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Pinging is still there

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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 06:15 AM
  #16  
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Jeff Dodson
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From: Angleton Tx.
I dint think it does, someone on here asked before if I converted it to MAF. As I said, it is BONE STOCK.

I must tell you. I sound like I dont know squat about cars, trucks, I do but I grew up with Chevy's and Mopars"s, Fords are greek to me. Not that I dont like them, I like the trucks, Buuuttttt...!!!,
 
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 05:15 PM
  #17  
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From: Imperial, MO
I would assume that your truck would have had one from the factory. My 95 F150 does, but I'm not as familiar with the F250's. Take a look at your air filter box. If there is an aluminum cylindrical housing bolted to it which the air intake tube connects to, then you have one.

A very common source of pinging/detonation with these Fords is a dirty MAF sensor.

-Rod
 
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 06:02 PM
  #18  
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1966Tbird
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um is it possible that your ballancer has spun and you think your timing is at 5* but it's really at like 15*? it's not as uncommon as you might think. try putting on a new ballancer and i bet that would be the problem
 
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 08:10 PM
  #19  
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From: Renton, WA
Jeff, lots of good suggestions here but one thing conserns me most. You said that putting in 91 octane doesn't help. Going from 87 to 91 should have an effect on almost any pinging (that's what octane is). I know you are hearing what your hearing but are you sure it's a ping.

That said there are three things I would try/check. First is to cut the cat off and replace it with temporary pipe and see if it helps. Im not familar with your trucks exhaust but if any exhaust shop has made a Y sometimes they do a bad job and it gets to restrictive. And check your timing marks, find true TDC. This is easier then you may think ask and I'll explain.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 09:25 PM
  #20  
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Jeff Dodson
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From: Angleton Tx.
Its the clatter that sounds like timing is to far advanced. I had a Chevy truck that I had built and to get it to pass emissions, I had to limit the jetting on it so far and retard the timing to TDC to get it to pass emissions test, then I would put all back the way I built it.

I know its the same clatter, only thing is, I have not been able to correct it because this thing is computer operated with fuel injection and all that stuff. My Chevy was not (Man Chevy's are so simple)

Any way, There was apparentlt two different types of sensors, MASS AIR FLOW, I was told was an up grade I could do, and there was another, I dont remember what it was. I dont know what this has on it but it does have the aluminum housing where the air intake connects, I was just unsure if it was the MAF or another type of intake system. I know I am sounding like I dont know squat about vehicles, but actually I do, I'm just more of an OLD SCHOOL mechanic. havnt had much desire to learn how to build with this computer stuff, I just want the truck to run correctly.

I have looked at he balancer, I dont think that has slipped, I ran across that on the Chevy and found ot wasnt the problem, but have seen one slipped, I dont think this is the case here.

I need to check the MAF and the EVR and I am thinking of pulling the CAT, will it throw codes if I remove it permanantly? As far as the exhaust, its stock, it has two pipes that run parallel into a flange that the CAT bolts up to and the rest of the exhaust runs from there
 
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Old Dec 9, 2008 | 06:20 AM
  #21  
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From: Imperial, MO
Jeff, you have a MAF. Give this a try. It's a 10 minute job at most.

www.tccoa.com/articles/intake/mafclean.html

If you don't have a T-20H tamperproof torx bit, you can just remove the complete MAF sensor housing from the air filter box (just entails removing four nuts) and spray the wires with electrical parts cleaner.

-Rod
 
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Old Dec 9, 2008 | 06:52 AM
  #22  
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From: Angleton Tx.
WOW, Thanks, I will definately try this
 
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 01:28 PM
  #23  
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From: Angleton Tx.
No MAF SENSOR, Only the two tubes runs from the intake to the air filter box
 
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 01:05 PM
  #24  
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From: Angleton Tx.
Well for those that are following this post, I changed the PCV valve, it looked original, I changed the O2 Sensor, and drove it and it still had the clatter.

I knock the timing down to 5* as did another guy on this board and the clatter is just about all gone. I gues I will just leave it at that. Maybe I will try the timing again when I get the CAT taken off, but for now, I think I will be safe with the timing set lower. I dont wanna burn a cylinder.

One thing I do notice, the Police Crown Victorias that we drive in our agency has the same clatter when you get on it hard, even new, but a whole worse. anyway, I appreciate everyones help in the matter
 
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