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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 04:18 PM
  #31  
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From: Coldwater Mi.
Motown, with a handle like that you must be from Detroit ? Maybe not , but I'm about 90 miles due west .
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 04:22 PM
  #32  
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Haven't done mine yet but have been reading various processes over the last year and it seems the problem is carbon on the plug. I only have 40,000 miles on my 04 so not in a hurry. Has anyone tried injecting water into the engine to clean out the combustion chambers. I'm changing a headgasket on another engine and noticed that when the water gets into the cylinder it cleans all the carbon and deposits. And when I thought about it everyone I ever changed looked the same, nice and clean where the leak was. BTW I have not found an additive that cleans as well as water in the combustion chamber.

Do the Champions come in the right heat range?
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 04:35 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by digger52
Motown, with a handle like that you must be from Detroit ? Maybe not , but I'm about 90 miles due west .

I'm up in Rochester Hills, I've been thru your way quite a bit, Going to GM's Ft. Wayne assembly & H2 Hummer plant.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 05:19 PM
  #34  
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SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!! got all the ceramic out (i think) i dont hear any noise, even though its hard to hear because of the injectors ticking, but so far its running smooth. goin for a test drive now........
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 06:24 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by digger52
I haven't had any faith in Champion since they moved to Mexico. I wonder if NGK makes a plug that will fit ?
The champions have been in my truck since summer now...and I drive ALOT...couldn't tell the difference from stock...and now I have nothing to worry about....


NGK does not make a plug to fit
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 07:28 PM
  #36  
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good for you g-dog, lets hope you got it all, still your story scared this S**t out of me as I haven't done mine yet.



"I ran Marvel Mystry Oil in the gas"


What's marvel mystry oil?
 

Last edited by dirtbill; Jan 4, 2009 at 07:35 PM. Reason: added to post
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 09:22 PM
  #37  
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Marvel Mystery oil is a oil cleaner, fuel system cleaner

does quite a few things. I personally wouldn't run it in these engines...but I'm glad it worked without causing an issue.

I used to run it all the time in my Carb'd vehicles. It acts sorta like kerosene in the oil. Thins it out and eats up the varnish/sludge. In the gas is does something similar with carbon build-ups.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 10:41 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by dirtbill
good for you g-dog, lets hope you got it all, still your story scared this S**t out of me as I haven't done mine yet.



"I ran Marvel Mystry Oil in the gas"


What's marvel mystry oil?
It has mint oil in it, which is known to disolve/soften carbon. You add 4oz per 10 gallons of gas. I put the ratio a little higher, prior to doing my plugs. You can go to their web site and read up on it. Contrary to what has been said it won't hurt anything, if our fuel systems can handle some ethanol in the gas, they can surely handle Marvel Mystery Oil.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:02 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by motown
Contrary to what has been said it won't hurt anything, if our fuel systems can handle some ethanol in the gas, they can surely handle Marvel Mystery Oil.
some fuel systems can handle ethanol gas. the FFV trucks. normal trucks don't have the fuel pump and rubber seals to handle ethanol gas.

10% blends are diluted enough to prevent harm, but higher concentrations can/will eat your seals.


btw, Ford specifically says to not use fuel/injector cleaners. Modern vehicles are extremely sensitive machines, and truth be told, the gas of today is of pretty good quality usually.


I'm glad the Marvels didn't mess with your truck, but I recommend you be very wary with it. I've used that stuff to clean out a few 100,000+ mile engines and it's some hardcore stuff.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 10:40 AM
  #40  
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I hve been readin these posts, question for who can answer. For either the homebuilt or store bought tools, will the ceramic sometime come out first as in the one homebuilt where the guy appears to use CA to glue the pin hole closed or is it just best to tap the ceramic in a little and try to grab the sidewalls as it seems that is what the store bought tools do? I have 2 broken in 1 with the core still in so gotta chip some out and get some looong needle nose pliers.

2d question what is the brand of antisieze you guys have been using? Ive got the permatex in the pint jar type will it work?

Thank Hank
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 01:01 PM
  #41  
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Hank,,,,what brand plugs are you switching to???? If they're one piece plugs (either champion or brisk) no anti-sieze is needed.....if they're other brands, a high temp anti-sieze will work
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 01:25 PM
  #42  
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OK I just spoke with the dealer, $110 hr to pull the 2 broken ones estimate 4 hrs(??). They also recommended locktite 638 antisieze. He also said stay away from champions but that was expected.

As to what we bought I will have to go down to the shed and see if they were autolite or motorcraft. I think they were the autolites.

I was wondereing if ther would be any benefit to cleaning bores after pulling the plugs, like with a shotgun 20 ga or 45 cal brush then adding the antisieze? Not working today as I hurt my lower back so cant move around much so have time to actually think about off the wall stuff!
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 01:41 PM
  #43  
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From: Carson Valley, Nevada
Originally Posted by Hank85713
I was wondereing if ther would be any benefit to cleaning bores after pulling the plugs, like with a shotgun 20 ga or 45 cal brush then adding the antisieze? .....
I absolutely agree it would be a good idea to clean the bore as you described. Follow the brush with a dry cloth probe-like setup to somehow wipe the bore clean after scrubbing.

When I was installing my last plug, I pulled the plug back out to check the gap and it was covered with dissolved black carbon goo smeared in with the antisieze I'd just applied. I didn't have the right brushes/swabs to clean it out properly and was too tired at this point to go track some down. I just finished up and vowed to pull them in another 30k miles and clean it up right. That is, assuming those Champions last that long.......

My guess is the residue left in the bore will harden up over time and just add to the carbon build-up that happens naturally.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 02:20 PM
  #44  
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I'm wondering how long the antiseize is good for. If suppose, you go back to the 2 part plugs, would you have to pull them every 20, 30, or 40 thousand miles to make sure they haven't welded themselves back in place. I have a 2008 Screw but according to the COP's and the part numbers it has the old style plugs. the truck has 17,000 miles and my plan was to pull the plugs this spring at 20,000 or so miles, and do the antiseize treatment. Damn it, the simplest remedy would be for Motorcraft/Autolite to make a 1 piece plug. But I guess that would too much like right!

HYPO
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 03:17 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by HYPO
Damn it, the simplest remedy would be for Motorcraft/Autolite to make a 1 piece plug. But I guess that would too much like right!

HYPO
I'm tellin ya...i can't tell the difference between the way it ran on the stock plugs and the champions....the champions are platinum plugs and they say they're good for 100,000 miles just like the stock ones.....it really would be much easier than anti-siezing your motorcraft ones and worrying about it another 30K miles down the road
 
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