I think I have my turbo almost out, but I'm not sure of a few things. I have a few photos below showing where I left off tonight.

The intercooler pipes, sensors, wires etc. have all been removed. The two clamps for the exhaust in & out have been loosened to where they are almost falling off. The two bolts that mount it to the pedestal have been loosened all the way out. The turbo wiggles a little, but seems to be hanging on. Am I missing something that needs to be removed?








Also, I was wondering what this is in the photo below? Is this the EBPV? Most of the liquid around it it from the Kroil for loosening the bolts, but some soot or oil has been leaking in the area (very little). Does this need to be disconnected?



Thanks!
John

 

John you are correct it is the ebpv. The rod has a clip that you can see in the photo. I used a pair needle nose pliers to move the clip towards the drivers side. Just don't forget to reattached the rod before you tighten up the turbo mounting bolts.
Jrod

 

Here's a good look at that clip holding the EBPV actuator rod. Like Jrod said just slide it back and push the rod down and off the valve tang pin.

Side View:




Underside:

 

Do what Jarod said. And take all the clamps off and take the two bolts out of the turbo and lift it up. Might have to turn it one way or another, but it will come out.

Why are you doing this?

 

Thanks for the close up photo of the clip, I couldn't get my head in there to see what I was doing!

I'm replacing the turbo for a couple of reason. First, I've been trying to figure out why I get low boost for the 6 or 7 months that I've owned the truck. It only makes about 9 lbs of boost with a SC tuner set to tow performance and the wastegate disconnected. Without the tuner and with the wastegate hooked up you're lucky to get 4 lbs, can't haul my trailer (9k) up a mole hill.

So while I was under the hood this week replacing the UVC harnesses, GP's and gaskets, I tried to wiggle the turbo shaft with my needle nose pliers. That made up my mind. I can wobble the shaft around enough that the compressor wheel hits the walls. So between the dusted wheel and the worn out bearings, I decided it was time for a rebuilt turbo. I ordered a rebuilt stock unit with the Banks wheel and upgraded bearings from Rons. It should be here tomorrow.

John

 

John, protect that rebuilt turbo and upgrade your filter setup if you have the stock air box. I was lucky that all I had was a dusted impeller and no play in the shaft. I replaced the the stock air box with the 6637 filter and have been happy so far.
Jrod

 

Very good advise.

 

Already done.. Too late for this turbo, but the new one will have fresh air to breath.

Here's the old one...



Thanks for the help,
John

 

Your welcome. I was replacing my turbo about a month ago and had to call on the great people here at FTE when I couldn't figure out how that clip worked. They bailed me out. When I got the pedestal off I just had to take some pics. Good luck with the new turbo but I hope you don't need any. More BOOSHT is on the way.

 

BlackJeep, also I have found on just about every turbo I've removed, the up pipe collector on the back of the turbo is seized on there with rust and soot. Normally I pb blaster the crap out of the marmon clamps and work them completely off. Next I take a long pry bar with an angled end and catch the edge of the up pipe collector flange and hit it a few times with a hammer on the end. Normally this is enough to knock it lose. And then make sure your down pipe is loose too. It's easier to do this with the turbo mounted solid. Hope that helps some. And yeah, the EBPV rod has to come off too.

 

this may or may not help
drink beer remove bolts / loosen clamps
drink another beer remove clamps
drink more curse the guy who invented the clamps
lift straight up and slide it out

finish beer

 

John,

Installing the new turbo may be more difficult. Lining up the up-pipe collector to the back of turbo can be a real PITA. If it gives you trouble loosen up the bolts for the uppies at the exhaust manifold to give you some wiggle on the collector. Spray those bolts with a generous amount of PB Blaster or the like tonight. You may be thanking yourself for it tomorrow. Got that tip from this up-pipe R&R write up by Curtis (aka Pocket). LINK

Once I got it secure I held it in place with a bungee cord until I got the clamp on. Don't get the clamp over the bungee cord like I did, it will drive you nuts. I hope it lines right up for you and everything goes easy.

 

I like your turbo Robin. . And up pipes.

 

Robin,

Wow, I wish it was that clean under my hood! Here's a picture of "ugly" after I got the rubo out tonight. This is before I removed the animal nests from the engine V.. It looks like I have to remove at least one up pipe to get the "Y" off. The seals are so bad I can almost pull it off, it flops around!! From looking under the truck it looks like the bolts on the drivers side pipe are easiest to get to. So I soaked them good with Kroil tonight. I already tried getting the Y pipe flange bolts loose at the top. They moved a little but not out. I sprayed them again too.



I was surprised when I got my turbo that it didn't have the output section (EBPV?) on it. So I guess I have to remove my old one and put it on the new turbo. Does anyone know what size those star looking bolts are? I'll have to get a socket tomorrow. I have a 10MM that I bought for another project and it's too big. I guess I should have bought the set.



On the pedestal I can see that the EBPV push rod has been leaking a bit. Is this something to worry about, should it be re-built?




Thanks again for all the help. This is a great site!
John

 

I was surprised when I got my turbo that it didn't have the output section (EBPV?) on it. So I guess I have to remove my old one and put it on the new turbo. Does anyone know what size those star looking bolts are? I'll have to get a socket tomorrow. I have a 10MM that I bought for another project and it's too big. I guess I should have bought the set.


Don't know about your other questions but the bolts should be a 5/16th's 12 point socket.