Now that we are getting snowed out of the high country and work is slowing down, I have some issues to get cleared up on the service trucks.

1) green weenie - former Forest Service truck with 115K - 7.3 4X4 XC LB
a) Low idle after warmup - barely over 500. RPM is low enough it rattles
and hence I replaced the DMF prematurely.
b) Cracked core support - It has the three ply front leaf spring
suspension with monotube shocks and rides like a Flintstone car. Was
wondering if the heavy duty front suspensions are more prone to crack?
c) organic Valair clutch - Was at a job with the loader tractor on the back of the flat bed trailer (about 11,700# combined) and manuveuring in a tight area off road and I could smell the clutch. Is this common? I have all standard transmissions and have never smelled a clutch ever. About 10K on the Valair
d) power lumbar - put 40/20/40 seats in it with power lumbar. There was no power feed for the lumbar and I ran feeds. It makes noise but doesnt do anything. Is there polarity for these to work right?

2) 95 460 - 4X4 XC LB
a) ABS light comes on at times and sometimes not. Cycles normally when started but will come on sometimes when braking. I have driven it as much as 500 miles without it coming on and sometimes it will come on and stay on after the first brake.
b) LF axle U joint needs replaced again. Never could find ones with zerks, does anybody know of source for zerked? Also need to do the same one on the other 95

3) AJ - 97 7.3 4X4 XC SB
a) power steering pressure hoses - I know I have strong arms from rock climbing but these seem to pop off too easily. Anybody else have this problem and did you have better luck with certain brands?
b) GPR - gp check Ok. Can hear relay on first hit but wont start unless I cycle twice. Time for a Stancor relay?

4) Battering ram - 94 F350 turbo IDI RC dual with 9' service body and 36' 5T Smeal well pump hoist 4X4
a) Have had the wheel seem sluggish to turn and have had it suddenly pull to the right without moving the wheel. Have only had this truck for about 5 months and dont know any history on it. The steering dampener shock is somewhat flattened. It is a 60 axle. Any thoughts? For a 12K # truck, I think it does as good on fuel as my newer 7.3s and the power isnt bad. It does like to lay down smoke though.

5) voluntary donor - wrecked 97 7.3 E4OD 4X4 XC LB 180K
a) I bought this for parts for obvious reasons. Is there a recommended procedure for mothballing the engine for future use? I could probably only run it a short time as the rad had been in to the fan and would have to pull the rad/fan to run

Thanks for any and all input
Ron Stauffer
Montrose CO

 

Check the Throttle Position Sensor on the accelerator pedal assembly. It might be sticking.

I have over 140K on my '97, so it might just be from Forest Service abuse, I mean duty.

I have an E4OD so I can't help much on this one, but if you can smell the clutch, it is definitely slipping too much.

Yes, I believe there is a polarity issue. If the wires are hooked up incorrectly, I'd imagine the pump would act as a vacuum and try to suck out the air in the bladder rather than fill it. Or, the bladder might have a hole or tear in it so it doesn't hold pressure.

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. If the hoses are good, check the RABS unit. On my diesel, the RABS unit failed and had to be replaced. The shop found it was faulty AFTER my accident...oh well. Food for thought, my vacuum pump went out and took the power brake booster with it. Wouldn't hurt to check the booster condition either.

All I can say on this is check with the usual parts places. I've always had good luck with NAPA and AutoZone.

Not me. Mine stay connected.

ALWAYS time for the Stancor. I don't have one yet, but my buddy installed one on his rig. I have no doubt it will last forever. The -902 unit supposedly handles 12V and the -903 unit supposedly handles 15V. You might want to look into the -903 unit for your purposes.

No clue, but IIRC there is an adjustment on the worm-gear that will help take out a little slop. I don't know how much sluggishness you're talking about, but if it can't be taken up by the adjustment, it might be time for a new unit.

If all you're doing is running the engine without moving the truck, if it were mine, I'd probably remove the radiator, add hose to close the system and run it once in awhile to keep everything lubricated.

BTW...Welcome to

 

holy crap, now thats a list! i will see if i can address this.

 

oops, forgot to post the pics..... holy crap moose, beat me to the post button..lol

 

Thanks for the quick replies. Yes, its a long list but as long as these trucks run they keep running because they dont make me any money in the shop.

The green weenie has had a 500 rpm warm idle since I got it at 92K a year ago. Where is the icp sensor? Same core support cracks only they welded 1/8" angle gussets on it and then it continued to crack on the outside of the gussets. Will check hose on the lumbar and switch polarity if necessary.

Speedo is not acting up with the ABS issue. This truck still has the original rear drums at 275K but have only been turned once. I did have to grind the lip off of the outer edge of the drum when servicing so the new shoes would engage the drums properly.

I have had two power steering pressure hoses blow off right at the pump. This has been when I was hard wheelin in some tight places. This has also happened with an employee's 96.

No loose parts on the 94. It will pull when driving w/o moving the wheel. It has done it only twice but scares the crap out of ya. Steering seems to have more resistance at times than others. Its intermittent though.

Again thanks
Ron Stauffer

 

ok, the icp sensor is in the left head near the front, has 3 wires on the connector see here-


the core support is a fairly common problem, but not too common, if that makes sense. check your core support mounts at the frame, they may be rotted allowing excessive flex and vibration. mine are cracked due to 4 wheelin and flex- see pic


the drums wont affect the abs, the rust ring is normal to have appear. if the speedo is good then the rabs valve is the likely suspect, a common failure.


what does the lip on the pump look like? crisp and sharp or is it worn off? try replacing the spring clamp with a murray if you havnt already.


the 94 steer issues sounds alot like a binding box or dying pump, need more info as to exaclty what you were doing the 2 times it happened.

 

OK, can check the ICP now I know where it is. The core support is solid. Vehicles dont rust here like PA. I know, I grew up in the hills of west PA. I used to call them mountains in PA until I started doing 14.000 peaks out here.

I can swap out a rabs from the donor.

The first pull on the 94 was at about 30 mph and 100' out of a left 90 degree turn. Second time was at about 55 mph and 1/4 mile after a right turn. It is a definite pull. It is not like the 95 460 with 275K that I call the wanderer.

BTW, where is Oxford? I grew up about 10 miles off of Donegal exit of PA turnpike. Been out here for close to 15 years and dont think I will ever move back

Ron















t

 

Joe,

I may have beat you this time, but you gave some different insight. Besides, I don't have all the pretty pictures you have.

Ready, set, GO! On to the next thread. YEEEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAAAA!

 

have you had the alignment checked? caster/camber split could be out, road conditions could be enough if the alignment is off to cause it. it could be the box or the pump. thats a hard call to make without driving the truck and feeling it. is this a 4wd model? if so check the front u-joints. i had a truck once do something similar to what you describe. ended up being a frozen front u-joint causing the intermittent pull.


oxford is right on the md/pa line just north of rising sun ,md. and about an hour north of baltimore

 

Dana/Spicer makes a U-joint that takes a zerk fitting, but where it's located (in one of the "crotches"), if it's a common external zerk, it'll break off the first time you steer with the axle engaged. Precision makes one with a zerk fitting; IIRC it's on one of the end caps, and it's an "innie", requiring a needle attached to your grease gun. Either that or it's a low-profile zerk. Even the end-cap location is a tight squeeze, presuming we're talking a D50.

 

I had some time in the shop this am so did some checking on the green weenie. TPS is not sticking and unplugging the ICP sensor did nothing but put the check engine light on. It idles fine on cold start but when good and warm idle is barely over 500. If I have been running on the interstate and let it idle in neutral, it likes to rattle. I originally blamed the DMF but the problem is only marginally better after Valair install. The DMF wasnt bad. Is there any mechanical means to increase the idle? Also, both of the power lumbars had severed lines. Sleeved them with a slightly larger tube and super glue and I am in business.

My power steering pressure hoses blow off right at the pump. There is a compression fitting and cant be reset. I have gotten over a year on the second one but it might be because I am more careful not to hit the stops as hard.

The steering pull is on 4X4 60 axle but I wasnt in 4 at the time. This truck had set for 6-8 months before I bought it (wrecked but hit on the utility bed). Tires are worn even, so I wouldnt suspect alignment. The pull could best be described as someone grabbing the wheel and giving it a quick 1/4 turn.

Ron

 

Check the U joint in the axel at the steering knuckel. Mt 97 got to ducking all over the road, and the u joint was rusted up. Changed it out and ducking problem was cured.

 

But that wouldn't cause a pull while in 2WD, would it?

 

yes bad u joint will do as you say your truck is doing in 2 wheel

 

madpogue

I think also you would only get a pull from a frozen U joint when in 4wd.

Your info on zerked joints is appreciated. All my F250s have the 50 axle, just this dual F350 has the 60. I have found that the LF joint is the first to go on a 50 axle. I hope that the U joint that I put in the 95 460 at 275K will be the last. I think it is number 3. That truck wont die and I wont put it to sleep. Bought it new and still has the original motor, clutch, exhaust, starter and alternator. My plan is when it gets 300K, I am going to drive it to Tierra del Fuego and give it to some one!

Ron