Front Driveshaft Removal
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Fleet Owner
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Yeah, my mistake. I thought 98 and 99 didn't have the 2WD position and that it was put back in the 2000 model year.[/QUOTE]
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Fleet Owner
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My mistake, I thought the 2WD position was put back on the 2000 models. Yes, the sliding joint is hidden under the rubber boot.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Central NYS
No, Thank You!.
Makes it so much easier for all to keep track of what's being discussed. (Ford has a habit of making suttle little changes from time to time that can cause confussion when someone reads this thread later on.)
BTW, nice combination of mods..............
Makes it so much easier for all to keep track of what's being discussed. (Ford has a habit of making suttle little changes from time to time that can cause confussion when someone reads this thread later on.)
BTW, nice combination of mods..............
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I have a follow-on question ---- can I drive my Expy with the front driveshaft removed? If so, how far is safe? Is there any risk of the yokes popping out of the transfer case or front driveshaft, or are they held in place with snap rings or something?
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Fleet Owner
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Yes you can, for as far as you want and for as long as you want. The yokes for both ends of the front driveshaft are bolted in place and will not slip out.
Junior User
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Thanks! I'd dropped the shaft before your reply, and immediately saw that I'd be okay. How smooth my truck rides without that wobbly u-joint and front driveshaft!
The old caps came out of the yokes with a BFH and a 13/16 socket. I had a heck of a time driving the new caps home. I used a big C-clamp and that that same socket. Upon getting it all back together, I found that both u-joints were very tight, so I whopped on everything with the BFH and it smoothed out.
Unfortunately, I ran out of light (easily rectified) and warm air (not so much). Without a garage, I'm out of luck. It looks like my my big green bus will be RWD-only until I get another warm weekend day.
I have a problem - two actually. While installing the new u-joints, I accidentally wiped away my alignment mark on the TC yoke. And, I can't remember which way the driveshaft was installed. LOL! Newb! Any major worries here? Any way out?
The old caps came out of the yokes with a BFH and a 13/16 socket. I had a heck of a time driving the new caps home. I used a big C-clamp and that that same socket. Upon getting it all back together, I found that both u-joints were very tight, so I whopped on everything with the BFH and it smoothed out.
Unfortunately, I ran out of light (easily rectified) and warm air (not so much). Without a garage, I'm out of luck. It looks like my my big green bus will be RWD-only until I get another warm weekend day.
I have a problem - two actually. While installing the new u-joints, I accidentally wiped away my alignment mark on the TC yoke. And, I can't remember which way the driveshaft was installed. LOL! Newb! Any major worries here? Any way out?
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Fleet Owner
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Do you mean which end goes forward or that you might install the back end off 180 degrees?
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Junior User
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I don't know which yoke goes on which end of the driveshaft. I should've taken a picture or drawn an arrow on the shaft. That's problem #1.
The alignment mark on the front yoke was made in paint, probably at the factory. It's still plainly visible. But the alignment mark which I made on the rear yoke is gone, wiped away by cleaning the thing with brake cleaner before reassembly. So that's problem #2 -- aligning the yoke to the flange. Knowing that it bolts on in only two positions helps a bit.
Thanks, man
The alignment mark on the front yoke was made in paint, probably at the factory. It's still plainly visible. But the alignment mark which I made on the rear yoke is gone, wiped away by cleaning the thing with brake cleaner before reassembly. So that's problem #2 -- aligning the yoke to the flange. Knowing that it bolts on in only two positions helps a bit.
Thanks, man
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Fleet Owner
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Since the two halves of the driveshaft slide into one another, one half is thinner than the next. The thinner end goes forward. As to problem 2, you have a 50/50 shot of being correct. Just install it and if you don't feel any vibration you're all set. If you feel vibration at highway speeds, then you might have to unbolt it and turn it 180 degrees, but only the rear one..
Junior User
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AWESOME. Thank you. Now I have to wait for another thawing weekend. 11 degrees here in St. Louis and not much warmer for a good while.
But it was fun driving in the snow this morning! I haven't had the back of my truck slide out of line in YEARS. Whoo hoo! Donuts!
But it was fun driving in the snow this morning! I haven't had the back of my truck slide out of line in YEARS. Whoo hoo! Donuts!
Junior User
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Well .... it was 52 degrees in town today, so, I bolted up the shaft. She's running smooth as butter, but the handling feels slightly different than when in manual RWD mode (aka front driveshaft removed). Nothing bad, just ... different.
Thanks for all the help
Thanks for all the help
New User
Joined: Nov 2017
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Front drive shaft disconnected still can't get it out
I've looked everywhere for help with removing the front driveshaft after it's been disconnected. And either I am just not capable mentally to understand or the correct way is just not posted online.
I own a 2005 Ford Expedition XLT. I have a bad u-joint on the back of the front drive shaft. I was expecting this to be a quick job I can get done last night. What I thought was the hardest part, removing the flange bolts, was actually pretty easy. Just getting the dang driveshaft out of the bottom of the truck was what took me all night. No matter which way I move it front or back while collapsed there's just not enough room to get it out. Does something need to be removed? The closest I've got is still about an inch or so too long to remove.
Any help is appreciated. I'm going to go at it again tonight when I get back from Cincinnati. Thanks
I own a 2005 Ford Expedition XLT. I have a bad u-joint on the back of the front drive shaft. I was expecting this to be a quick job I can get done last night. What I thought was the hardest part, removing the flange bolts, was actually pretty easy. Just getting the dang driveshaft out of the bottom of the truck was what took me all night. No matter which way I move it front or back while collapsed there's just not enough room to get it out. Does something need to be removed? The closest I've got is still about an inch or so too long to remove.
Any help is appreciated. I'm going to go at it again tonight when I get back from Cincinnati. Thanks
New User
Joined: Nov 2017
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Yes I was. finally got the MF out that night. I did end up removing the shield on the t-case, which I didnt think would make much difference, and it didnt do a thing (besides making it easier to reinstall later.
What I ended up doing was removing the heat shield on the exhaust on the drivers side. This shield is as you described about the t-case driveshaft shield as it was a major PITA. It wouldnt come out and was constantly in the way. Was this the heat shield you were referring to? I didnt think so as you described the shield at the t-case surrounding the driveshaft.Once I took out the 3 bolts from that shield I was able to angle the shaft just a little bit more. Enough to just barely pry the shaft past the sway bar.
Hindsight is 20/20. If I would have just disconected the sway bar at the FR and FL control arms, the sway bar would have dropped down and I could have removed the driveshaft very easily without removing any shields. Thats what I'll do wen the front shaft front U-joint comes in next week.
Does that make sense?
What I ended up doing was removing the heat shield on the exhaust on the drivers side. This shield is as you described about the t-case driveshaft shield as it was a major PITA. It wouldnt come out and was constantly in the way. Was this the heat shield you were referring to? I didnt think so as you described the shield at the t-case surrounding the driveshaft.Once I took out the 3 bolts from that shield I was able to angle the shaft just a little bit more. Enough to just barely pry the shaft past the sway bar.
Hindsight is 20/20. If I would have just disconected the sway bar at the FR and FL control arms, the sway bar would have dropped down and I could have removed the driveshaft very easily without removing any shields. Thats what I'll do wen the front shaft front U-joint comes in next week.
Does that make sense?