I am new to the site and to diesels. I have an 03 F250 7.3L. I am going to install new injector o-rings in the morning. I was just curious if there is a how to guide with pics anywhere on here. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

 

Roadside Help Network Hase A Good Writup Good Luck.

 

Welcome to FTE. Tell us how much of the procedure you understand, and we'll fill in the blanks.

Do you know how to get the valve covers off? How to get the injectors out? How to evacuate the oil out of the cylinder?

 

where do I find this roadside help network?

 

No, no, and no. I assume the valve covers are similar to gas engines? Their are 2 drain plugs but not sure where or if this is correct. then one bolt holds the injector in.Remove it and pry the injector out and then just replace the orings and put them back???????????

 

www.roadsidenetwork.info

 

link didn't work

 

When you remove the injectors some oil / fuel will enter the cylinder. If you don't suck this fluid out you will cause a hydraulic lock and bend / break piston rods when you try to start it. I'm sure someone will chime in with a good procedure link, but don't do it until you get all of the info.

Welcome to FTE, you found a great site!

 

I am going to get up early in the morning and do this so wish me luck. I will check this before I go out. About how long will this take?

 

If you have an 2003 I pretty curious as to why you are replacing your injector O rings. Are you getting blue smoke or have oil residue in you fuel bowl? You may want to do a little more homework before you dig in. I have heard techs can do it in a few hours but if you have never done injectors it would probably be an all day project. Here is a pretty good write-up. PowerStroke repairs

 

OK, yes removing the valve covers is the same as a gasser except we have lots of junk in the way. You'll have to remove the IC tubes (big aluminum tubes with rubber boots on the end) first. Loosen the clamps on the boots and remove the IC tubes. The passenger side you'll need to disconnect the MAP hose and unscrew the oil fill tube (what the oil cap screws onto) first. Just unscrew the tube. You'll need a swivel adapter for a couple of bolts by the AC, tha back bolt needs a 3" extension to get at it, the 2 plastic clips that hold the heater core hoses just pull straight off the stud, remove the nut off the dipstick tube bracket, then remove the stud.

On the drivers side, pull the IC tube and the intake tube going to the turbo. There's a small 90 deg hose going to the intake tube coming off the valve cover. Remove one of the clamp bands (you can use a hose clamp to put it back on), unscrew the long bolt through the middle of the box (42 pin connector), cuss the engineer that put the back bolt so far back under the firewall, then pull it off.

There are plugs in the oil rails you can remove, and a plug in the back of the head for the fuel rail that can be removed if you want to mimimize what drops into the cylinder. You'll need to remove the VC gaskets/wiring harness to see the oil plugs.

Unplug the injector, then remove the bolt from the oil spout on each injector and set the oil spout aside. The injector is held down by a plate with an upper and lower bolt. The upper bolt is not accesible unless you remove the injector solenoid. Remove the lower bolt and slide the plate up (towards center of engine), then pry the injector out. Make sure to lube the o-rings before installing them on the injectors.

Now it's time to grab a breaker bar and turn the engine over by hand to shoot out oil that may have drained into the cylinders. Place rags over the holes or lay the valve covers back in place. Do that a few times, then install the injectors. They will take a few good taps to help them seat all the way down. Install the bolts and torque to 120 in-lbs. Now remove the glow plugs, and if you're **** like me, unplug the CPS and pull the IDM fuse. If you're not ****, just do one of these. With the glow plugs removed, get in the truck and crank the engine for 5 - 10 seconds several times. Place rags over the holes or lay the valve covers back in place. This should evacuate the remaining oil out of the cylinders to prevent hydrolock.

While you're in there, go ahead and re-torque the rocker arm pedestal bolts to 20 ft-lbs. Also ohm your glow plugs and make sure they don't need to be replaced while they're out. Then just put everything back together, plug in the CPS & replace the IDM fuse. The engine will run rough for about 30 miles while you purge the air out of the oil rails, but it will smooth out.

Rocker arm bolts circled in Red. Lower injector hold down bolt circled in blue.

 

Link -> Roadside Help Network - 7.3 RHN Home

 

Chris got you covered. He helped me with my injector change out. He knows how to do this. I was lucky enough to have Chris and Roland help with mine. . Very important to have the oil out of the cylinders before trying to crank it.

 

I figured it out. I am lucky enough to have a diesel shop literally across the road. I just took it over there for a quick scan and 2 injectors needed to be rebuilt. That was my only problem. I left it there and will get it back next Friday. Thanks for all your help. I guess I need to buy a scanner that works on this truck.