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How far up the temp gauge does your needle go when warmed up? Since I bought this truck, I've never seen the needle move up more than 1/3 between the first line after the "C" and the first line before the "H". This is during normal driving. I bought the rig used from the original owner and don't know if he has a different thermostat in there or what. Is it running cold? I hear that hissing from the exhaust deal quite a bit around 1500 RPMs under light throttle. Is my truck warming up all the way?
What thermostat should be in these 7.3L PSDs? I'm thinking about having a coolant flush done and putting in a new thermostat if needed. IIRC, I saw a thread about a slightly hotter thermostat than Ford puts in?
Temperature, I think sounds about right. If i remember, that is were mine rides. Got a hand held lazer temp gauge? Maybe get a reading off the radiator hose. I just did that with my Toyota Crapola. Ran 105` My feet froze.. Changed t-stat and now 172 on the hose and now it pumps out heat and cooks my feet. Now i can deice my windows with a 10 minute warm up. My Symptoms were for my stuck open or a lazy spring. Slow warm up. Side streets, it would start pumping out medium heat but after i hit the thruway i would loose all heat and freeze to almost death. The gauge bobbled all over the place. Now with new t-stat is goes up quick to just below half way and stays there no matter on side streets or thruway(air moving through the radiator or not).
I would think more of a concern would be the Hissing from the exhaust? Exhaust leak?
I echo the above post that the hissing you're hearing is the EBPV working to warm up the engine. I have two 7.3 PSD's and both of them do this. As for the factory temperature gauge, mine has never gotten more than 1/4 of the way into the normal operating range on the gauge on either truck. I've added an Aeroforce gauge that gives me a digital readout and when the factory gauge is about to the normal operating temp, the digital gauge is ranging between about 197 and 229 degrees.
Yes, it's the EBPV working and when I hit the pedal further, it stops as it's supposed to. At what temperature should that valve stay closed? It seems to function until the truck is completely warmed up, which takes some time with this cold weather.
Is there a special coolant you have to run in these? Is it the type that's safe for aluminum parts? What should the pH level be? Do you still run the older style coolant or have you converted to the newer style?
Yes, it's the EBPV working and when I hit the pedal further, it stops as it's supposed to. At what temperature should that valve stay closed? It seems to function until the truck is completely warmed up, which takes some time with this cold weather.
Is there a special coolant you have to run in these? Is it the type that's safe for aluminum parts? What should the pH level be? Do you still run the older style coolant or have you converted to the newer style?
The EBPV will continue to come on even when you are out driving around, if its cold out.
Special coolant, yes. Don't use the stuff in the yellow bottle you get at the parts store or walmart. You need to use coolant that is specifically designed for heavy duty trucks. Depends on what year your truck is as to what type of coolant it needs. It either came with green coolant, or gold coolant.
Some guys here have changed theirs over to the ELC, extended life coolant, and it is red in color.
Yes, it's the EBPV working and when I hit the pedal further, it stops as it's supposed to. At what temperature should that valve stay closed? It seems to function until the truck is completely warmed up, which takes some time with this cold weather.
Is there a special coolant you have to run in these? Is it the type that's safe for aluminum parts? What should the pH level be? Do you still run the older style coolant or have you converted to the newer style?
I believe the EBPV works until the oil hits 120 degrees. As for anti-freeze, I'd use any extended life anti-freeze suitable for diesel engines. Check the SCA, and add additive as needed. If it's a diesel approved coolant, you shouldn't have to add anything to it, but it's a good idea to check it anyway. Cavitation will ruin an engine. If you change the thermostat, change the housing too. It will be less likely to leak when you're done.
Some guys here have changed theirs over to the ELC, extended life coolant, and it is red in color.
That depends on what brand of coolant. Some is red, some is gold, and some is green. When dumping the red stuff in, you think you're putting tranny fluid in your radiator. It feels like you're doing something wrong.