Stupid question...
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: VA
Stupid question...
Is there anyway to narrow down which hub or even which o-ring/seal is screwing up the ESOF system?
Found out its not working right for the first time ever! Stuck over the weekend and had to get out in the muck and lock em in manually. RF hub didnt want to turn so I will have to take a look at guzzles site to do all that jazz!
I just wanted to know if there was a way to not had to take both hubs apart to troubleshoot.
If the vacuum system is working properly will it engage the hubs independently or is the system run off a single line where if the vacuum is broken then both hubs wont engage?
Found out its not working right for the first time ever! Stuck over the weekend and had to get out in the muck and lock em in manually. RF hub didnt want to turn so I will have to take a look at guzzles site to do all that jazz!
I just wanted to know if there was a way to not had to take both hubs apart to troubleshoot.
If the vacuum system is working properly will it engage the hubs independently or is the system run off a single line where if the vacuum is broken then both hubs wont engage?
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Near DC
Not a stupid question, lots of ppl have the same problem here...
If you have a break in the hose, neither should engage. You have only defrost when 4X4 engaged, right?
Greater chance of a rubber line being cracked than a problem at the hub.
Follow the lines around and inspect. Prolly need replacing after 8 years anyway...
You can cap the system at the right fender (each separately at the split) and manually lock one then the other. You can leave it capped and just go manual and still have the heater. If you intend to remove the hubs, might want to put in the Warn manual locks. I decided that is what I am going to do. Manually locked, you know they're in!
If you have a break in the hose, neither should engage. You have only defrost when 4X4 engaged, right?
Greater chance of a rubber line being cracked than a problem at the hub.
Follow the lines around and inspect. Prolly need replacing after 8 years anyway...
You can cap the system at the right fender (each separately at the split) and manually lock one then the other. You can leave it capped and just go manual and still have the heater. If you intend to remove the hubs, might want to put in the Warn manual locks. I decided that is what I am going to do. Manually locked, you know they're in!
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: VA
Ill be completely honest, I didnt even have my air on when this happened! Everyone was leaving so quickly I just wanted to engage them and get out so I kno I would be getting home! I will definitely follow the lines tomorrow after work. I dont think Im willing to give up on the ESOF on the 1st sign of trouble just yet! Maybe if it happens 2 or 3 more times after I pull em apart and try to fix em Ill get fed up and spring for the manuals! I hope its just a break in the hose. Are there 2 outputs from the pump or just 1 that "Ys" off to the hubs?
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Near DC
Saw these posted:
Pics to easily pull the locks:
Auto to Manual Lockout Hub Conversion pictures from cars photos on webshots
Vacuum location on fender well: (toward the bottom)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...al-hubs-2.html
Pics to easily pull the locks:
Auto to Manual Lockout Hub Conversion pictures from cars photos on webshots
Vacuum location on fender well: (toward the bottom)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...al-hubs-2.html
Hook it, I'll pull it.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,037
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From: Grand Lake, La.
The vacuum goes from the pump, to the holding tank, to the solenoid, then to the hubs. You can turn the 4x4 switch on and if one hub is not locking, you should be able to turn one or both of the front axles by hand. Might need a long screwdriver to get them turning. Have your heater on to front vents, turn the 4x4 switch to 4x4 and see if the air defaults to defrost. If it does, check for broke vacuum line.
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Postmaster
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From: VA
I have no vacuum leak...so it seems im in for a little bit more work. Im out trying to take my drivers side autohub off and it wont move! Ive taken the retaining clip off and I cant pull it/wiggle it off to save my life!
Anyone got any tricks or hints?! Its currently in the middle of lock and auto...would that have anything to do with it?! It would go either way...kinda stuck!
Anyone got any tricks or hints?! Its currently in the middle of lock and auto...would that have anything to do with it?! It would go either way...kinda stuck!
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Post Fiend
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From: Carhenge
I have no vacuum leak...so it seems im in for a little bit more work. Im out trying to take my drivers side autohub off and it wont move! Ive taken the retaining clip off and I cant pull it/wiggle it off to save my life!
Anyone got any tricks or hints?! Its currently in the middle of lock and auto...would that have anything to do with it?! It would go either way...kinda stuck!
Anyone got any tricks or hints?! Its currently in the middle of lock and auto...would that have anything to do with it?! It would go either way...kinda stuck!
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Parker, CO
I had to use some PB blaster to get my hubs out the first time. You could also try WD-40. I also had to used a rubber mallet. Once you get them out use white grease before you put them back in.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Henderson, NV
I have no vacuum leak...so it seems im in for a little bit more work. Im out trying to take my drivers side autohub off and it wont move! Ive taken the retaining clip off and I cant pull it/wiggle it off to save my life!
Anyone got any tricks or hints?! Its currently in the middle of lock and auto...would that have anything to do with it?! It would go either way...kinda stuck!
Anyone got any tricks or hints?! Its currently in the middle of lock and auto...would that have anything to do with it?! It would go either way...kinda stuck!
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: VA
Well I dont have a leak from pump to hub but neither one of the hubs lock so that scares me. No telling which O-ring or seal is going bad. I do like your idea of the air in the nipple. I will definitely try that and see if I can hear anything! Id lathered it in PB but didnt want to hit it until I asked yall! Ill be back in a little bit!
Thanks!
Thanks!
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Henderson, NV
Yes, I forgot to mention that the positive air pressure should not be any higher than 20 psi or the rubber diaphragm in the hubs are likely to rupture.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: VA
I figured it shouldnt be a lot of pressure but I didnt do that method anyways. I did the rubber mallet.
Heres what the situation is...
Drivers side selector switch (auto/manual) doesnt move but 1/2 inch. I want to replace that. But when in Auto neither hub engages. I took the vacuum line off while in 4x4 and finally got the vent to go thru defrost. Replaced it and shortly there after it came back thru the vent. That tells me Im good up until the hubs...correct?
I took the caliper, caliper mounting bracket and rotor off to get a little more familiar with the hub. I soaked everything in PB blaster and I dont have a 13/16 socket for some reason!
Inside the hub there are only 2 more o-rings right? Im just trying to get a better understanding out how this system works!
Heres what the situation is...
Drivers side selector switch (auto/manual) doesnt move but 1/2 inch. I want to replace that. But when in Auto neither hub engages. I took the vacuum line off while in 4x4 and finally got the vent to go thru defrost. Replaced it and shortly there after it came back thru the vent. That tells me Im good up until the hubs...correct?
I took the caliper, caliper mounting bracket and rotor off to get a little more familiar with the hub. I soaked everything in PB blaster and I dont have a 13/16 socket for some reason!
Inside the hub there are only 2 more o-rings right? Im just trying to get a better understanding out how this system works!