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Sudden trans temp increase

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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 09:05 PM
  #31  
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Doug, if you are not comfortable brazing, why not tap and install some screws with loktite. Then grind them down. Just an idea.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 09:08 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Tenn01PSD350
Doug, if you are not comfortable brazing, why not tap and install some screws with loktite. Then grind them down. Just an idea.

Very smart! I have a handfull of set screws all the same size laying around. Hopefully I have the right size tap. Ill have to check that. I just got a shop for my business (lawncare) and all my tools are still at home, too cold to move anythign now. grrr
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 09:14 PM
  #33  
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I tapped on the end of the line this is where the bypass valve is. Dont weld this without correct tools and micrometer.This bushing has to be correct fit. You dont want crap in this line that will do other damage to your trany.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 09:15 PM
  #34  
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Easier yet Doug, tap the holes and JBweld it. If the tap is course enough, it ought to stay there and if done right requires minimal sanding/finishing. This is of course if you are surely replacing the assembly soon.

I like the hammer method. Warm up the truck and give that sucker a few good raps with a rubber mallet. It may just open up as it surely appears to be stuck. This seems to be the quickest thing to try and that would have my name on it. I would go out right now and try that.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 09:16 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by DCSpecial
I'm waiting on a call back from my guy at Gurnee Ford (he was delivering parts), I'll see if I can get a part number and if he has one.

Don't go nuts with a pressure washer and bend the fins on the cooler though. I'd think that the heat would melt any snow that got in there. The Boss mount covers up the front end where the trans cooler is pretty good too.
I was going to mention this as well. When I put my Western plow on last season, I had to move one of the coolers( I think it was the PS cooler). When I have the plow on, the flow is definitely effected, and the tranny temps are higher, but not anywhere near the 200* mark.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 09:18 PM
  #36  
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Ahh ok, I see. I never had any of this apart before so I have no clue or idea what it looks like. Things are clicking now....................

Im going to try the set screw idea but you think its safe to just crimp the line?? Im going to get the part tomorrow anyhow, just need a fix until I can get the half hour downtime that I need to replace it.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 09:19 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Tenn01PSD350
Easier yet Doug, tap the holes and JBweld it. If the tap is course enough, it ought to stay there and if done right requires minimal sanding/finishing. This is of course if you are surely replacing the assembly soon.

I like the hammer method. Warm up the truck and give that sucker a few good raps with a rubber mallet. It may just open up as it surely appears to be stuck. This seems to be the quickest thing to try and that would have my name on it. I would go out right now and try that.

Things are really clicking!! I had no clue what or why i was tapping. im in just a forced panic im not thinking straight, Ill go tap on it right now since the smoke is clearing, LOL
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 09:25 PM
  #38  
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Remove the return line and check to see if you have flow. This can be done down line away from the trany.Why cant you go to ford and buy a replacement bypass line? One thing you have to remember is you still could have blockage in the cooler.Keep this in mind. Do not crimp the line!!!
 

Last edited by 05chop; Dec 22, 2008 at 09:29 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 09:26 PM
  #39  
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05chop, nice posts and links. Could you update your sig with truck info and name? I assume you have a PSD?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 09:40 PM
  #40  
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05Chop, I just replaced the cooler, so i know i have no blockage there.

I tried tapping and no luck. took the truck for a hard spin around the block and got the fluid up to 150 and tapped away. I tried a regular hammer too just to try it, no dice, coolers are still ice cold and temp hasnt dropped.

The trans was recently rebuilt so im pretty sure it has to be something easy?

Also, I will be getting the part I need in the AM but I need my truck to plow the snow that is about 7 hours away.

Also, that line looks like a pita to get too with the exhaust right there. It doesnt look as easy as I thought to replace.

So the valve is towards the front of the truck correct?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 09:54 PM
  #41  
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Look here see the line that has the bump in the rear? The check valve hides in here.If you just had your trany overhaul dont do anything that will void your warranty Ford Super Duty 4R100 Tranny Transmission Side Photo
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 09:59 PM
  #42  
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OK wish me luck, im headed out my shop to try and get this working. I feel that I have a pretty good understanding of how this all works. If the snow werent so close id just wait until the morning to get the part I need. Its already being held for me.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 10:03 PM
  #43  
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Doug, it looks like you didn't read the link Izzy posted earlier. I did. From what I remember you may want to try that and see if fluid is going where it should. I hate to say it, but you better read that link and see if the pump is trying to push fluid to the cooler. Your pump may be toast. Of course we don't know because the cooler will never show warmth if no fluid is moving which could be the stuck valve. Unfortunately you need to do the Dieselsite tests and find out where the problem is.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 10:05 PM
  #44  
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Check flow Check flow Is it possable that you could of pinched the cooling line when you were snowplowing? Do you have an infared gun that you can shoot the trany pan with? Just to make sure its not a bad gauge?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 10:06 PM
  #45  
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Minimal snow by the AM.....but it is starting around 3am I heard.
 
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