Steering box adjustment bolt
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,996
Likes: 9
From: Pittsburgh,Pa.
Hi Primered1 and welcome. Did you adjust the box to try to correct your problem or did it have too much play to begin with? Another question is were you having problems with oversteering before you did the swap?
New User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Bothell, WA.
Hi and Thanks. Yes, When I took it on it's 1st drive there was play in the wheel. 3" or so. I loosened the nut and tightened the screw, (alot) It took out the play but created the Tight problem. But the next test drive is when I noticed the tightening when I put my foot in it a little. so I loosened the belt, which WAS to tight. Is the Screw (stud, Bolt) adjuster a centering adjuster? and should I try loosening it? I'm at whits end. The truck I took all the parts from drove like a dream. Steering wise, and I had very little problem doing the switch. All hand tools, in my driveway, about 8 hours.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,996
Likes: 9
From: Pittsburgh,Pa.
The fact that you had to tighten the screw is a bit worrysome to begin with. Usually by the time a steering box requires adjustment it's worn to the point it needs rebuilt. It sounds like you've adjusted it too far and it's binding. You might try backing the adjustment off in say 1/2 turn increments and doing a quick road test each time. Drive belts have to be adjusted correctly however the only way one could contribute to a p/s problem is if it were too loose and slipping. If the belt slips the pump can't develop enough pressure to meet the requirements of the system. Have you checked the steering linkage for worn/damaged parts? A worn out drag link ( long expensive tie rod) can cause a lot of play in the steering wheel.
New User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Bothell, WA.
I'll give that a try tomorrow. No belt slip that I can tell, and tie rods, ball joints, king pins etc. are all fresh. I think You may have hit the nail on the head. Binding would account for the tightening and also every once in a while the pump sounds like a ford pump does (lol) but seems more to come from stress than age. (No jittering in the wheel like a worn out or going out pump.) just the noise. I really have to thank you for the help. I'll let you know tomorrow how things turn out. (since it's not SUPPOSED to rain). Again, Thank You and Now that I've found this site, I'll be on here often. Now if I could just figure out how to download my pictures.. lol Any hint?? lol Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Are you one of them "stockade lawyers" that I heard about?
Nope. Just common sense tells me if it is a bad part i take it back and get a good part, not bitch about it behind a
keyboard.
You got something against Mexicans?
Nope, a Mex rebuild is place new crank and rod bearings and rings in a tired old mill. I guess i spent to much time near NYC. Did you go to the Tamale
Festival? I did.
Somehow I don't think you understand the problem. :/
-More wear- won't fix the problem.
That won't fix the problem either.
BeenThereTriedThat.
They won't do anymore to them than the outfit in Phoenix (Phoenix isn't
in Mexico BTW(coulda fooled me last time i was in the hood) did to them. An outfit that fixes them up by line boring
them and inserting "realbearings" will say so up front, brag on it and
charge you extra money for their extra effort.
So Based on your single bad experience all rebuilds are bad?
Again i would not accept this for any reason. The re builder is responsible to provide a unit to OEM spec. That is akin to getting a less than full set of Hastings rings in the box and in stead of taking it back you leave out the missing oil rings. Yes there are lots of shoddy shops out there, but as a consumer it does not mean you have to accept it.
Yeah but...
...what lower column bearing?
This one, it is hard to see but it is the same bearing as the upper aluminum TS housing and uses the steel tapers and a collar to keep everything together for 65 to 72
<a href="http://s368.photobucket.com/albums/oo125/Garbz85306/?action=view¤t=PC060324.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i368.photobucket.com/albums/oo125/Garbz85306/th_PC060324.jpg" border="0" alt="Column guide" ></a>
Nope. Just common sense tells me if it is a bad part i take it back and get a good part, not bitch about it behind a
keyboard.You got something against Mexicans?
Nope, a Mex rebuild is place new crank and rod bearings and rings in a tired old mill. I guess i spent to much time near NYC. Did you go to the Tamale
Festival? I did.Somehow I don't think you understand the problem. :/
-More wear- won't fix the problem.
That won't fix the problem either.
BeenThereTriedThat.
They won't do anymore to them than the outfit in Phoenix (Phoenix isn't
in Mexico BTW
(coulda fooled me last time i was in the hood) did to them. An outfit that fixes them up by line boring them and inserting "real
bearings" will say so up front, brag on it and charge you extra money for their extra effort.
So Based on your single bad experience all rebuilds are bad?
Again i would not accept this for any reason. The re builder is responsible to provide a unit to OEM spec. That is akin to getting a less than full set of Hastings rings in the box and in stead of taking it back you leave out the missing oil rings. Yes there are lots of shoddy shops out there, but as a consumer it does not mean you have to accept it. Yeah but...
...what lower column bearing?
This one, it is hard to see but it is the same bearing as the upper aluminum TS housing and uses the steel tapers and a collar to keep everything together for 65 to 72
<a href="http://s368.photobucket.com/albums/oo125/Garbz85306/?action=view¤t=PC060324.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i368.photobucket.com/albums/oo125/Garbz85306/th_PC060324.jpg" border="0" alt="Column guide" ></a>
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