Electrical starting problem
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Indianapolis
Electrical starting problem
My truck will not turn over. I took the starter off and had it tested at Advance Auto. Had the guy even test it a couple extra times. Fired every time. The solenoid on the fender well is new, but now I don't think the old one is bad. When you turn the key to ON the lights come on but then at the START position, nothing. It went out slowly which leads me to think that it's either a loose wire, especially a ground wire. When I did the search on the topic, there were a number of recommendations to check ground wires and connections to the alternator.
As another test, this evening I turned the key to ON and jumped the solenoid with a long plastic handled screwdriver. The battery put up a line of smoke at the positive terminal. And of course, no start.
When the rain stops I go out and check the wires, but in the meantime, does the "smoking battery" tell you anything?
Hunt4Fun
Truck is the one in signature.
As another test, this evening I turned the key to ON and jumped the solenoid with a long plastic handled screwdriver. The battery put up a line of smoke at the positive terminal. And of course, no start.
When the rain stops I go out and check the wires, but in the meantime, does the "smoking battery" tell you anything?
Hunt4Fun
Truck is the one in signature.
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Senior User
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From: Indianapolis
I do hear a click when I turn the key to start.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
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From: South Dakota
When you jump the two large solenoid terminals that should be just like a bench test for the starter. This would be assuming that all cables are clean and tight and in otherwise good condition and the battery is good and well charged. Since you had the starter tested and know it's good the problem is probably with one of the cables or connections. The smoking battery would make me think that there was a bare spot(no insulation) on the cable running from the solenoid to the starter, this bare spot would also have to touching metal to ground out. This is totally a wild guess.
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From: Indianapolis
Not wheeled it hard. Off-road just to hunt.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Indianapolis
When you jump the two large solenoid terminals that should be just like a bench test for the starter. This would be assuming that all cables are clean and tight and in otherwise good condition and the battery is good and well charged. Since you had the starter tested and know it's good the problem is probably with one of the cables or connections. The smoking battery would make me think that there was a bare spot(no insulation) on the cable running from the solenoid to the starter, this bare spot would also have to touching metal to ground out. This is totally a wild guess.
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You've got it pretty well narrowed down to the cable that runs from the solenoid to the starter.
When you mentioned smoke from the battery terminal when you jumped the solenoid, I too would have guessed a dirty battery terminal.
You have tried a different battery
You have replaced the cable from the battery to the solenoid
You have replaced the solenoid. It clicks AND you've jumped it.
I am assuming your ground is good because you had smoke when you jumped the solenoid...
All that is left is the cable that goes from the solenoid to the starter.
If you think you might have a grounding issue, get a good set of jumper cables. Connect one end to the negative battery terminal and clamp the other end somewhere on the engine block. Use only the black side of the cables. Don't hook up to B+
Q
Good luck. I hope you get it beat.
When you mentioned smoke from the battery terminal when you jumped the solenoid, I too would have guessed a dirty battery terminal.
You have tried a different battery
You have replaced the cable from the battery to the solenoid
You have replaced the solenoid. It clicks AND you've jumped it.
I am assuming your ground is good because you had smoke when you jumped the solenoid...
All that is left is the cable that goes from the solenoid to the starter.
If you think you might have a grounding issue, get a good set of jumper cables. Connect one end to the negative battery terminal and clamp the other end somewhere on the engine block. Use only the black side of the cables. Don't hook up to B+
Q
Good luck. I hope you get it beat.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Indianapolis
You've got it pretty well narrowed down to the cable that runs from the solenoid to the starter.
When you mentioned smoke from the battery terminal when you jumped the solenoid, I too would have guessed a dirty battery terminal.
You have tried a different battery
You have replaced the cable from the battery to the solenoid
You have replaced the solenoid. It clicks AND you've jumped it.
I am assuming your ground is good because you had smoke when you jumped the solenoid...
All that is left is the cable that goes from the solenoid to the starter.
If you think you might have a grounding issue, get a good set of jumper cables. Connect one end to the negative battery terminal and clamp the other end somewhere on the engine block. Use only the black side of the cables. Don't hook up to B+
Q
Good luck. I hope you get it beat.
When you mentioned smoke from the battery terminal when you jumped the solenoid, I too would have guessed a dirty battery terminal.
You have tried a different battery
You have replaced the cable from the battery to the solenoid
You have replaced the solenoid. It clicks AND you've jumped it.
I am assuming your ground is good because you had smoke when you jumped the solenoid...
All that is left is the cable that goes from the solenoid to the starter.
If you think you might have a grounding issue, get a good set of jumper cables. Connect one end to the negative battery terminal and clamp the other end somewhere on the engine block. Use only the black side of the cables. Don't hook up to B+
Q
Good luck. I hope you get it beat.
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 560
From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
He said he heard a click when turning the key to ON. that wouldn't be the solenoid . He heard a pair of relays pulling in on the drivers side. Is the small wire from the Ign. switch that spring clip connects to the small post on the starter solenoid clean & securely attached to the Terminal marked S?? I think you need break....no, a hunting trip. A mechanical safari! See if you can track down the Neutral Safety switch and when you do, bypass it and see what happens.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Indianapolis
He said he heard a click when turning the key to ON. that wouldn't be the solenoid . He heard a pair of relays pulling in on the drivers side. Is the small wire from the Ign. switch that spring clip connects to the small post on the starter solenoid clean & securely attached to the Terminal marked S?? I think you need break....no, a hunting trip. A mechanical safari! See if you can track down the Neutral Safety switch and when you do, bypass it and see what happens.
The neutral safety switch has been replaced. The old one was definitely bad as it had lost its spring action which the new one has. Small wire from the ignition switch is clean and attached securely to the S terminal.
I'm not sure what you mean by saying "I think you need break....no, a hunting trip. A mechanical safari! " Either just making a joke or being sarcastic or insulting. I can't tell which, but I'll take it as making a joke.
Hunt4Fun
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Renton, WA
The lights dimming when trying to crank is an indication that the battery is being drawn on so there is a connection threw the stater. But the dimming indicates that the battery or connections between the battery and silenoid are bad.
The next thing to do is grab a voltage tester and connect it to the battery posts (not the cables) and try to crank, If the voltage drops below 9 the battery is to weak. If the voltage stays up then connect from pos battery post to the silenoid termenal, and try to crank, this will measure the voltage drop (resistance) across the cable with a load, it should not go over 1 volt.
Give this a try and let use know what you find.
The next thing to do is grab a voltage tester and connect it to the battery posts (not the cables) and try to crank, If the voltage drops below 9 the battery is to weak. If the voltage stays up then connect from pos battery post to the silenoid termenal, and try to crank, this will measure the voltage drop (resistance) across the cable with a load, it should not go over 1 volt.
Give this a try and let use know what you find.
Freshman User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
The lights dimming when trying to crank is an indication that the battery is being drawn on so there is a connection threw the stater. But the dimming indicates that the battery or connections between the battery and silenoid are bad.
The next thing to do is grab a voltage tester and connect it to the battery posts (not the cables) and try to crank, If the voltage drops below 9 the battery is to weak. If the voltage stays up then connect from pos battery post to the silenoid termenal, and try to crank, this will measure the voltage drop (resistance) across the cable with a load, it should not go over 1 volt.
Give this a try and let use know what you find.
The next thing to do is grab a voltage tester and connect it to the battery posts (not the cables) and try to crank, If the voltage drops below 9 the battery is to weak. If the voltage stays up then connect from pos battery post to the silenoid termenal, and try to crank, this will measure the voltage drop (resistance) across the cable with a load, it should not go over 1 volt.
Give this a try and let use know what you find.
Q