4x4 noise, solid front axle
4x4 noise, solid front axle
I am getting a pretty loud grinding noise when the hubs are locked. It's 10 times worse when I engage 4X4.
I have the solid axle front. I don't know the axle code. 93 is stamped on the pumkin on the front.
My question is this....
Should there be any play in the u joint that connects the end of the axle to the hub?
When the hubs are free, I can grab the piece that goes into the hub and the other side that goes to the axle. I can actually wiggle it a little bit.
I only ask as it does it on both sides, but the noise seems worse on the driver side.
The follow up question becomes....how hard are they to replace????
Again, and as always, thanks in advance.
I have the solid axle front. I don't know the axle code. 93 is stamped on the pumkin on the front.
My question is this....
Should there be any play in the u joint that connects the end of the axle to the hub?
When the hubs are free, I can grab the piece that goes into the hub and the other side that goes to the axle. I can actually wiggle it a little bit.
I only ask as it does it on both sides, but the noise seems worse on the driver side.
The follow up question becomes....how hard are they to replace????
Again, and as always, thanks in advance.
you should have no play.i am so glad you posted this a few guys on her have been pushin to get me to do an sfa swap because my d44 is doing the same exact thing on the same exact side.you should probably swap the u joints and the whole enchilada while your in there to prevent further issues thats what im gonna do.the u-joints shouldnt be too hard.if your ball joints are showing any wear whatsoever you may as well swap them while your down there.im doin bearings balljoints tie rods and u joints on mine real soon.let us know if ya need any info
If the ball joints are good, replacing the U joints will take some time, but not as long as it would to replace the ball joints.
Remove wheel, hub, pull axle shafts out and replace like a normal u joint.
Scroll down to see pictures of possible damage running it this way, about post 37 if I remember right..
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...th-my-4x4.html
Remove wheel, hub, pull axle shafts out and replace like a normal u joint.
Scroll down to see pictures of possible damage running it this way, about post 37 if I remember right..
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...th-my-4x4.html
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NOPE!!!!!
I finished the driver side last night, pulled out of the garage to 3 inches of snow.
Headed down the road, the noise is the same, and now it's worse when I turn.
The U-joints definately needed to be done, but what's the next step????
I did not take the front diff cover off to inspect, I just removed the fill plug to make sure the fluid level was correct.
Wheel bearings also seemed fine.
If anyone has any suggestions it would be great.
I finished the driver side last night, pulled out of the garage to 3 inches of snow.
Headed down the road, the noise is the same, and now it's worse when I turn.
The U-joints definately needed to be done, but what's the next step????
I did not take the front diff cover off to inspect, I just removed the fill plug to make sure the fluid level was correct.
Wheel bearings also seemed fine.
If anyone has any suggestions it would be great.
Check the front driveline u joints and CV shaft. The noise could be migrating through the front end, sounding like it is at the wheel ends. Have you replaced the axle u joints on both sides?
Also, what was the condition of the spindle bearings inside the back of the spindle. The axle stub is supported by this bearing and can make noise like this if they are dry or worn out.
Jason
Also, what was the condition of the spindle bearings inside the back of the spindle. The axle stub is supported by this bearing and can make noise like this if they are dry or worn out.
Jason
The truck is 30 miles away at work right now.
The splines all look ok, but I was suprised how easy they slid into the differential. Maybe I missed something on the re-install.
The needle bearings on both side u joints were absolutely shot.
I remembered one thing a few minutes ago. When I installed the driver side axle back in, as I rotated it, I felt a little grinding (this is with the wheels off and the front end lifted), when I spun the axle (by hand) when It was locked. I assumed a lack of lubrication, since it had been sitting that way for 2 days. That's why I double checked the fluid level.
The other thing was that it was snowing like crazy when I went on my test drive. I could of swore I heard a little squeeking noise, but there was so much snow on the ground, plows running, etc, that I don't know if it was in my imagination.
The splines all look ok, but I was suprised how easy they slid into the differential. Maybe I missed something on the re-install.
The needle bearings on both side u joints were absolutely shot.
I remembered one thing a few minutes ago. When I installed the driver side axle back in, as I rotated it, I felt a little grinding (this is with the wheels off and the front end lifted), when I spun the axle (by hand) when It was locked. I assumed a lack of lubrication, since it had been sitting that way for 2 days. That's why I double checked the fluid level.
The other thing was that it was snowing like crazy when I went on my test drive. I could of swore I heard a little squeeking noise, but there was so much snow on the ground, plows running, etc, that I don't know if it was in my imagination.
That noise could easily be another U joint.
How are the driveshft joints?
With the front wheels off the ground on both sides and the transfer case locked in, the driveshaft will not turn, so the other side U joint will turn.
Unlock the transfer case, lock the other side hub and put the tire on the ground, now the drive shaft turns.
A bad u joint anywhere will be felt in the axle as you turn it.
Using the above process you can figure out where it is unless you have bad joints in both locations.
How are the driveshft joints?
With the front wheels off the ground on both sides and the transfer case locked in, the driveshaft will not turn, so the other side U joint will turn.
Unlock the transfer case, lock the other side hub and put the tire on the ground, now the drive shaft turns.
A bad u joint anywhere will be felt in the axle as you turn it.
Using the above process you can figure out where it is unless you have bad joints in both locations.








