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Just remove the bolt that holds each coil on, and twist the coil around until there is enough clearance to pull it up and out. The plug boots may be stuck in the plug bores, and they might separate from the coils--no problem--just grab them with something and twist and pull them out. Blow out the holes with compressed air--you will be surprised what is usually in there--leaves and other junk. Remove the plugs--hopefully they will come out--115,000 miles is a long time for them to be in there. With that much mileage, you might need new coil boots. If you do replace them, push the new boots onto the coils, and then coat the plug hole of the boot with silicone grease--this will keep them from sticking to the plugs. Also, coat the surface of the boot that contacts the plug well--that will keep them from sticking to the engine. Properly gap the new plugs and then coat the new spark plug threads with anti-sieze grease. Install them and torque them to 11 foot pounds. Reinstall the coils and the job is done. Make sure that the engine is no warmer than cool to the touch when you do this. Let us know how it goes.
Just remove the bolt that holds each coil on, and twist the coil around until there is enough clearance to pull it up and out. The plug boots may be stuck in the plug bores, and they might separate from the coils--no problem--just grab them with something and twist and pull them out. Blow out the holes with compressed air--you will be surprised what is usually in there--leaves and other junk. Remove the plugs--hopefully they will come out--115,000 miles is a long time for them to be in there. With that much mileage, you might need new coil boots. If you do replace them, push the new boots onto the coils, and then coat the plug hole of the boot with silicone grease--this will keep them from sticking to the plugs. Also, coat the surface of the boot that contacts the plug well--that will keep them from sticking to the engine. Properly gap the new plugs and then coat the new spark plug threads with anti-sieze grease. Install them and torque them to 11 foot pounds. Reinstall the coils and the job is done. Make sure that the engine is no warmer than cool to the touch when you do this. Let us know how it goes.
RON
Great thanks for the info, will be doing this tomorrow as long as the weather is ok, will post the results.
Yeah you can sneak them out around the fuel rail. Just be careful pulling the plugs and ESPECIALLY putting them back in as the 4.6 have only 4 threads in the head and are very prone to problems. They can be more tricky to start then a normal plug. Bue sure to put some anti sieze on the plugs and dont over tighten them. If the plugs are carbon tracked at all be sure to replace the boots as posted above.
I found that when removing plugs with high mileage there is a way to minimize risk to the threads. I use a breaker bar to break the plug loose. Then I move in 1/8 turn loose then move back tight. Then loosen a bit more then tighten. This loosen and tighten with each loosen being a bit more until the plug is free will help to prevent damage and pulling out the thread from the aluminum. Yes use never seize of some brand prior to installation of the new plugs.
everyone's tip and tricks were helpful, job is done and it runs great. For that many miles they were not too difficult to take out. All the boots were in good shape so I did not replace them.
Since I clean the motor off there were only a couple that were really dirty so that helped too.
All the old plugs were a nice white so they were doing their job and the motor is in good shape so that should be it for another 100,000.
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