When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have just purchased a 95 F-250 4x4 and noticed that, at times, the passenger side of the cab is about 1 inch lower than the driver's side (measured at the top of the fender well). I took the truck back to the dealer for them to look at and they said the leaf springs on the passenger side needed to either be replaced or re-arced. Is this true, and if so is there another way to solve this problem (helper springs?)instead of replacing or re-arcing?
First, I would look very closely at the frame on the truck. Make sure the truck isnt feeling the effects of a hard crash. If you purchased from a car lot, remember, they make more money when they lie about the history of a vehicle. If indeed you do have a week spring, your best bet is to replace BOTH sides, as Im sure the other has sagged some also. Re-arched springs tend to loose their re-arch quickly. I would deffinately look into the crash thing though, because a 95 would have to have some pretty serious punishment to have weak springs already. Plus the fact that one side is weaker than the other is rather suspect, unless there is actually a broken leaf. Hope you find something simple.
Back to the crash thing again, check out the cab mounting points, one up near the radiator, one at the rear of the front fender well and an other at the rear of the cab. For a spring check, measure from a common point at the axle up to the frame, this will let you know if the springs are sagging on one side. Seems funny that it would not be sagging all the time if the spring needs replaced or re-arched as claimed unless one leaf is indeed broken. Chuck P.
Chuck, thanks for the pointers. Before I got your message I looked at the cab mounts in front and it does appear the space between the frame and the body is less on the passanger side than on the drivers side. I'll spend more time this coming weekend and do a good look-over.
It does not appear the vehicle has been in a crash, however, I would not be so sure as to what to look for.
Terry, when you check the mounts, count the # of washers in the front most(radiator)mounts, don't know about the 95's, but on my 79 the drivers side had 6 and the pass. side only had 2. Always wondered why the pass. side sat lower! Also give a good look at the condition of the bushings. They are just rubber with "keeper" washers all around. Check the hole that the wheelwell bushings reside in, sometimes the washers pull thru, if you need to replace, do consider gettin' new hardware to go with, this will make changin' much easier. Now that I think about it, make sure all the bolts are tight and if they are, make sure the piece that is mounted to the cab is secure, although usually some type of noise comes with this. Hope you find it's something simple! Good luck this weekend, Chuck P.
PS-To check for crash damage while under there, make sure all the crossmembers are straight, no telltale signs of heat or "dents" that don't match from one side of the frame to the other. If in doubt, see if you can find another of the same year and take a look under to see if everything "matches" with yours. Hope this helps!
Chuck, thanks again for the insight. When looking at the mounting up front by the radiator it did appear that there were more washers on the driver's side than the passengers side. Also, the rubber bushings all around appear to be worn somewhat, although not too bad, and I have noticed a recent squeaking going over bumps coming from underneath the cab. I think a thorough check up is in order, like you suggest, and more than likely I will replace the bushings and install the proper amount of washers on each side of the cab. I appreciate your input.
i'm not too sure about the level of your truck... can't help you there but that sqeeking noise you hear from underneath your truck might be from the spare tire carriage under the rear of the bed. I noticed mine when a mechanic at a Ford dealer was driving my freakin truck to fast in the lot and had to break pretty hard.... when he did so... i saw my spare tire move a but making that same squeeking noise i've been hearing.
Although what you're hearing might be different... Those are just my thoughts on it...hope this helps.
Hate to dig up these old posts, but I have a similar problem - the cab (looking from the rear) seems to sit about 1-1/2 inches lower on the drivers side than the passenger side. would removing shims from the front core support on the passenger side bring the drivers side of the cab up? Wouldn't you need to shim up on the body mounts on the drivers side? This problem has been driving me nuts for a while. Any thoughts?
You may want to verify that it is the cab and not the box that is leaning. I took all measurements from the frame, the four large under the cab were all ok, cab is equal distance from the front of the door to the rear of the cab, only one that was off was under the rad. support, went by the bumper which is equal from the ground on both ends. If you have a flairside, they use wood to support/insulate the box from the frame, could be the wood done 'bout had it. If it is indeed the cab, then you may want to have a real good look at the mounting points, one or both bushings may have pushed through the mount, seems about the right height of the upper bushings. And as far as bringing up an old post, hey, at least you did try to search for what you need before posting! Plus saved me from posting the same thing twice! Let us know what you find.
Shall do. This has been bugging me for a long time though - does anyone know if someone like energy suspensions makes a polyurethane body mount for Ford trucks? By the way, it is a styleside - the box mounts right on the frame.
Yeah, that's what I have. They are a little tighter than the rubber, but for a 4x, that was the ticket. Depending on age, they can be real buggers to get apart. Had to beat the daylights out of mine to get them apart, they tend to mushroom the steel inside the bushing. The energy kit gives directions for un-mushrooming, but you better have a strong piece of steel rod and a bfh!
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.