First, thanks to everyone that offered help on my last AOD problem:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-properly.html
I ended up siphoning out some transmission fluid and put in a can of SeaFoam trans cleaner. After a few days of driving everything was shifting great again.

NOW, when I start it and take off, it shifts fine. Once everything warms up, I lose OD. It will shift up to there but then revs high like it's in neutral. I ended up driving it home, and by the time I got it back here, 3rd gear feels like it's trying the same thing, not locking into gear but slipping up the rpms.

This truck shows 205k+ miles on the odometer, which I now believe was swapped because of the airbag light on it, and everyone here said 93's didn't have airbags, they started in 94. So basically I have no idea how many miles are on this tranny.

Is it probably the clutches going bad? Is there an easy way to tell?
I can't decide if I should order a Baumann Overhaul kit for it, and throw in the valve body calibration kit as well as the Regulator Boost valve kit?
AOD Performance Products - Baumann Electronic Controls

I have never rebuilt an automatic transmission, but with instructions I should be able to.

My other thought is to find another truck with a 5speed in it and swap it out. This I've done before on a car, my 72 Comet.

Over the years I have had the worst luck with automatics in general. I change the fluid and filter regularly and I always manage to have to have them rebuilt. I'm just tire of spending $1500 a pop to have them rebuilt. That is always what it costs. I've never had a transmission bill under $1200.

Any thoughts and advice would help! Before I put the shotgun up to the tranny.
Thanks in advance.

 

So has anyone ever rebuilt an AOD? After 3 rebuilds from Aamco, I'm never going to them again. I just wonder if I should actually tackle this. How hard can it be if I take the time and mark everything, and follow step by step?

 

I also read somewhere about adding some friction modifier to the fluid to help the clutches work better, like in a traction lock rearend. Has anyone tried that?

 

Did you drain the fluid after the Seafoam?
If not you could try a fluid change with a bottle of Lucas Trans Fix added. It may get you another few months.
As far as rebuilding the trans yourself I don`t see why not. If you go to transtar1.com (originally posted by stuart1) you may get transmission diagrams. Good luck.

 

No, I haven't drained the seafoam out yet. Didn't say it was necessary to. I thought the Lucas has sealer that might cause other problems as well, since I have no leaks. I'll check out that link and see. I found another link that talks about clutch compressors for shimming. I don't know if I'll get in over my head or not. LOL
I'll try draining and refilling next.

 

Try the drain and refill but add Lucas.

 

Lucas works period. I have used it on many different vehicles.

One of our employees has a Toyota pickup with a 3.0 v6 and an auto transmission. He has 33" Pro Comp M/T's on it. It's lifted 6in and gets beat off road. His transmission was so bad that he could not even move. He dragged it to a sight rear incline. He added a full bottle and let it sit for 45 min. He fired it up and put it in drive at first nothing happened then he started to move. It ran for 15 min before he was able to drive. It runs and shifts perfectly. This was 35k mi ago.

I'm a true believer of all Seafoam and Lucas products

Edit: I have also used the Power Steering stop leak and rack and pinion renew on our 1975 Chevy C60 Dump. It used to go through over a gallon a day and now it is tight as a ticks a**. I have also used it on a plow pump as well which stop seep

 

Wait a minute--you've got an AOD behind a 351 and wondering why you have problems?

Jason

 

Actually, since I dropped in the 351, I've been taking it easy to break in the engine. Not alot of choice since the 351 donor had a C6. No way that was going in and losing OD.

BTW, fluid change and Lucas did nothing.
I'm thinking I'm back at a rebuild, and build up. I hope not, but I'm at a loss otherwise.

 

I rebuilt my first trans,90 AOD with a TCI pro super rebuild kit from Summit and a how to video.With a B+M converter the total cost was about $400. It worked real good for two years until I snapped the input shaft doin` burn outs. I just went ahead and got a TCI super streetfighter trans w/ hardened input shaft to back up the new 393.The only thing wrong w/the first one when I tore it down was the friction surfaces on the clutch discs were wiped out.

 

But now you have the AOD in...and still no OD...

Jason

 

So it was pretty straight forward?

I guess I should get a new converter while I have it torn down.

I know little about converters. Any tips on what I should get being I'm going to build up the AOD and have the beefed up 351 in front of it?

 

Any time you rebuild a trans. you should put a new or rebuilt converter in it just to eliminate the possibility of having metal shavings/trash put back in your new trans.Get in contact w/B+M or TCI for sugestions on your application. I was running a B+M Torque Master 2000 in the old trans and I was very happy with it.

 

The overdrive band is a weak link with that trans, if the cable or rod is not adjusted just right then it will fail over and over no matter who rebuilds the transmission.

 

Ok, I've been doing some searches online for AOD info and all and found something I want to run by here.

When I built and dropped in the 351 replacing the 302, I believe I used the flexplate from the 351 because the old other didn't bolt up. The 351 was bolted to a C6 and my 302 was bolted to the AOD. So when I installed the 351 I used the flexplate that fit.

Now I'm wondering if the 351 flexplate I used was the wrong one since it was for a C6 originally. Any ideas? The 351 and C6 were in an 89 F250, if that helps for info.

Also, with the offset weight on the flexplate, is there a certain place that needs to line up with the engine? If I installed it wrong, could it have contributed to my transmission failure along with the TV Cable?