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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 06:49 PM
  #16  
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From: Ashland City, TN
The bushing is right under the dash where the clutch pedal connects to the master cylinder to push the piston.


Just start out and instead of pushing the clutch in while moving to shift, just pop it out of gear with no throttle and try pushing a little bit into the next gear. When the RPM's are correct, the syncro's will allow you to shift into gear.

So make sure you get up enough speed to get it into gear, you can't just go idle and try and get into second.
I'm sure somebody else on here would know some shift points. I dont know any diesel shift points, let alone zf5 shift points, cause I got mee's a gasser with an m5od.
I know in a gasser zf5 you can go as fast as 15 in first. *shrugs*

Basically, lets put it this way, try driving normal but dont use the clutch to shift, just pull it out and push to the next gear.
When you go to shift to third, if it grinds, then your syncro is going bad.

Did i miss aynthing?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 06:51 PM
  #17  
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But say it shifts without a clutch into third, does that mean the syncro is good or bad?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 06:53 PM
  #18  
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From: Ashland City, TN
It will shift either way if you push hard enough, but it will grind pretty bad if the syncro is going bad.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 06:57 PM
  #19  
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Ok, I will try it in the morning when I get the truck. Any ideas on the idle?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 07:06 PM
  #20  
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you dont want to just pull back and wait for it to pop into gear, it will grind if you do that.
from the questions i take it you have not shifted clutchless before so i may reccomned that you not try it. especially if you already have some tranny issues. based soley on the fact that you only have shifting issues with 3rd theni am saying that the 3rd gear teeth,the brass gear, or the aluminum syncro are wore out. all work together to syncronize the shift.

its hard to explain how to properly and smoothly shift clutchless. much easier to show you how. basicly you let off the throttle and pull it out of gear, you place it in the next gear when the engine rpm reaches the speed it would have stopped at had you shifted with the clutch and already been in the next gear...... that sounds confusing to me and i just typed it...lol
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 07:08 PM
  #21  
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No, I have done it, just didnt know the difference between if it goes in smooth or not. If it grinds when the engine is suppose to shift, it prob is the syncro, that is what I am getting out of it
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 07:34 PM
  #22  
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if it shifts smooth then the syncro is bad.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 07:56 PM
  #23  
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Ok, now im confused. coonhunterjoe said if it shifts smooth w/o the clutch the syncro is bad, Talyn says if it grinds into gear w/o the clutch then the syncro is bad... Which one is it
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 08:02 PM
  #24  
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From: Belair md
the idea is to not use the syncro during the clutchless shift. that way you eliminate it as a problem. if you can shift the tranny without using the syncro and it doesnt grind then you know the syncro is bad.

but anyway you look at it your 3rd gear syncro is messed up since that is the only gear it does it in. when was teh last fluid change? you may want to step up to some thicker fluid to prolong the life
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 08:04 PM
  #25  
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The mechanic drained it today, but only about 4 quarts drained..We put the sythentic it called for but I should of put some lucas in it or something...
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 08:05 PM
  #26  
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they dont hod a whole lot. may want to look at an additive if you dont want to overhaul it right now.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 08:30 PM
  #27  
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It only grinds about every 10 shifts into third, the clutchless shift might just be one of those times where it shifts fine. I understand what you are saying though.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 08:34 PM
  #28  
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Whats your additive of choice? Still a bit confused, sounds like you and Talyn are saying different things, you are saying if it does not grind w/o the clutch then its the syncro, Talyn said if it grinds without the clutch then its the syncro
 
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 12:07 AM
  #29  
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From: Ashland City, TN
Originally Posted by c00nhunterjoe
if it shifts smooth then the syncro is bad.
Coon, are you saying all my syncro's are bad then?


The syncro is one of the devices that helps keep you from poping it into gear at an incorrect time as well, i believe. . well, it doesn't stop the slam method. haha. right coon? :P


There are a few theories to how to shift clutchlessly, but I'm not sure how easy or hard it is on a diesel 5 speed, cause the RPM's work differently then a gas truck. I got 5.5grand to work with, PSD's rev high, but i doubt your ever going much over 2200 rpm's, if that even before your shifting. I'm not even in my power band at 2200.

Also, I would find it quite odd that 3rd would be going bad before second gear, unless the truck always was started in second, and the PO always shifted between 2nd and 3rd in the city. Cause first is pretty short for city driving on a ZF.
I'd think on a diesel you could stick it in 3rd and be okay for slow and go city driving. I can on my gasser with 1/2 the HP and 1/4 the tq.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 12:08 AM
  #30  
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From: Ashland City, TN
Originally Posted by mattman1984
Whats your additive of choice? Still a bit confused, sounds like you and Talyn are saying different things, you are saying if it does not grind w/o the clutch then its the syncro, Talyn said if it grinds without the clutch then its the syncro
After I read about the bad things lucas can do, i wont use lucas at all anymore.
I'm not into putting additives into transmission either.
I put additives in my engine oil, but I have seals going bad, and they help a little bit.
I loose a qt every 2 weeks instead of one sorta deal.
 
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