Front Driveshaft Removal
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Fleet Owner
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This is the shield I referred to that surrounds the front driveshaft and bolts to the transfer case.
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Joined: Nov 2017
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No that is not the one that allowed me to get the drive shaft out. I was able to unbolt this and it dropped right out. I could move the drive shaft around a little more but still didnt give me anymore room until I took the three bolts out of the heat shield around the muffler and slid it back and down. And i tried everything for over an hour before I took the muffler heat shield off. The next day it felt like I had done a thousand reps on the bench press the night before.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Near Alpena
WOW what a PITA that was. I had a squeaking sound whenever I switched out of 2H so I figured it had something to do with the front driveshaft. All I can say is clearance be dammed, cause there isn't any.
As it turned out, one of the u-joints had two cups rusted inside and the needle bearing were destroyed. Problem solved, now I'm off to do the rear driveshaft u-joints which will hopefully eliminate a highway speed vibration I'm getting. I hope the rear is easier to get out than the front was.
As it turned out, one of the u-joints had two cups rusted inside and the needle bearing were destroyed. Problem solved, now I'm off to do the rear driveshaft u-joints which will hopefully eliminate a highway speed vibration I'm getting. I hope the rear is easier to get out than the front was.
Last edited by docb969; Jun 26, 2018 at 03:05 AM. Reason: Auto spell didn't do its job.
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Okay did the rear drive u-joints. Pulling out the driveshaft was cake compared to the front. However, changing the u-joints was considerably more involved due to the double cardan joint up at the front of the shaft. I nearly broke my 12 ton press getting everything apart and had to chisel out 8 of the 10 bearing cup clips due to rust.
Everything went back together okay EXCEPT for one stupid problem (grrrr). The joints I used were the ones that are permanently lubed with synthetic grease so there were no grease fitting on them. There is however a bump in the joint casting where a grease fitting could theoretically be machined in. So when I put it all back together the front cardan joint would only bend in 3 directions. That had me stumped for a bit until I looked in real close with a bright light and found this "bump" for the grease fitting was hitting when bending in the fourth direction. I had installed the joint with the bump facing the rear of the vehicle. The solution was to take if off and turn it around so that the bump was facing forward. After I did that, the joint bend in all directions.
Everything went back together okay EXCEPT for one stupid problem (grrrr). The joints I used were the ones that are permanently lubed with synthetic grease so there were no grease fitting on them. There is however a bump in the joint casting where a grease fitting could theoretically be machined in. So when I put it all back together the front cardan joint would only bend in 3 directions. That had me stumped for a bit until I looked in real close with a bright light and found this "bump" for the grease fitting was hitting when bending in the fourth direction. I had installed the joint with the bump facing the rear of the vehicle. The solution was to take if off and turn it around so that the bump was facing forward. After I did that, the joint bend in all directions.
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Fleet Owner
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I reused the existing one. I did clean it up and lightly grease it.
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