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how hard can it actually be to fab a 3 link suspension so a guy can install those air shock coil over springs on the front of the truck I have seen a few in all the off-road mags and the fabrication it self looks to be pretty simple thing to make. what do you guys think ???
Well, look at it this way, my '79 F-150 already has a 3-link set-up stock. The trac-bar is the first (or third depending on how you look at it) and keeps the front end located left-to-right, the second and third (or first and second) are the radius arms, one on each side, these locate the axle front-to-rear. The only thing the springs do is hold up the front end. This should be the basic set-up along with strong coil-over mounts, doubt if I would put that much faith in the shock mounts (stock) themselves. I have seen rod-ends used for the radius arms in conjunction with DOM tubing, in an older pre-79 F-150, these were bolted top and bottom of the axle, the rear had the rod-ends in what looked like 1 1/4" or so. I didn't think it had a great amount of articulation except when both sides moved evenly straight up and down due to the basically solid mounts on the axle. I'm sure it tracked on-road much better though. I have a rod-end trac-bar on mine and can't say enough about the improvement in handling, I think the front end also "twists" a little better, no binding in the trac-bar when the axle "rotates" up of down with suspension movement.
the TTB or IFS is alot like a 3-link already but I would like to install a solid axle with some wicked articulation Fox Shox and Race Runner make the air coilover shocks with up to 14" of travel I would fab some new shock mounts and have to fab a new steering linkage but that isn't that hard. As for the tracking arm for left to right movement i would weld a mount on top of the differential and one to the frmae rail. The replacement for the radius arms I was thinking a 2x4x3/16 thick cold formed steel with the urethane bushings mounted to the some fabricated mounts like the radius arm mounts already there just HD and weld a mount to the new solid axle to eliminate front to back movement. Brakelines i would have them run down the length of the frame to the radius arm and put a rubber flex coupler at the pivot point and run steel line up the radius arm to the caliper and use rubber line for the caliper that way under maximum articulation the brake lines would not stretch at all
Sounds like a great plan!! Couple of thoughts for you, the radius arms should be as long as possible and frame mounting point dropped slightly, longer they are-less drop needed, this was always one of the cons of the TTB, them stubby little arms just don't allow the axle to droop. For the brakelines, mine just drops from the frame to the center of the pumpkin (in braided stainless of course!) and then has hard lines from a "T" to the ends at the spindles, rubber hose from there to the caliper, can't find anyone who carries stainless braided for this as each side is an assembly of hardline and rubber hose. For articulation, always thought rod-ends on both ends of the raduis arms would be the ticket, this way the front end could do the "twist" though it's full travel much easier. The track bar should be fine, just try to get close with the angle of the bar in relation to the steering draglink (the one that goes from the pitman to tie rod) angle, this will help keep bump-steer to a min. by allowing both to move in the same plane. If I think of anything else for you, I'll post it, really sounds like a very interesting project to say the least!
I'm thinking about converting the rear of my 79 4x4 to a 4 link/coil setup. I've also been thinking of using coil overs instead of coils springs, the only drawback (for me) is cost. I'd use 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" DOM tubing and rod ends. Always looking for more flex.
I went to the local fab shop that builds rock crawlers he showed me some pictures if his work and I made alot of mental notes and put them right to paper after I left. What I want to do is find some here in AZ that knows more about this but I want to do the work the price these fab shops want is crazy besides I have a arc welder and a mig welder and all the grinders and torch if needed I know what I want it is just a matter of getting startted and keeping the new axle square or everything will be all messed up driveline angles aren't a problem I have figured those out in the past when installing lifts on other vehicles. Since I am only going to run my 35's on the truck will a Dana 44 hold up? But I am hunting down a high pinion Dana 60 for this
which I believe came stock on the F350's. As for the cost of the air coilover shocks they are aprox $225.00 each from Fox Shox. I am going to get a hold of Race Runner to see the cost on theirs. I don't think this is going to be a just a weekend project to get this done but I am going to prefab all my parts so it will be as close to a bolt up project as possible.
Visit to the fab shop was an excellant idea Chris.
The 44 will hold up to the 35's if not punished to hard, a 60 would be better but will be almost twice the unsprung weight (and are getting harder to find), just something to keep in mind for shock valving purposes. A good truss will help quite a bit, which I'm sure you'll have no problems making. With the coilovers, I think you may want to consider limiting straps, call 'em cheap insurance! Don't want the weight of the axle/tires hanging on the coilover mounts. Other thoughts, for the steering a "high cross" set-up, with the tie-rod on top of the spindles and the drag-link taken to the spindle for the most length possible, this will give the least amount of left-right wheel movement when cycling the suspension and help with angles. If you have to modify the draglink with any bends for drop, then large gussets on the inside of the bends, like you see with rollcages, only longer, safety thing.
If you can post any pics, I know one guy that will be checkin' them out with a lot of interest Well, that's it for now, let us know how it all comes together and again, if I think of anything else, you'll see it here.