Is there anyone using an HHO generator on there ranger for better fuel economy? I have a 1986 ranger 2.9 and i have plans to build one and try it I had one on my 1992 Lincoln town car and got 23 MPG in town.

 

Not enough money to get started yet but I've scouted a huge amount of material. I'd suggest (with PWM): http://www.smacksboosters.110mb.com/
Wouldn't dare pay anyone to build a generic thing for 10x what it should cost.
The whole Smack bit is derived from Bob Boyce' research which has probably been some of the best in North America for its period. There's a lot more out there. 99% of this board will scoff at anything other than what comes from a regular pump though. The PWM module or equivalent important for driving over half an hour to keep cell happy. There may be ways around that too, but PWM is easy. It varies the duty cycle generating the hydro vapor just as it would for a dc motor.
O yeah, also not sure of my stock tune yet, but it seems pretty well sorted out finally. Still takes a while to start though. A wire-tie between a plastic ferrule & the throttle body bracket helped as per rogueperformance.com & a few other websites. I just tweaked the other end as my seat makes the pedal end very hard to reach. That and air intake diagnosis, which is still stock in spirit. Having it run as close to Ford's original specs as practical sets the benchmark.

 

Thanks I built mine from the water4gas model.
just wonder how well the 2.9 reacts being it is a 1986 2.9 still have to figure out if it uses frequincy or voltage on the sensors.

 

O yeah, I don't know how I missed the January thread on Ford's big change for oil specs on most of our engines. I scoured huge tracts of the web last night chasing that one here & there & I believe it even for my old Vulcan, but my guts want to barf. That could skew the whole idea until I get that straight with mine. I read enough to believe current 5w20 mineral & synths can run my '93 anywhere I go whenever & cheaper, but I'm nearing middle age & have driven some really old stuff. But I'm also something of a modern machinist too. I've been convinced of stuff like that long ago, which keeps getting underlined every year. The German engines are exempt due to oil pumps' pickup so far.

 

That truck should be OK for the most part without adjusting the sensors much unless you built a very large cell. You should be able to tweak the timing to advance it quite a bit though. I'm sure there must be other tricks to tweaking the fuel map on the '86 Cologne. I have MAF Vulcan trivia soaking my brain at the moment, so I'm hazy on it.

 

Man I have some other questions later but your experience is awsome send me a message with your email if you dont mind I willl share any results with you. could use all the resorces i can get.

 

I have a problem wioth the map rite now i think tends to flood a little and shake and stall so i need to fix that before i hook it up . the fuel pump i put in from advance auto parts is winning like a cat all the time coming thru the radio and cb even though everything is grounded . got my mad science lab out back in the snow OOO YA GO BUCK's

 

Keep us posted! There are a couple of tricks for the noisy fuel pump. Never had one that bad though so don't know what would likely be best. If it comes to that, Google it. Therangerstation.com has good write-ups on its though. In the tech articles & audio/other.

 

It has really panned out for anybody yet https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...on-thread.html

 

Hey Waynebo, those guys spook me. As I said, I have done a lot of reading of the stuff. There's not enough reading online of others' successes & failures, so repeating the same process. No bubblers, using unspecified allthread, mere baking soda for electrolyte. Great way to give it the worst rep possible. I also figure on feeding the gas to the air intake hose close to the throttle body rather tham the usual waterforgas version of adding it to the intake vaccum as though doing a seafoam treatment. Doing that can suck the cell dry & implode it, or at least the bubbler(s) I suggested. Which could also hydrolock the engine from sucking the cell dry of the water as well. One thing it can inargubaly do is obsolete the whole concept of periodic decarboning. The hydroxy does that continually.

 

Ok, not as bad as Patrick Norton did on Systm (viewbale on Youtube, Vuze his site, etc).

 

YouTube - 14 LPM hydroxy cell Bob Boyce design
Pretty cool demo here. That is a lot of hydroxy gas. Also an expensive & involved build with tight machining & engineering specs. There should be a 3-phase custom coil that should cost a couple grand to have made. But not much in parts for those with the patience. For a booster on typical Ranger engine, the gasoline should still be leaned drastically & the timing should probably be bumped via retarding the cam itself or the engine simply would not run at all well IF at all. The guy in the vid probably has koh in distilled water with the plates well-conditioned. Now to get sleep & start next day.
The monoatomic hydro ignites much faster than conventional fuels once its critical flashpoint is hit, so ignition timing should be adjusted with varying gas mix & stoichiometric readings using a air/ fuel gauge. Ehh, too much science for a sleepyhead.

 

O, he just built the cell pretty much without the harmonic cracker, so he'd be getting h2+o like most folks rather than Boyce' h+h+o. Also, I believe all the newer Fords have a serious issue that limits effectiveness of these systems & that's the EDIS waste-spark. Retard the timing enough after you defeat the ECM & crank sensor, the waste spark should find something it can ignite. Any number of radical tweaks for that, but none easy. Further, Boyce is reported to have run his little former hybrid on straight hydroxy without gasoline. He achieved over-unity. It would also be possible on our trucks with much larger cells & a couple of 200A alternators, but I'd just use one as a booster with an adjustable fpr and fancy sensor overrides, CAI, etc. One more thing is that when the hydroxy starts replacing enough of the gas, all that oxy mixed with watery exhaust will rust the stock engine guts & the exhaust, so ss cyclinder sleeves, moly rings, full ss exhaust, optionally scrap the cats, etc become important. I like the Boyce/ Smack as boosters best for our autos and the observation that the gasoline gets things moving with its cooler ignition point which then launches the rocket fuel. Confusing part is that reatarding the timing indicates hydoxy starting to ignite before tha gas...

 

from what i have heard the waist spark is not a real problem being it is on the exhaust stroke.

 

I have no clue what you fellers are talking about, but it sounds interesting.