1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

chopped my windshield

  #46  
Old 06-08-2009, 07:04 AM
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I have also been following this thread, very interesting. Sorry about all the problems but I am wondering,considering how much windshields must cost, now that you have figured out where it needs to be cut why not take it someplace that might be able to cut it for you and install it when you are ready?
 
  #47  
Old 06-08-2009, 07:11 AM
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Keith
Sorry to here about your latest broken windshield.....did you happen to see the last episode of Street Customs where they were building three 55 F1oo's for Sylvestor Stallone? They showed a brief shot of them cutting the glass...with a hand held diamond cutter like you would use to cut common plate glass. What caught my eye was that they didn't cut the glass curving around the ends in one pass. It appeared that they projected a line parallel to the bottom of the glass off both ends as the first cut line. Then they must have gone back and made additional cuts on each end as required to get the proper curve around the ends. There was another show that used this same diamond cutter on flat plate glass. They said the keys were to make one continuous pass with the cutter on one side then flip it over and do the same on the reverse side. They then poured some kind of flammable liquid (lighter fluid?) and lit it.
This soften up the vinyl interlayer and then they broke the glass.
Since you have a couple broken windshields you might try this method out to see if it would work better than sandblasting.
Keep the faith you will get it!
 
  #48  
Old 06-08-2009, 12:08 PM
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The lighter fluid is used after the cuts and breaks in the glass are made. it is run into the crack and lit while pulling on the excess glass to soften and stretch the plastic center so it can be cut with a razor blade. As any stained glass artist has found you cannot sucessfully cut a curve in a piece of glass using a glass cutter. You need to cut a series of relatively straight cuts at a tangent to the curve until you get it down to a series of small points low enough to finish it off with a silicon carbide sanding belt or disk. There is a commercial glass shop just down the street from me that cuts the custom glass for most of the hot rodders around this area. Any time I see a hot rod sitting outside or inside one of the bays I stop and take a look. Watched them cut down safety glass several times. They use the same technique for flat or curved glass windows. Tempered glass cannot be recut.
 
  #49  
Old 06-08-2009, 11:43 PM
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lowdog....I Havent been able to find such a place near...still looking
No I didn't see that show too busy to watch tv but sounds interesting
did they show how deep the cut was ...was it all the way to the rubber?
or did they score & break the glass?
how big was the cutter? was it mounted on an air grinder?
 
  #50  
Old 06-09-2009, 01:19 AM
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They cut (score) both sides with a standard wheel type glass cutter like you might use to cut a piece of window glass (stained glass shops typically have high quality cutters available, but they are not expensive) then tap it or wiggle it with glass cutting pliers to crack it. Once you have cracked both sides run a small amount of lighter fluid into the crack on one side. set it on fire while pulling with the pliers until the crack opens enough to get a single edged razor blade in to cut the plastic. Blow out the flames.
Hint: score only once! Never go back over a score. Make sure the glass is very clean so the cutter doesn't slip or skip. press firmly on the cutter and move in one moderate speed stroke. Listen for the characteristic breaking ice sound as the cutter scores the glass. Ease up very slightly as you get to the edge so you don't chip it, but continue the score right off the edge. Dip the cutter wheel in mineral oil (baby oil) before and after each score, shake off lightly but do not wipe dry. Store the cutter in the oil between uses. You should have plenty of scrap glass to practice on.
 
  #51  
Old 06-09-2009, 01:51 AM
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  #52  
Old 06-09-2009, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
Keith,
Have you read this on the HAMB?
Tech: Foolproof(almost)windshield cutting - THE H.A.M.B.
That's a very good thread, one to keep in mind if your ever planning on doing a chop. One point I noticed mentioned was to cut your glass first and fit your metal to the glass, probably a very valuable point to know before hand,thanks for posting the link. Who knows, there maybe a chop in the future.
John
 
  #53  
Old 06-10-2009, 01:59 AM
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thats a good thread ax.....here's another
Chopping A 56 f-100 - THE H.A.M.B.
 
  #54  
Old 06-21-2009, 08:39 PM
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Have you made any new progress on your windshield yet? I just found my first windshield for 60 bucks and back to the drawing board i go . I have a 3 inch chop on my 56 cab and hope to find some advice from you. I test fitted the glass today after i got it and it dosent look to hard. i was thinking cutting the top of the window channel to slide it in and make my own channel up higher. we will see huh ill keep you posted
 
  #55  
Old 06-21-2009, 11:01 PM
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nordvik I dont think it will slide up.....because when the top gets shorter the window has to lean back to fit the wrap around sides,and when you lean it back it gets too narrow.
.....Where Im at right now...well I tried lexan....because some idiot said it would work
dont waste your money 300.00 a sheet. I used the 1/8 thick but the problems are
#1. It wont bend around the wrap bottom corners and stay in the rubber. If you try to heat bend it the lexan finish wrinkles and you cant see through it. I even tried to screw it in on the sides but because reason #2 the ripples on top I took it out.
#2. because the sheet is flat and the window has compound curves the glass has ripples on the top and dosent look flat.
#3 it will scratch even though I used the scratch resistant type.
 
  #56  
Old 06-21-2009, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by keith56_cruz_cab
nordvik I dont think it will slide up.....because when the top gets shorter the window has to lean back to fit the wrap around sides,and when you lean it back it gets too narrow.
.....Where Im at right now...well I tried lexan....because some idiot said it would work
dont waste your money 300.00 a sheet. I used the 1/8 thick but the problems are
#1. It wont bend around the wrap bottom corners and stay in the rubber. If you try to heat bend it the lexan finish wrinkles and you cant see through it. I even tried to screw it in on the sides but because reason #2 the ripples on top I took it out.
#2. because the sheet is flat and the window has compound curves the glass has ripples on the top and dosent look flat.
#3 it will scratch even though I used the scratch resistant type.
Hate to say I told you so... (post #24 this topic)
 
  #57  
Old 06-22-2009, 12:50 PM
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keith56_cruz_cab Sorry to hear about the problems your going through but take a look at it this way there are more 56 chop top f100's you can shake a stick at its possible because people have been doing it for years. try going a different route with the glass have you tryed a belt sander? I will take your advice and do a fiberglass molding first chop that and see how it comes out. I wrote this guy and he said he could cut my windshield to fit so give him a call or email see what he has to say.
Tri Valley Auto Glass
3688 Washington St suite D
Pleasanton, Ca. 94566
Office - 925-443-9655
Toll free - 888-883-8870

Fax - 925-443-9657
Please dont forget to visit our web site
Tri-Valley Auto Glass
 
  #58  
Old 06-22-2009, 01:16 PM
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Go a little Easy nordvik, AX was just reiterating that he thought it was a waste to try the lexan. He is one of the more helpfull members on this board. No need to start insulting anyone.
 
  #59  
Old 06-22-2009, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by nordvik72
So ill stick to the Do'ers and keep all the reading, negative post, old articles and such to you AX
Yeah man, this isn't the H.A.M.B, chill out.
 
  #60  
Old 06-22-2009, 01:28 PM
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sorry guys
 

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