That is sad. I think that I am getting bamboozled into thinking that these reconditioned batteries I buy at the junkyard are just more expensive versions of the used ones that I used to buy from them, sans the stickers, and dirt.

 

I went with a re-man because I had to. Only one place had a MC instock and I figured I could get this problem resolved fairly quick. If I known it was going to takes days I would of waited and ordered a new one. Thats my crappy luck. Ive done these a couple of times and never had a problem. Im starting to think this old bugger wants a rest. The wife actually called me at work tonight to tell me about another 79 Ford for sale. I called but it was gone already. Hopefully get a chance today to mess with it again. I just put new rear brakes and wheel cylinders on about 3 weeks ago. I was going to do the front this week but instead Im dealing with this. I'll let you know what I find.

 

O.K. heres an update. Yoohoo! Yesterday I pulled MC & Power booster off and started from scratch. Drained the MC and did the bench bleed as stated above(waiting 20-30 sec. between pushes). Reinstalled everything and rebled the lines. Same problem only now I relize the pedal does not go to the floor. It seems to run out of travel before it gets to the floor. It does reach the floor when its not connected to the booster rod. Driving around the block it sounds like metal on metal thud and it wont go any further. I adjusted the rear shoe a little tighter also. I drove it home slowly 18 mile from work with out the power assist so I know the brakes grab. Since its going to be like 70 degrees in December in the great north east today, Im replacing the front rotors & pads(theyre shot). If this doesnt help Im chucking the MC & booster thru the big plate glass window @ the parts store and trying some place else.

 

I cant stay long, I think the cops are after me, and Im working midnite so gotta get couple hrs sleep. Got my new rotors and pads on today. Nothings changed. pedal still travels about 2 inches & stops with about another 2 or so inches to the floor. I didnt throw the MC & power boost thru the window but they're both going back. Hope for better weather on Monday and better results with NEW parts if I can find any.

 

No big deal, you got your rotors and pads changed so the pickup's ready
for a new master cylinder. :) Cool. :)

I don't know nuthin about the proportioning valve...
Never needed to know anything...
It's always acted as if it weren't there, from my experience.

When it causes problems what sorts of problems are they?

My '75 Ford shop manual sez to pull that button out when bleeding the brakes etc. Mil1ion (Dennis) claimed other-years said it needed pushing
in.

Many of us found that the dannged thing didn't need either! LOL :)

Alvin in AZ
ps- Anyway, what happened to Dennis? I miss 'im.

 

For a half ton you do it one way, for the 3/4-1 ton, you do the opposite.

Dennis got banned for various reasons. I can tell you in secret where he went, but if I say it out loud, it will get edited, and I will get slapped.

 

O.K. heres the poop. The reman MC was junk. Napa had a new one. Put it on and started bleeding the brakes and I blew a brake line. So on the way home from work this morning I stopped and got a new line to put on today. I returned the bleeder pump I got from Napa. It wasnt worth $43 for sure. Next time Im near the Harbor Freight place I''ll run in and get the same one for $18. If it doesnt work I'm out $18 instead of $43. I also picked up a double flaring tool kit for the lines. No more wasting extra line. For $57 I'll have next time I need it. Hopefully this is all done today and I can have my truck back. Whats this button you guys are talking about. Is it on the proportioning valve? I dont think Ive ever messed with it before.

 

Good luck there with your brakes, and please let us know what it takes, or what you had to do to get good brakes.

While working on my dent, I am starting to see the front of the power booster getting wet, so I know what that means, and I don't mind changing the master cylinder, but could do with out all the headaches.

It seems to be a common thread with remanufactured parts as not being worthy carrying out of the store. I ran into that with a starter a few months back, and was aggravating to say the least.

Is this common with remanufactured parts such as starters, alternators, water pumps, and master cylinders? sorry bro didn’t mean to, but just a question

 

I will NEVER buy reman anything again. The money you save isnt worth the aggrevation. Like I said earlier I bought them because I had to. Nobody had new at the time. I went thru 4 reman starters in about 7 months. The last one was making a noise Id never heard before when Id give it gas. It would nock and ping kind of like an engine. That started about the 2nd week it was on. Never thought it would be the starter. to be honest doing the MC and power booster isnt all that bad if you dont have to do it several times to fix it once. It should be warm enough to go get started on that brake line now. Hopefully I'll be back tonite with good news

 

Put the new brakes line on the front and bled the lines and I'VE GOT BRAKES!!!!!!! WOOHOO!!!!! All total I've got about $350 in the new brakes. Rear shoes & wheel cylinders, front rotors & pads, power booster & master cylinder, front brake lines(both sides), and new bleeder screws on front calipers. I cant remember(and I didnt look) if it was this thread or another but someone asked about the size wrench for these screws. The rear wheel cylinders are 10mm and the front ones are 3/8. I'm stiil interested in finding out about that button you guys were talking about. And by the way HAPPY NEWYEAR!!!

 

I would seriously consider replacing all the brake lines since you have a double flaring tool already, it would be easy.
Being that one failed is a pretty good indication of the condition of the other lines.

 

I replaced the lines from the proportioning valve to the MC about 2 yrs ago when I did the cab swap. Also did from valve to rear end the same time. I just did the rear end about 2 months ago. Hopefully I'm done with the brakes on this truck for a while. Hopefully. I'm probably going to redo the lines on my dump here in the next couple months. The guy at the shop where I get my inspections said he would flare the lines if I ever needed it for free but, I hate having to go somewhere and wasting time if can do it myself.

 

Jeeze, it's hard to believe that about Dennis. :(
He was a supporter too, you know. :/

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/bleedtool.jpg

I made that tool from some 1/32" 1095 from Brownell's.
The dark blue color is from the heat treating, like an old watch spring. :)

I made it and used it once and it does nothing. :)
Oh, it holds the pin out alright, just there seems to be no need to do that.
I've never taken a proportioning valve apart and have no idea what to think.

Anyway...
Dennis always wanted to see a picture of it but was unable to do anything
about it until just lately and had 'im on my mind while taking the picture etc.

Heck, I'm way-more abrasive than Dennis... my days are numbered here. :/
My middle name aught to be "Norton". LOL :)

-----------------------------------

Don't go wasting your dangged money on bleeder equipment! :)

All you got to do is get a piece of hose that slips over the bleeder snug
and put the hose down into a jar with a little bit of clean brake fluid in it.

While the bleeder is open... slow and easy... pump the brake pedal.
Watch the master cylinder's fluid level under the open hood.
You'll soon see why the instructions are "slow and easy". ;)

The master cylinder won't-suck-back-up-enough brake fluid to matter.
The jar will keep gaining fluid.

Easy as that.

Why make it more complicated than you have to? :)

Alvin in AZ
ps- as far as "wasting" brake fluid... heck, save it and use it for "hick"
paint remover, just mark the container or something.