Old problem come back, problem start and run
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
From: Port Coquitlam, BC Canada
Old problem come back, problem start and run
So a long time back I posted my 1977 F-250 super cab, electronic ignition, 400CI, C6 tranny, 2 whl drive long box truck was giving me problems, I run dual fuel, Gas and propane, mostly propane, lately I have noticed it running pretty damn fast, but the major thing is that I can start it right up most days, but today on the way to work it quit three times, and each time it quit had a problem starting it, and it is doing again what I posted about in the past, when you turn key to start it cranks, but it is not till the key goes back that it seems to jump like it is trying to run, and if you hold the key and just run it from run to start a bit and do it back and forth you can hear it doing what I call bumping like it is trying to fire up and the engine is trying to run, I have changed the ignition coil, the ignition switch and the relay on the fender as was suggested, but the problem seems to not have gone away.
Any ideas?
maybe it is getting a feed from somewhere?
I do have a fifth wheel, I wired up for that some time in 1999, which meant hooking up an electric brake controller and the wiring for the plug in, would that have caused a problem to appear?
Any ideas?
maybe it is getting a feed from somewhere?
I do have a fifth wheel, I wired up for that some time in 1999, which meant hooking up an electric brake controller and the wiring for the plug in, would that have caused a problem to appear?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 796
Likes: 1
From: Minnesota
I think it is your ignition box itself. I had this happen before where it only starts in start or run position. Take the box off of the fenderwell and look at the goey stuff on the bottom. I bet its really soft from getting hot. I would replace it if it was mine.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 48
From: Middle TN
Ignition box would be my next guess also. I would make sure to check the fire at the plugs the next time it quits.
It sounds like an ignition switch or ground but if you have replaced it, I just don't see it as being the problem.
It sounds like an ignition switch or ground but if you have replaced it, I just don't see it as being the problem.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
The usual 3 step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts almost immediately.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts in an hour or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats, burns out. Now the engine will not restart.
Testing modules off the vehicle usually doesn't work as they only quit working when they overheat.
If replacing the module, do not forget there's another part that gives the off the same symptons of a failing ignition module...this:
D4PZ12A112A .. Stator aka Pickup Coil, mounts inside the dizzy (Motorcraft DU1A)
Fits: ALL 1974/79 V8 cars and trucks (exc. 1979 LTD's with EEC).
Before installing the new module, use some flat washers to space it further away from the fender apron.
Engine heat radiating from the left exhaust manifold is the mortal enemy of these modules. The more airflow around it...the better.
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts almost immediately.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts in an hour or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats, burns out. Now the engine will not restart.
Testing modules off the vehicle usually doesn't work as they only quit working when they overheat.
If replacing the module, do not forget there's another part that gives the off the same symptons of a failing ignition module...this:
D4PZ12A112A .. Stator aka Pickup Coil, mounts inside the dizzy (Motorcraft DU1A)
Fits: ALL 1974/79 V8 cars and trucks (exc. 1979 LTD's with EEC).
Before installing the new module, use some flat washers to space it further away from the fender apron.
Engine heat radiating from the left exhaust manifold is the mortal enemy of these modules. The more airflow around it...the better.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
Make sure your battery and cables are good.
Make sure your battery does not drop below 9.6 volts when cranking and make sure the battery is charging.
Also check for voltage drops across the battery cables.
If it does turn out to be the Ignition Module, toss it in the garbage and buy and install an MSD Street Fire ignition module, then throw away the oil filled coil and install a TFI coil out of an 89 or 90 5.0 litre F150.
Re-gap your spark plugs to .52 to .55 and don't forget to remove the resistor from the positive side of the coil wiring.
Now with good 8.5 ignition wires and a performance cap and rotor get ready for better performance and fuel economy.
Timing should stay at stock setting.
Just remember good electrical connections are the key to problem free driving.
Rick.
Also check for voltage drops across the battery cables.
If it does turn out to be the Ignition Module, toss it in the garbage and buy and install an MSD Street Fire ignition module, then throw away the oil filled coil and install a TFI coil out of an 89 or 90 5.0 litre F150.
Re-gap your spark plugs to .52 to .55 and don't forget to remove the resistor from the positive side of the coil wiring.
Now with good 8.5 ignition wires and a performance cap and rotor get ready for better performance and fuel economy.
Timing should stay at stock setting.
Just remember good electrical connections are the key to problem free driving.
Rick.
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