Knocking Sound/ Injectors?
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2008
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Knocking Sound/ Injectors?
Here is a clip I took to help with identifying the sound. It is a pretty profound knocking noise that seems to be louder when engine is cold but doesn't go away just gets slightly less noticeable. The clip is from when it is warmed up. I have heard from somewhere on here I think that one of the injectors is much louder than the others. Just wanted to see what you guys think since I have only been driving a diesel for about 3 months. Thx
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Smokin
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 8,849
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Clay, Its kinda hard to say based on the video. I did the same thing when I discovered my clicky #8 and the guys couldn't hear $h*t on my video either.
hah.
Anyways, these trucks are known for having a sort of "knocking" injector on your #8 cylinder. Someone who knows what the hell they are talking about can explain it to you, it has something to do with the timing of the motor.
Your truck sounds pretty healthy from what I can hear.
hah.
Anyways, these trucks are known for having a sort of "knocking" injector on your #8 cylinder. Someone who knows what the hell they are talking about can explain it to you, it has something to do with the timing of the motor.
Your truck sounds pretty healthy from what I can hear.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 823
Likes: 5
From: Dallas, Oregon
As Lisa says, usually the 7.3L engine has a knock associated with the #8 cylinder (rearmost on the drivers side), and that is referred to as "cackle". There are several things that can be done to mitigate it, but I am not sure that anyone has completely eliminated it. Use the forum search function and type in "cackle". Pocket suggests a test to see if it is the injector causing the noise. Look in the thread "One Loud Cylinder". If it is an injector noise, you at least eliminate mechanical problems.
I have a knock in my 2001 F250 7.3L that I have traced down to either #5 or #7 cylinder, which is on the passenger (opposite) side. This is not the usual "cackle", and the ususal "cackle" fixes have not changed it a bit. I have changed injectors and installed a regulated (oriface) fuel return. I tried a different Injector Drive Module, too, and nothing changed. I'll be increasing my fuel pressure next.
The good thing about an injector knock is that it rarely is life-threatening to the motor.
Jock
I have a knock in my 2001 F250 7.3L that I have traced down to either #5 or #7 cylinder, which is on the passenger (opposite) side. This is not the usual "cackle", and the ususal "cackle" fixes have not changed it a bit. I have changed injectors and installed a regulated (oriface) fuel return. I tried a different Injector Drive Module, too, and nothing changed. I'll be increasing my fuel pressure next.
The good thing about an injector knock is that it rarely is life-threatening to the motor.
Jock
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
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From: Lancaster, Pa.
Sounds pretty healthy to me Clay. The only thing i heard was the turn signal clicking. haa... Also what you can do is try some bio diesel or a fuel treatment, mine knocks a little when starting and then quiets up a bit when warm.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
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From: Payson, AZ
Clay,
Unless it has been changed out for a quieter AE long lead injector your #8 is the normal AB injector and will be louder. Some type of regulated fuel return will help. #8 fires right after #6 and since they are side by side and #8 is at the dead end of the fuel rail it does not always get it's fair share of fuel and will knock. An after market fuel return kit is what will help. I just went with the inexpensive CCK from Dino Fuel Alternatives and I'm pleased with the result. It opens up the dead end of the fuel rail in each head and gives better fuel flow to the cylinders at the end of the rail. Go HERE click on All Products and look for Cross Connect Kit (CCK) on page 2. Other vendors have more fully adjustable regulated returns but they are much more expensive. Check with some of our sponsors. I know ITP has them available.
Unless it has been changed out for a quieter AE long lead injector your #8 is the normal AB injector and will be louder. Some type of regulated fuel return will help. #8 fires right after #6 and since they are side by side and #8 is at the dead end of the fuel rail it does not always get it's fair share of fuel and will knock. An after market fuel return kit is what will help. I just went with the inexpensive CCK from Dino Fuel Alternatives and I'm pleased with the result. It opens up the dead end of the fuel rail in each head and gives better fuel flow to the cylinders at the end of the rail. Go HERE click on All Products and look for Cross Connect Kit (CCK) on page 2. Other vendors have more fully adjustable regulated returns but they are much more expensive. Check with some of our sponsors. I know ITP has them available.
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Elder User
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Cool, I figured it was normal but it was pronounced over the others and so consistent with rpm I thought it could be a metallic knock.
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Elder User
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Clay,
Unless it has been changed out for a quieter AE long lead injector your #8 is the normal AB injector and will be louder. Some type of regulated fuel return will help. #8 fires right after #6 and since they are side by side and #8 is at the dead end of the fuel rail it does not always get it's fair share of fuel and will knock. An after market fuel return kit is what will help. I just went with the inexpensive CCK from Dino Fuel Alternatives and I'm pleased with the result. It opens up the dead end of the fuel rail in each head and gives better fuel flow to the cylinders at the end of the rail. Go HERE click on All Products and look for Cross Connect Kit (CCK) on page 2. Other vendors have more fully adjustable regulated returns but they are much more expensive. Check with some of our sponsors. I know ITP has them available.
Unless it has been changed out for a quieter AE long lead injector your #8 is the normal AB injector and will be louder. Some type of regulated fuel return will help. #8 fires right after #6 and since they are side by side and #8 is at the dead end of the fuel rail it does not always get it's fair share of fuel and will knock. An after market fuel return kit is what will help. I just went with the inexpensive CCK from Dino Fuel Alternatives and I'm pleased with the result. It opens up the dead end of the fuel rail in each head and gives better fuel flow to the cylinders at the end of the rail. Go HERE click on All Products and look for Cross Connect Kit (CCK) on page 2. Other vendors have more fully adjustable regulated returns but they are much more expensive. Check with some of our sponsors. I know ITP has them available.
On the Early 99 the site says that it needs to be clearanced from the turbo. How is this accomplished?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 12,245
Likes: 758
From: Houston, Texas
Well, some trucks have a mind of their own and don't like certain things.
For example:
-My truck will chew through any oil in 2500-3000 miles, be it Rotella, Delo, Amsoil, Motorcraft, Synthetic, Dino, if it's not Castrol Tection Extra, it won't make it to 5000 miles.
-If I unplug the wastegate on my truck, there really is no way to describe it other than the fact that my truck doesn't like it.
-The 10K resistor mod, truck hated it and wouldn't run right with it.
The long and short of it, your truck may not like it, or it just needs some time to adjust. Either that or you need to replace your ICP sensor.....
For example:
-My truck will chew through any oil in 2500-3000 miles, be it Rotella, Delo, Amsoil, Motorcraft, Synthetic, Dino, if it's not Castrol Tection Extra, it won't make it to 5000 miles.
-If I unplug the wastegate on my truck, there really is no way to describe it other than the fact that my truck doesn't like it.
-The 10K resistor mod, truck hated it and wouldn't run right with it.
The long and short of it, your truck may not like it, or it just needs some time to adjust. Either that or you need to replace your ICP sensor.....
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,584
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From: Millbrook Alabama
with a dremel. the up-pipe flanges on a ealry 99 are a bit different than on a late. you have to grind down some of the up-pipe flange to get the fitting in the feul port on the rear of the drivers side head.