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I had my engine rebuilt and made into a 390. In putting in new clutch I am having trouble as the adjustment is off. I am at the end of the adjustment and it needs a little more.
It was in the middle of the adjustment with old motor and old clutch. The flywheel was perfect before, so no turning.
Is the crank shorter on the back of engine? Do I need a different flywheel?
Any help is appreciated. This is on a 66 F100 with a NP435 trans.
No the crank is the same length as the 352 and the flywheel is the same too. Did you get the right clutch? Because that is the only variable I see here.
Yes I even put back in the one from before. Something is different. I am about to remove tranny again and measure the distance from back of block to end of crankshaft.
Reverse the motor mounts and now the engine is not sitting in the right place for the mechanical clutch linkage?
Take a look at your tranny mount and see if it's pushed towards the back or front?
Just throwing stuff out there.
I had issues after doing the 390 for my highboy - are you SURE the flywheel wasn't surfaced? Maybe the original flywheel had a step in it for the clutch plate? Or used the wrong one?
With everything assembled, the lever that sticks out of the side of the bellhousing, is it parallel with the back of the engine block? Or is it more towards the back of the vehicle?
I assume you mean the adjustment is OUT as far as it goes?
Yes - but some FE engine blocks were not intended to use one...
There are also 2 types of block plates. Early plates just had the cam plug hole cut out as the blocks hyd lifter galleys used press in cup plugs thru 68. 69 and later blocks used threaded plugs in the blocks oil galleys and required the block plate to have holes drilled in those locations so it would sit flush to the back of the block. If that's the interference problem just mark and drill holes thru the block plate.
And true early engines used no block plate. I forget when they started? 60 or 62?
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