I apologize off the top, I am not the most mechanically inclined... I have a '01 7.3 F250 with 204k, mileage is great, 17 to 20 highway. For over 2 years it has not started well and when it does it seems to miss until it warms up, then I have to "punch" it out of it. This is the third winter that it will not start without ether. Pretty sure gp working, block heater no longer seems to matter. If it were a gas I would say that when initially trying to start it is acts flooded - there is the cloud of white "whatever"... smells like raw fuel. Once it does fire, it will only run on ether for bout half a minute before it will actually run on its own, so it acts like it is not getting any fuel. I have tried every combination of gp; just turning on switch and cranking immediately, then letting gp warm, and cranking again, it would start (that stopped working now); cycling gp several times makes it act like it at least wants to start; leaving it set after initial effort, sometimes it will fire right of after bout 15 minutes.
It "acts" flooded, but just sure it is not getting any fuel.
I am at a loss, afraid I am going to blow it up just trying to start it. It is my only vehicle!

 

ffuddtoo,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

Sounds like glowplugs are burnt up to me.
The white fog looking smoke that smells like diesel is fuel that did not get hot enough to burn.
Cylinder temp has to be almost 500 degrees before diesel autoignites.

You should try the 99 to 03 Power Stroke forum, two up from here.
I was going to move this post there, but you do not have private messages enabled so I could not notify you of the move and new location.

 

I thought I had that option checked! sorry
the gp were new this spring
along with 2 injectors
still "missed" when I left with it from the Ford Dealer shop
they knew it - said nothing they could do
$2300 and still not right
how does a "for dummies" mechanic test gp??

 

Power Stroke motors have glow plugs under the rocker covers.
I can't give you a test procedure for them though, the IDI glow plugs are visible without removing parts.

If it were a 94 or older motor, I could fix you right up.

But those new fangled things have me lost as soon as I open the hood.


I will leave the title the same, but I am going to move this post to the 99 to 03 Power Stroke forum.
Those boys up there can walk you right through this I am sure.

Here is where your post will go.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum31/

Post back when you read this, after you do I will move it.

 

I understand
...the new fangled thing
I could always make my 66 LTD run - one way or another!
thanks - please move where you see fit
thanks for the quick replies!!

 

Welcome to FTE. First I'd like to advise you to STAY AWAY from ether. Nothing good will come from using that. If you need to try something, use a shot of wd-40.

First off, you need to test your GPR (glow plug relay).


You'll see 2 large posts on this. The one with the rubber boot covering it is your battery feed. Grab a multi meter, and with the key off, you should see 12 volts on this post. Then with a cold engine, turn the key on and quickly check the other large post. This post should go from 0 volts with the key off, to around 12 volts when the key is first turned on. It will stay around 12 volts for 0 - 120 seconds depending on temperatures. If no power is coming out of this relay, then your glow plugs are not getting turned on. Another way to test if this is your issue is to take a screwdriver and hold it across the 2 large posts for 45 - 60 seconds, then get in and try and start the truck. (you can ignore the wait to start light at this point).

If you want to check your glow plugs, find the flat 9 pin connector that plugs into the inboard side of each valve cover (on top of the motor near center). With the key off, carefully unplug this connector (it's plastic so don't break it) and grab your multi meter and set it to read ohms. The connector inside the valve cover will have 9 flat pins in a row. Place one lead of your meter on the battery ground, then take readings on the front 2 pins and the back 2 pins on each valve cover. These are your glow plug wires. A good glow plug should have a reading between 0.6 - 2.0 ohms.

 

Welcome to FTE.

Chris has got you covered. One more thing to add, once you do have it started, it will run sluggishly until it get warmed up. This is an intentional design, the exhaust back pressure valve will close up to put a artificial load on the engine to help it warm up faster.

 

No voltmeter available.
Used screw driver across posts, probably bout 60 seconds - no difference. It sparked pretty strong as I touched and held them across. I am pretty sure gp are working coz it acts different if I just immediately turn on switch than when I let them cycle. May not be working right...
Tried WD-40 - absollutely nothing from that, wouldn't even 'try' to fire.
When I actually get it started, it sounds like an old "Johnny Pop" two cylinder John Deere tractor! It almost won't back itself down my driveway, has no power, won't accelarate and has to be pretty warm to come out of it.
I really think there is no fuel. For the first 30 plus seconds it will not run without supplemental help. I hate using ether, but, like I said, my only vehicle and have to get it running - I know, makes no sense if I blow it up!

 

Picking up a cheap multi-meter may prove to be very useful if you want to chase this down yourself. Trucks tend to get addicted to ether, which isn't good. A properly functioning glow plug system does not react well at all with ether, as I'm sure you know.

How often do you change your oil? What about the fuel filter? Does the truck run like normal after it's fully warmed up? I'm kind of thinking you need to find a buddy with a fancy scanner, or pay a mechanic to run a buzz test on your injectors. I'm guessing you have several that will sound weak. The ones that are working would give you that popping johhny feel.

Maybe someone else has some ideas other than sticking poppets in the injectors.