Block heater
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Montana
Block heater
After 3 nights in a row of 22 below (not wind chill, actual temp) I decided its time to add an engine block heater. It always starts but it can't be good for the engine. I got the kind that goes in a freeze plug. The instructions don't say which plug to put it in. Have any of you guys installed one of these? Which plug should I put it in and what is the best way to get the soft plug out? Also when refilling the antifreeze what is the best way to make sure all the air is out of the block? It is a 2000 V10. Does anyone know what the total antifreeze capacity is?
Thanks
Budman
Thanks
Budman
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
I don't think it matters where it goes, as long as the plug isn't in the way of anything. It will heat the water and conduct through the coolant system, maybe not as well if it's toward one end or another. Try for something as central as possible and out of the way.
I don't know about best, but if you drive a small screwdriver or awl in one spot to deform the ring, and then push the handle toward the center. The diameter will constrict just enough to let it rotate, once it has moved enough you can grab it with plyers and yank it out.
As long as the head has smooth paths, the air should leave the block as coolant flows. Because the reservoir is the highest point all air should migrate to it and the coolant level will drop. Although you may want to top off the system using the upper rad hose to fill the system before trying to bleeding it down.
I don't know what ratio you want to run, but I thought the coolant capacity was about 5.5gallons (22qts). I'd say you would want no less than 2 gallons of anti-freeze. Although it would take nearly 3 gallons to get 50/50 mix. If you want to go higher you will need more.
I don't know about best, but if you drive a small screwdriver or awl in one spot to deform the ring, and then push the handle toward the center. The diameter will constrict just enough to let it rotate, once it has moved enough you can grab it with plyers and yank it out.
As long as the head has smooth paths, the air should leave the block as coolant flows. Because the reservoir is the highest point all air should migrate to it and the coolant level will drop. Although you may want to top off the system using the upper rad hose to fill the system before trying to bleeding it down.
I don't know what ratio you want to run, but I thought the coolant capacity was about 5.5gallons (22qts). I'd say you would want no less than 2 gallons of anti-freeze. Although it would take nearly 3 gallons to get 50/50 mix. If you want to go higher you will need more.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Montana
Thanks for the info. I guess I will just pick the plug that is easiest to get to. If I pull the lower radiator hose will It drain the block and the radiator completly? I wan't to replace all the antifreeze with fresh. Do you know if peak antifreeze is any good? The premixed is on sale for $7.00 a Gal.
Thanks,
Budman
Thanks,
Budman
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
Yes, it will drain both, but it will flow from the rad and the block. You will want to at least open the reservoir up to allow air in.
I've used Peak in the past and have been happy with it. I would never buy premix. Your paying $7 for half a gallon or $14 for a full gallon of anti-freeze. Half of what your buying is tap water. Plus I don't typically run 50/50, I use closer to 30/70 anti-freeze/water.
If you put the anti-freeze in first and top off with water you get what ever percentage of mix you like. If the system is full, pouring with velocity displaces water and replaces it with anti-freeze, but you can only do this with the volume of the res in our trucks.
I've used Peak in the past and have been happy with it. I would never buy premix. Your paying $7 for half a gallon or $14 for a full gallon of anti-freeze. Half of what your buying is tap water. Plus I don't typically run 50/50, I use closer to 30/70 anti-freeze/water.
If you put the anti-freeze in first and top off with water you get what ever percentage of mix you like. If the system is full, pouring with velocity displaces water and replaces it with anti-freeze, but you can only do this with the volume of the res in our trucks.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 530
Likes: 2
From: W. Wisc
-22...Yeesh...we only hit -16 last night. Brrrr. You need a greater than 50/50 mix for the temps you see, like I do. I run 60/40 antifreeze/water (Mpls/St Paul metro).
Whenever I flush the cooling system, there is always water left in that you can't get out. So what I do is read the total coolant capacity from the owner's manual, multiply by .6 and add that much straight coolant to the system. Then top off with water and the ratio should be about right. Now you aren't flushing, so it would probably best to premix the coolant with water and then add the premix to the system. Again 60/40. Run it with the resevoir open until it warms up and keep topping it off. Then let it cool totally, re-add coolant to fill, and you should be good to drive it, but it will still need more coolant as the air works out so watch it every day for a few days until it stops going down.
-Dave
Whenever I flush the cooling system, there is always water left in that you can't get out. So what I do is read the total coolant capacity from the owner's manual, multiply by .6 and add that much straight coolant to the system. Then top off with water and the ratio should be about right. Now you aren't flushing, so it would probably best to premix the coolant with water and then add the premix to the system. Again 60/40. Run it with the resevoir open until it warms up and keep topping it off. Then let it cool totally, re-add coolant to fill, and you should be good to drive it, but it will still need more coolant as the air works out so watch it every day for a few days until it stops going down.
-Dave
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From: Montana
Thanks for all the help. I think I will mix it myself so I can get 60/40. Also I have been using napa full synthetic 5-30 oil.(valvoline) I can definitely tell the difference compared to reg oil. It starts flowing faster.
Budman
Budman
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: in the woods of MA
Slightly on/off topic rant... but it costs about $35 last time I checked to add the block heater when ordering a new truck - why would anyone in their right mind who lives in the north half of the country NOT spend the lousy $35? Factory block heaters are cheap, yet they seem pretty rare - in gas models... I think they're always installed in the diesels, all you need to get for those is the cord...
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Deforest
I had a 2000 superduty with a 5.4 liter. The frost plug heater was on the drivers side of the block, in the back frost plug hole. Im going to put my new frost plug heater for my v10, in the back drivers side too. To me, that one seems to be the easiest one to get to. I read somewhere that another frost plug to put a heater in, is the passenger side rear, above the starter. They recommend you pull the starter out to get to that one.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Montana
Some of the antifreeze at the parts stores say they can be mixed with all colors of antifreeze. Is it a good idea to switch to this kind? Or should I stick with the green? (I think they still used green in 2000)
Thanks for the help.
Budman
Thanks for the help.
Budman
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
It doesn't really matter. Some people have had "problems" with Dexcool and Dexcool style anti-freezes, however the problem was an additive put in stock systems that caused the heater core to gum up. I do like the long life orange coolants though.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,881
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From: Wake Forest, NC
Factory block heaters are the freeze plug style. They all are as far as I've seen. Not all diesels have them either believe it or not. Depending on the year and the ship to location depends on whether it came with one.