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04 F-150 Ball Joint Replacement

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  #1  
Old 12-25-2008, 02:11 PM
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04 F-150 Ball Joint Replacement

I have a buddy that needs ball joints replaced, and I have never done this to one of these trucks, only superdutys. Can anyone help me out with the process? Thanks.
 
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Old 12-25-2008, 11:24 PM
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I replaced the lower ball joints with Moog K80149. It can be done on the vehicle. If they move about 1/8th of an inch and stop, you will have to heat the control arm "carefully", drive it until it stop, let it cool , then repeat this process until they come out. If you can press them out it is better. If you are replacing the whole control arms I would suggest the Ford part, they are less expensive. Around $230 each.
 
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Old 12-26-2008, 08:13 PM
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They are splined. There is a large circlip on top which must be removed. The press won't fit because of the shape of the control arm. You must beat them out. You need to support the under side of the control arm on both sides of the ball joint so the arm is bucked as you pound on the top side of the ball joint. I raise the arm with a floor jack and then place jack stands under the arm as close to the ball joint as you can get them. You can spray some PB Blaster on it before you remove them. Once the old ball joint is out you can use the press to push the new ball joint in. It works for installation, but not removal. You'll see why when you try to mount the tool to press them out. It won't mount squarely. Don't for get to remove the circlip and then reinstall it once the new ball joint is in.
 
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Old 12-28-2008, 03:49 PM
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Just got the job done yesterday. Thanks for the help guys. We did get them pressed out though. We dropped the upper ball joints and the tie rod ends and moved the axle to the side, and we removed the part that holds the axle and the hub (can't think of it), we had enough room to get the press in.
 
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Old 12-29-2008, 12:22 AM
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You're thinking of the streering knuckle. It depends on the shape of the lower control arm as to whether or not you can get the tool on straight to press the ball joint out. If it is relatively flat it's no problem, but some have a curved lip at the outer edge which doesn't allow the "C" clamp to sit straight and square. Those have to be beat out.
 
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