The plow may not go on it til next winter... who knows. it will be used to make a little side money, but thats it... It may never get a plow... but i would like one, but i have to finish the race car before i put a bunch of money in this truck. I just need a good Daily Driver. I will look into the power steering and make sure its got fluid and what not tomorrow... I plan on getting a temp tag for it tomorrow, so then i can actually drive ti and learn more about it. But first things first, and that will be to look into that headlight smoking. If i do end up driving it this week, I will need the head lights on so I need to figure that out....

Thanks for the help guys. I will update this tommorow as I know more.

 

LMC part # 47-3662 $29.95

For you, and anyone else that might need the part numbers for the headlight relay kit.

 

Well it was low on power steering fluid... Put some itnit, and it is no longer making any noise but the exhaust leaks. My brake lights are no long on in the dash ethier.. Think it fixed it. Drove it to school today. Headlights didn't smoke yesterday when I had the dash apart, but I think I'm going to put the relay kit in it anyway... Thanks guys. Going to get a price quote on tires tonight. It's nice having the hook up... Roughly 25% off...

 

I was thinking the same thing.

 

Matt
I'm running a 94 F350 crew cab with the 460 and tow our Gen 1 race truck on a 18ft dovetail trailer all the time. 16.5x35 BFG All Terrains. They handle the weight fine. I've run them on a number of different trucks and had real good luck.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...trucks-23.html

Heres a look at the rig during a trip last summer from Phoenix to KC Mo. for lightning fest.
Mike

 

Thanks Mike. I plan on keepin the stock rims which are 16s, and going with similar in size as the 33s, but its between All Terrains and Mud Terrains... I dont know yet.



Also my ABS and Brake light go on and stay on at times. Would that be caused by two different size tires, fronts are a little taller than the rears?

No smoke tonight on the way home either out of the head light switch... I like the truck more and more... but those exhaust leaks are annoying... but i dont have time to fix them right now.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Got a price on some tires today..... 901 bucks for 315/75/16 Big O Big Foot ATs

I like the tires... we have them on our jeep just smaller size.

315/75/16 measures up to be almost identical to a 35x12.5x16. My question is, am i going to have any problems with rubbing with these tires? The first page has the height of my truck.

 

How relieable are the factory Oil Pressure Gauges? Mine stopped showing anything today. i put maybe 15-20 miles on it after the gague went to zero. I would think 15-20 miles with no oil pressure would have been enough to completely ruin the engine. I dont hear any extra rod knock or anything. It is a worry... I cant hear much over the exhaust leaks. Is this a common problem with these trucks? I might buy an autometer oil pressure gauge tommorow and mount it in the cabin just for grins and make sure it works... or take the one off of the race car and just test it.

I dont think that running a heavier oil will unstick the gauge, but that is something i am willing to try too if i cant find anything else wrong.

Opinions? Also do the front clips of these unbolt allowing you to slide the engine forward and out. I am prepared for the worst, and am not scared to rebuild it if needed, but it will sit for a few months before i have any money.

 

It's been said they are next to worthless, and buy a mechanical gauge.
I still don't understand why you'd drive 20 miles with no oil pressure indicated.

Winter's here, running a thicker oil will just take longer to reach the bearings that need it most on startup.
(that's how I killed my engine last year)

Getting the rad support out is a lot of work.
The engine is heavy but comes out on a cherry picker without clearance issues once the hood is off.
Putting all the body shims and stuff back right so the truck is straight is a PITA in my experience.

 

I really had no choice but to drive it home... I made sure the stereo was off and the heat to so I could hear it.
I will check to make sure the truck still has enough oil in it before I drive it to school today, but I will drive it today as well. I don't see how an engine with no oil pressure is going to run well for more that a mile or so.

I can understand the thicker oil issue, but I let all my vehicles warm up for atleast two minutes before ever driving it. Without a load on the engine the bearings have a better chance of staying strong. I know it's not the best thing ever, but that's a risk I'm willing to take.

And taking the engine out the top would only be a problem because the cherry pickers I have used would not be tall enough.

I hope i dont come across as an arrogant *** hole... I am open to suggestions. But the engine has not shown any signs of failure yet. Guess we will find out in time. I know I can get a used 460 for around 500 bucks or hell i could even transplant in a 7.3 Powerstroke... I dont really want to do this work, but I have winter break coming up if needed. I will check the oil level today and if its good, i will fire it up and see if the thing is makin any more noise with the hose and if not... i will take it to school.

 

for the brake light if your master cylinder isn't full of fluid the lights will come on just put some fluid in it and they should go out, and i don't think your correct about your mustang's brakes not working if the power steering isn't full lol i've built/worked on a few of them and know that the power steering isn't connected to the brakes because we pull it out haha power steering is for girls on cars anyway! hahaha so is AC, both suck too much power and weigh too much, rip them out and you might get another 10th

and yeah i agree about the oil pressure lol i'm putting my nitrous kit off my race car on my truck to take it to the track for ****s and giggles and if i blow up the motor i can get a 5.0 out of a junk yard for $300 and swap the top end + cam on/in it, or a 351 for $400 i'd probably stick with the 5.0 though cause i've got my heads done and the intake is ported and won't fit onto a 351 because of the differance in deck height

 

Matt,

You don't come off as an A-hole....

Things happen beyond our control, drive it if you must.
Mine had very low pressure for awhile, that's why I was running heavier oil. (over 300k miles, 'ya wonder?)
Came out one bitter morning and it started banging before I let off the key.
My point about thicker oil is that most wear occurs in the first *seconds* after startup. Warming it up isn't doing anything to combat this.

Your truck doesn't really look that high.???
The hoist I used wasn't anything special...
Judging by the rust on the bumper you'll likely find some at the bottom of the radiator support as well. (just a heads up)

Good luck with your new truck!

 

On 315/75/16s the truck sits up pretty high, but I am not sure if the picker I use will be high enough, but if it needs replaced I'll figure it out.... I drove it to school today, and no problems but sliding around everywhere. I checked the oil to see if it was hot after going to lunch. It was just warm. It's 20 degrees outside so that could be an issue. But no extra noises yet. I may park it tonight and take another car to work. Any thoughts?

I agree powesteering and a/c are not needed in a race car.... I'm putting a carbed 351 in it so I have not done much to the 4.6 in it...

 

I drove mine for many thousands of miles with the oil idiot light flickering on at hot idle.
(on an '87 there are two oil pressure sensors, the light comes on at something like 6Psi)

Why don't you get that mechanical gauge and really see if you have a problem?

 

It's on the list to do Tommorow. I got to work tonight, and it's been snowing like crazy.