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chopped my windshield

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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 08:23 AM
  #31  
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It looks like whoever did this windshield opted to keep the top of the glass stock and cut the lower section. That makes for a smooth upper fit but the lower section now becomes narrower and is pulled inside the normal windshield channel.
Like others have said, sinking the windshield into the cowl is a viable option; in fact, if done correctly, the wipers can be lowered with the cowl and the hood could be extended back to cover them much like later model cars are designed.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 05:59 PM
  #32  
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Just thinking to myself would a chop like this on a 56 require that you trim both top and bottom of the glass to make it work, I've never done anything this bold but finding the solution would likely be a big help to all that are thinking of attempting this modification. I certainly think that everyones input will eventually get it figured out hopefully for Keith's sake.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 12:35 AM
  #33  
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After more study it looks like I may have to cut top and maybe the bottom too.
I have to cut the top but not as much as I did because when the roof was lowered 3.5" it was widened about 1"
Im thinking the reason the truck at the show had the glass glued at the bottom was because he wanted to change the angle of the glass which allowed the corner radii
to fit better.
If I do that I will probably have to re-locate the defrost vents and remove or notch the rubber attatching rail.
Anyone know what kind of rubber / glue that is, I think it's the same stuff they use on new cars but I dont know what they call it.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 06:20 AM
  #34  
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The 'new' glue is Butyl.

Sam
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 07:21 AM
  #35  
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actually there are a number of different composition products made for glass installation and/or sealing depending on the exact application. 3M makes at least 4 different products alone: One is butyl, two are Urethane, and one is propriatary. That was just with a quick search.
You widened the top, but did you also widen the windshield frame? Did you tip inward the side posts?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 08:38 AM
  #36  
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I use a 3M product for sealing seams that is called "Automix Heavy-Bodied Seam Sealer", product code 8308. This is a 2-part catalized flexible sealer that will easily fill gaps and sets up to a firm, hard rubber-like consistency...I would not hesitate to use it in this application. Be careful with the RTVs and butyls that remain soft and pliable, they will work well for glass adhesion but not so well if you are looking for a solid foundation to support the glass. In the case of the truck at the GNRS, it looked like he just filled in the gap between the glass and the dash with adhesive, there are better solutions. For instance, 3M 8308 can be sanded and painted so you aren't left with a black blob on your dash.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 09:43 AM
  #37  
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Why not set your glass or template in the rubber and then in place just so you can see how far you really are off ?

Chuck
 
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 12:56 AM
  #38  
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chuck....because the metal rim that holds the rubber in place gets in the way.
ax / charlie....is the 8308 flat or shiney when dry? Im not woried about the inside I can cover that with the strip that covers the defrost vents but there will be a gap on the outside that will need to be filled and I would like it to match the rubber so you cant tell its there.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:20 AM
  #39  
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Ok. I have no idea what you mean by "because the metal rim that holds the rubber in place gets in the way" but you do and that's all that counts. Good luck with whatever you do.

Chuck
 
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 08:41 AM
  #40  
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The 3M 8308 dries to a high gloss...that said, it can be sanded or scuffed to take off the sheen. If you are considering this product, I would recommend painting the area after you have applied the sealer. Krylon Rust-Tough semi-flat black works well if you are looking for a satin "factory" look.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 12:11 AM
  #41  
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I think I figured it out

After seeing some trucks I think I have it figured it out.
In order to get the glass to fit it will have to weave in and out of the rim that holds the rubber. So as you can see in the pics I cut the rim in three sections on each side. I think this will work but the rubber will have to be glued in some areas. I got the fiberglass windshiled to fit used it as my sample but......
today when I cut the second windshield it broke!#@#&!!! now I have ordered a third.

 
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 10:48 AM
  #42  
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Sorry to hear about the windshild breaking but atleast you have it figured out now.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 11:36 AM
  #43  
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Keith,

I've been following this thread with interest. I'm glad you were finally able to get a fit, thats a real bummer about breaking the 2nd glass!

Here's a solution for you...........just take your fiberglass template and spray it with "clear"..........LOL....forgive me, being a smart-alek just comes naturally...its a gift

Bobby
 

Last edited by bobbytnm; Feb 2, 2009 at 11:36 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 12:37 AM
  #44  
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Just a follow-up I cut the third windshield today.
Everything looked like it was gooing smooth
then I unpealed the masking ....It had the mark of ZORRO
a big Z break/crack on the lower right side damnnnnnn
seriously looking at plastic
 
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 04:54 AM
  #45  
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Really sorry to hear that Keith,

Keep the faith. These things happen and are just another way of testing us. It will all be worth it in the end when you have a unique custom Crew Cab 56 to cruise around in...Dont go plastic, you will never be happy with it and this thing simply has to be driven when finished.

All the best
Lee
 
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