Electrical starting problem
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 136
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I had a very similiear problem with my truck, I would get the click/clunk sound of the solenoid energizing but nothing from the starter. Pulled the starter and had it checked, all ok. Finally out of desperation I picked up a used starter from the junk yard and put that in and have not had a problem yet. I'm still not sure of the root cause to this day.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 313
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From: Indianapolis
I removed the cable from the solenoid to the starter. It looks to be in excellent condition. I did a continuity test and it was passing 12.98 volts from a deep cycle battery that I have for my camper.
But while I was removing the cable, I noticed that the clip to the top connector on the alternator was broken. The plug was loose and does not clip securely. I'll get another one of those connectors and put the cable to the starter back on next.
But while I was removing the cable, I noticed that the clip to the top connector on the alternator was broken. The plug was loose and does not clip securely. I'll get another one of those connectors and put the cable to the starter back on next.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28
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I had a similar problem. Removed the starter to do some other maintenance. In the process, replaced both positive and negative battery cables. Reinstalled the starter, and it did the same thing you are describing. Pulled the starter to get it tested at Auto Zone. The starter tested fine. Reinstalled the starter and still had the same problem. After running several tests that checked out good, finally pulled the starter again and cleaned the solenoid posts, nuts, and washers with a wire wheel. Reinstalled the starter and if fired right up. No problems since.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 313
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From: Indianapolis
I got it started today! Put the cable from the solenoid to the starter back on and jumped the solenoid with a plastic handled screwdriver. The problem appears to be either the solenoid or the hot wire from the ignition. I'll do a little more testing with an assistant and see if I hear the solenoid click. Shouldn't the wire from the ignition show voltage when the key is turned to start?
I did take the cover off of the steering column as well and the rod on top is moving appropriately when the key is turned. Still might be the ignition switch as well.
I did take the cover off of the steering column as well and the rod on top is moving appropriately when the key is turned. Still might be the ignition switch as well.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
YES is the answer to the question at the end of the first paragraph assuming you're talking about that little wire that slips on the solenoid. But if you don't have voltage there don't automatically assume it's the switch, there's wiring and other stuff in between. Now if you take your screwdriver and run it from the large solenoid terminal that has the other end of the positive battery cable as well as a few more smaller cables on it and run it to the small solenoid terminal that your ignition wire slips on the engine should turn over(this by the way would be the same as using a remote starter switch) showing that the solenoid is good.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 313
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From: Indianapolis
Ok, got it running. The problem is between the ignition and the solenoid. Tested the solenoid by putting 12 volts on the center post. Fired right up. Last night at 8:30 pm it was dark, cold (19 degrees) and windy. I needed the truck running. Enter the home grown starter switch. Drove over to Advance Auto Parts, got a heavy duty start button and a spool of 14 gauge wire. Tied the wires off near the battery and into the cab. Hooked up the switch, connected one wire to the solenoid and one to the positive on the battery. Turned the key, hit the button and it started immediately.
So, for now, while the weather is bad, I'll stay with that. I've read how I'll have to lower the steering column to get to the ignition switch. Is there a way to narrow down what the problem might be before that? Or is there a way to test the switch after it's out?
And I may end up keeping the start button. If so, where is a good place to go through the firewall near the steering column?
So, for now, while the weather is bad, I'll stay with that. I've read how I'll have to lower the steering column to get to the ignition switch. Is there a way to narrow down what the problem might be before that? Or is there a way to test the switch after it's out?
And I may end up keeping the start button. If so, where is a good place to go through the firewall near the steering column?
