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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Axles, differentials

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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 10:00 AM
  #16  
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From: Blackwater, VA
Originally Posted by powerstroked162
Axle swaps arent that difficult. You'll have fun with it

Cowboy Steve
this assumes that one has tools and a clue lol...or at least a good set of directions to follow

Originally Posted by c00nhunterjoe
dont forget she is turning 35 inch tires, go with the 4.10's.
as for the valley, get a can or 2 of engine degreaser and go to town in the valley spraying everything, then just stick the garden hose in there and it will all run out the drain in the back of the motor
35s only until i get new ones, then prolly 36s or 37s...you have a rear laying around right?
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 10:23 AM
  #17  
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[quote=MissIndependent;6946372]lol...I borrow all my dad's stuff, and I have this feeling he wouldn't be impressed if/when he found out I used his shop vac on diesel fuel. the poor man is still trying to figure out where he went wrong with me...


I don't think he went wrong with you, I think its awesome.
I have 4:10s in my 94 with 35s would not have it any other way. On the other hand my 97 has 3:55 with about 32s and you have to run about 90 mph to get the best mileage and power. It has a 4" lift and 35s in its future so it will get 4:10s soon
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 11:29 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by MissIndependent
this assumes that one has tools and a clue lol...or at least a good set of directions to follow
I suppose.....

Cowboy Steve
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 03:57 PM
  #19  
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I didn't figure in the 35's, and if your going bigger in the future then 4.10's Biggest I've ran w/3.55's is 33's on my old 79 and it did well but kinda hard to compare to the diesel.

One thing to conisider is towing with a lot of lift and big tires, I know lots do it but I've never been a big fan of big drop hitches

Anyhow back to the axle swap It's not hard to do, just don't cut corners. Swap time is the time for brake rebuilds, seals, brake lines, U bolts, U joints....$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 04:51 PM
  #20  
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i have a front axle, no rear's.

as for drop hitch's i use a 6 inch drop on my truck with a 6 inch lift and 35's. it gets the job done but an 8 inch would be perfect, so 4 inch lift and 35's the 6 inch drop should be fine.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 02:12 PM
  #21  
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ok, 4.10s is on the official list lol. how soon i can't say, because i think i can pick up a replacement diff for less than $100 and my priority right this minute is to restore 4wd

while we're on the subject...i more or less understand what a gear ratio is, but what does it mean in practical terms, or what makes one better than the other?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 02:24 PM
  #22  
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A ratio of 3.55 (numerically lower) means more top end speed less bottom end power, a 4.56 (numerically higher) means more off the line power but less top end speed. That is why when you start going with bigger tires you should install a lower gear ratio (numerically higher) to keep your low end power. 4.56 means just over 4 1/2 rotations of the drive shaft to one rotation of the rear axles
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 06:37 PM
  #23  
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From: Blackwater, VA
so just for my enlightenment...my stock axles would be a TTB Dana 50 in front and...10.25" Ford rear?
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 06:41 PM
  #24  
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From: Blackwater, VA
Originally Posted by RubberDuck
When I'm working on something that makes a mess i the valley, I just break out the shop vac and the maker size extensions. Just vac it out of there. It's not like gas where you would have a fire hazard with the vac motor. It will ignite, but not in the shop vac.
my dad is not convinced
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 06:46 PM
  #25  
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If you are referring to the 96 F250, yes it *should* be, They call that rear end a Sterling.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 08:04 PM
  #26  
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I have 4.10's with 30 inch tires and I hate it. At 70 MPH my RPMs are just above 2500 and the red-line is not much higher than that. It seems like the engine is screaming at those RPMs and I am sure it sucks up the fuel faster. I am sure I have enough low end power to pull a house up a cliff but I don't do any heavy towing so sooner or later I am going to get bigger tires or ditch the 4.10. I guess it all boils down to what you plan on doing with the truck.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 08:19 PM
  #27  
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With 30" tires you probable wish you had something like 3.73 gears but she is running 35s like I am and most of the time 4.10s are just right, but there has been a few times 4.30s or even 4.56 gears would have been best.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 07:57 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 1dieselman
If you are referring to the 96 F250, yes it *should* be, They call that rear end a Sterling.
yeah... "*should*"?? i'm her third owner, but to my knowledge no one's messed with anything but the suspension lift. i could always track the other two down and make sure i guess...

any reason not to keep that kind of axle and just upgrade to 4.10s?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 08:14 AM
  #29  
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It all depends on what you plan to do with the truck. If you are just doing light 4 wheeling the 50 will be fine, but if you going to be doing any serious 4 wheeling, mud bogging, sled pulling,etc its time to consider swapping in a dana 60 straight axle. The 50 can handle some abuse but needs to have an eye kept on it to make sure nothing gets loose or bends.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 08:47 PM
  #30  
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been offered a deal on a set of 4.10 gears out of a sterling rear on a 94 IDI. he's willing to put them in but hasn't done it too many times...i might be able to get other local help with that though. axle's the same even though its an IDI, yes? is that all i'd need? (i really have absolutely noooo idea what i'm getting myself into lol)

yep, light wheeling only for her, right now i ride shotgun for stuff like rock crawling...in a real Hummer the last trip...fun times!
 
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