Yes, 5/16 or 8mm 12 point socket. At this point, you have 3 options on the turbo pedistal.

1. You can rebuild it with a kit from Bob Riley on The Diesel Site. I believe it's $140....I think.

2. You can pull the plunger/spring/ rod, and tap the the rod hole and plug it. Then unplug your EBPV solinoid. Which leaves the butterfly flapping about. You can pull it off and put freeze plugs in the rod holes of the exhaust housing, or weld them closed. Thus leaving you with the EBPV delete mod.

3. Call Ron back and get the EBPV delete pedistal and exhaust housing, for a clean install.

But if you do nothing with it, it will still leak. So yes, I would worry about it.

And for the up pipes, if you have new ones, you can just cut the pipes and bolts to get them off if they give you a hard time. Most up pipe kits have the hardware. Just make sure of what you have before hacking away.

Then, during reinstall, leave the bolts just snug at the manifolds to allow you to wiggle the y collector during install of the turbo. This will make it alot easier to stab that pin correctly that's on the collector. Hope that helps.

 

my pedestal was leaking from where the ebpv rod comes out, but i cant find the orings for them, ford didnt sell them only the whole pedestal. and same with the international dealer where i am at, and they both wanted 300 bucks for a new one, so i said screw it and put it back together and disconnected the sensor, if it leaks real bad i will deal with it then, but for now it hardly leaks

 

Bob Riley at www.dieselsite.com sells the rebuild kits. But you can gut it, tap the hole, and plug it with a brass plug and forget it for free. Just FYI.

 

I bet they are quite similar to your's.


BlackJeep,

My passenger side up-pipe pulled right out of the y-collector. You might want to try that. The bolts would be easier to get out. All I had to do was unbolt them from the manifold and pull them out. I replaced them with a set of used ceramic coated bellowed uppies.

Now is the time for you to clean up the valley while you can see and have room to do it.

I found that a bungee cord is like a second set of hands when getting the uppies on.

 

Thanks for the advice. Dieselsite is closed for the holiday, so the re-build kit is not in the cards right now. I may just leave it alone, possibly unplug it so it won't wear anymore. Anyone considering gutting their unit should pay attention to this warning on the Dieselsite web page for the non-ebpv pedestal. See below.

Q. If I disconnect the sensor, some say this will throw a code ,so they remove the turbo, cut the actuator rod off, and tap the hole in the pedestal and put a plug in it with the sensor still plugged. Is this "ok" to do?

A. If you simply plug the hole and leave the sensor plugged in, you may cause yourself the loss of a turbo from lack of oil flow. Let me explain. The same feed port that feeds the turbo bearing is feeding the EBV piston. There is one supply port and one return port in the pedestal. When the EBP sensor sends the signal to the pedestal to shut the valve,which is not there in this case, the oil dumps off to the return port in the pedestal with no resistance. This is the same return port as the one for the turbo. The piston separated the two when it is was properly used from the factory. Basically, while the valve is being actuated or attempted to in your case the turbo gets no oil or very little. The turbo bearing is the highest place in the engine for oil to travel and it will follow the path of least resistance. If you remove this piston in the pedestal, you MUST not allow computer control of the valve any longer. You must disconnect the sensor from the pedestal. Yes, you will get a code (not a light) telling you the valve is non-operational, but it's the only way to do it.

 

If you don't want to gut it there's another option....when all else fails. LOL Pull the pedistal, and take the plunger spring and rod out. As well as the solinoid. Clean it well. Then take some scotch brite or fine sand paper and scuff the inside of the barrel. Basicly like honing a cyclinder. Most likely the oring and plunger have worn themselves into a grove and is letting it leak. Once you have the barrel nice and shiney with no groves (remember the object is to smooth it out, not remove material) check the plunger oring out real good. If it looks good, proceed. Now take carb cleaner or the like and blow through all the little passage ways in the ped. Then follow it with air.

Now, make sure the orings on the solinoid are still in good shape, lube them with some fresh oil and install it in the ped. Now, lube the plunger oring with fresh oil, and rub oil in the barrel so there's not any dry spots and reinstall the plunger and spring how it came out.

With any luck, this will cure a leak for a while.....maybe for good. I'm not saying this is the right thing to do, but in a pinch, that's what I would do. Other than gutting it, taping it, and unplugging it. Just my opinion, and I still hope it helps. LOL

 

Thanks Rubberduck, I'll let you know how things go.

John

 

I'd call Ron at Ron's Turbo Service. SUPER fast shipping!! Pedestal & non-EBPV outlet housing for $145. I didn't see one listed, but call him and ask. I just got one from him, but customized for the van turbo setup....

eBay Store - ronsturboservice salt lake city:

 

I went with Rons, and yes he is the man!! Afterward, I gutted and plugged my stock pedistal, which took me all of freakin 10 minutes LOL.

 

Quick question, how much is a new stock turbo w/ wicked wheel from Ron's turbo service? How much for a slightly 'better' than stock replacement?

 

About $750, IIRC. "SuperTurbo" from Ron (just a stock turbo with a 1.0 exhaust housing and ported compressor housing) is about $1300. Do you need another turbo? I should have a good stock pulled turbo here shortly (putting the van turbo in). PM me if you want to work a deal. It'll be stock, but with a WW. You could rebuild it if you want (easily done with hand tools) with a kit from Ron for $100.

 

So this morning I busted my A#%! for over an hour trying to get the Y-pipe to line up with the turbo inlet and get the clamp on!! Geez this seems hard to do.

I have the driver side up-pipe still removed and the Y-pipe clamp on the passenger side loose, so I can move the Y around. It just doesn't want to "drop in" place. I got frustrated and pulled it back out. Of course when it's out I can drop it right in place. I'm planning to give it another try in an hour or so.

Any tips that might help?

Thanks, Happy Thanksgiving all!!
John

 

Did you get it done?
I had my turbo off this evening to change out the stock .84 A/R exhaust housing with 1.0 WG ATS one from Ron's Turbo Service. I had the turbo out and back bolted on in less than 3hrs. I had to tweak the WG arm (got bent in shipping)and had a little trouble with the Y clamp also. I hadn't loosened it up at the manifold ends, but managed to get it lined up and on by raising up on the front of the turbo for the dowel to "fall into place". I will finish her up in the morning. Install spider and air intake plumbing. I stopped for dinner and some quality time with my wife.

 

Roland,

I wish I was a quick as you! :-)

I resorted to lifting the turbo and turning it 90 degrees to put the Y pipe on the back of it. After tightening the clamp I turned it back into position and slid it onto the passender side up pipe, which was still in place. I had the driver side up pipe still removed. Since then I slide the driver side pipe back into place and just have to tighten the up pipe clamps where the new donuts are. I can easily get to three of the bolts from the underside of the truck. The upper bolt on the passenger side is a bit harder to get to.

I expect to have it back on the road today. I had to take a turkey break yesterday, then I didn't feel much like working.

John

 

Seems to me that a simple resister mod on the plug for the solinoid would eliminate the light.
That way you could unplug the solinoid and still have the ECU think that it is plugged in.