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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 07:51 PM
  #1  
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oil consumption

my 05 e450 v10 with 49.5k mi just recently started to use oil...before it might need a quart if that by 3k mi but that is when i would change the oil so i never had to add oil between oil changes...so somewhere after 45k mi it started to use oil because i added a quart before the 48k service and now at 49.5 i needed to add a quart again

a couple minor engine problems occurred before the 48k mi oil change service...first the tensioner pulley bearing seized and a vacuum hose became disconnected...when i added oil the first time i attributed that to the tensioner bearing and the engine working harder and the hose was fixed the same day...so now since its been fixed i wasnt expecting to have to add oil anymore...lastly, ive only used 5w20 semi synthetic motorcraft but i think this might have started at the same time when they switched to the newer bottles...did ford change the oil additives or something recently?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 12:13 AM
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Hmmm, not sure why it would be using 1qt/1.5K. Maybe it needs a cleaning? You could try an engine cleaner such as auto-rx, i've had great success with it, probably the best on the market.

Auto-Rx Engine Cleaner

Other than that, not sure. Maybe someone else can chime in.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 08:08 AM
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Did it overheat when the tensioner pulley bearing seized, if so how bad????

Any visable signs of an external oil leak???

How long do you suppose it ran with the vacuum line disconnected???? Which vacuum line was it????
I'm thinking along the lines of lean mixture & sucking in unfiltered air & seeing as how your in the midwest, is it dusty where you live, or operate????

Edit: Have you made any mods to the engine, or air intake system???

How is the PCV valve, has it been checked/changed lately????

Is 5W-20 specified for the way this engine is configured???

I read that Ford has recently divested itself of Motorcraft, but not that they've changed it's recipe.

Still if it's true that they've sold that end of the business, I'd sure begin to watch the VOA's & UOA on BITOG, to see if any untoward trends are up!!!!

Maybe consider having Blackstone Labs do a UOA.

A bunch more thoughts for pondering.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 09:41 AM
  #4  
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well the belt didnt break when it seized but the entire bearing blew apart and the pulley was trapped between the tensioner arm and was grinding into the timing cover

havent seen any oil leaks

the vacuum line was only diconnected for a day bc it was idling so terrible and it connected somewhere near the throttle body

everything is stock and new air filter at 45k

ive thought about checking the pcv but i think ill have to take the dog house off and seriously doubt thats the problem...never seen one go bad

5w20 recommended...interesting that they recently changed ownership

i think a UOA is in order at 51k service...can i get more info about Blackstone
 
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 11:05 AM
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Ok good feedback.

Seems it's always used a little oil betwen changes, but recently suddenly changed, so it's probably wise to look into it further & a UOL is a good beginning imo.

Blackstone is a site sponsor, just look in & click on their name in the left sidebar.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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A UOA is alway a good idea, but I'll second the Auto Rx recommendation.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 12:40 PM
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it should be as clean as a whistle inside...semi-synthethic 5w20 motorcraft every 3k mi
 
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 02:24 PM
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azfordf100man
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Originally Posted by someday
it should be as clean as a whistle inside...semi-synthethic 5w20 motorcraft every 3k mi
Should be pretty clean, but would only make things cleaner and possibly help with the consumption.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 07:54 AM
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Well lets see, always used about a qt in 3K miles, but suddenly jumped to one qt in 1.5K mles, so maybe the factory PCV valve was faulty from the get-go & has finally completely layed down!!!!

Or maybe the ring gap stagger wasn't right from the engine factory & if thats so, seems to me a cyl compression test, or cyl balence test may tattle on it.

Or maybe the rings never wore in properly, or one or more have cracked.
Again a compression or cyl balance test may tattle on that possibility.

Or seeing s how it's always used about a qt in 3K miles, maybe the ring lands are carboned up & the rings are sticking, if so the Auto-Rx might be helpful to soften & remove enough of the carbon to improve compression & cylinder oil sealing.

A bunch more thoughts for pondering.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 01:31 PM
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when it gets to 60k ill be changing the plugs so i wouldnt do a compression check till later this year...is a compression test the same as a cylinder balance test? its a work van so its very hard to find time to work on it, its driven everyday...i think for now ill just be adding oil and getting a UOA at 51k

i know first thing in the morning on real cold nights (near 0 degrees) it has a high pitched whine when it starts for a few seconds...the engine also has a rough idle that comes and goes...had it checked at the dealer a few times for it and they always said it was normal
 
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 03:08 PM
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A cyl balance & compression tests aren't the same thing.

With a good scantool hooked up to the diagnostic port, you & it can accomplish a cyl balance test right from drivers seat!!!!

The scantool will disable the fuel injector on each cyl & measure the RPM drop & any cyl that doesn't cause much rpm drop is suspect for compression, so you could use those results to go to & begin your detailed troubleshoot at the suspect cyl/s.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 03:59 PM
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i changed the oil last week and got an oil sample and all looks ok...im going to wait till the summer/fall to do the 60k mi service, compression test, and change the pcv/check the hoses...for now ill just keep adding about 2qts every 3k mi
 
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 07:21 PM
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Are you sure your putting the correct amount in at oil change time? You should not be using any at all, only 49.000 miles on motor. It should not even move on dip stick between changes.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 09:59 PM
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i put 6.5 qts to get it at the top of the range
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 10:07 AM
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Check the vac hose AND the fitting leading into the intake manifold. These can get clogged with carbon and in turn cause the engine to suck oil.
 
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