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Magnafluxing will find cracks the human eye can't see alone. The piston face comes up out of the cylinder at TDC within .030" or so to the head, the ring is much wider than that, so it is very possible and feasible after looking at the pics, part of the rings have been sam'iched between the piston and head. Something has to give, and even though the piston is aluminum, i'd still check the heads.
Just looked at the head for the passenger side. Looks like there are dents in the head, no obvious cracking between the seats. Wonder if the heads can be decked. I have seen manuals saying not to deck them. That may get expensive.
You can deck them, but be careful about valve protrusion. Take too much off, and the valves may come down and smack the piston on the way out. See how much needs to come off first. The Ford shop manual says not to deck them, but im sure taking .010 if using .010under pistons wouldnt hurt a non-performance build
how much have you paid for tanking and fluxing strokin/anyone else?
Just curious
Chad
They "cleaned" my block after boring, for $50-75 for just the block. Magnafluxing the heads, IIRC cost my buddy about $100, only to find out he couldn't use them because they were cracked.
They have an UV dye that Maybe I could find to use myself cheaper. I know I should be paranoid about the heads, but trying to keep down the cost and still get away with a good build. It's something to think about i suppose.
which rods? connecting or push? push are organized and I've only removed two connecting with the pistons, which I need to mark out correctly. May not get much done tomorrow, we have a big cold front showing up in the morning.
So that's what's giving you all the practice at pulling your engine. I just checked, and heads are like 540/head. Not that bad, and I have seen used pull sets that have been fluxed for less than that. If the bores can be saved with overbore or sleeving, may be easier to get a new passenger head instead of decking both and replacing seats in one.
Sucks, my truck looks like that again. Ive got it down to a science now, i know every nut and bolt size, only took me a little over 2.5 hours to pull the motor out and have it on a stand lol.
Kris-
You've got your motor pulled again? Been watching for a thread that says it's up and going good, but haven't seen it yet. What's going on with it?
You've got your motor pulled again? Been watching for a thread that says it's up and going good, but haven't seen it yet. What's going on with it?
Yeah, kinda.
It was up and running good, but i found some information out that the rods can only be installed one way correctly, and i wanted to be on the SAFE side with my VERRY expensive motor, so i pulled it apart again, i am going to measure it this time, and then match oil clearances etc, and then put it back together correctly this time. A set of coated rod bearings, headgaskets and fire rings came today. Also the WRONG size turbo.
It was up and running good, but i found some information out that the rods can only be installed one way correctly, and i wanted to be on the SAFE side with my VERRY expensive motor, so i pulled it apart again, i am going to measure it this time, and then match oil clearances etc, and then put it back together correctly this time. A set of coated rod bearings, headgaskets and fire rings came today. Also the WRONG size turbo.
Dude that sucks!! But I'm like you, better to be safe than sorry. Especially with the dollars you've got into it now. I didn't realize that they had to go in a specific way either. Good to know for the future. Best of luck and hope it is going back together well.