Thrust Bearing Failure
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Thrust Bearing Failure
Anyone heard of this problem ie is a Known problem, my check engine light came on last week, took it dealer, said over the ford limit of 25mm is at 30mm, they said engine done, can buy LKQ for 5k or new long block for 5k, I cant believe it my 2004 350 crewcab single rear 4x4 V10 has only 68,000. any help, comments, suggestions, also since i have to replace thinking maybe about some type of performance engine instead, any out there?
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Uh, there are oversize thrust bearings available, I think they are .005" oversize, might clear that up quite a bit.
You need to see if it's the crankshaft, or the thrust washers.
I've heard of a handful of these so far - maybe 3 people who've reported that issue on this site over the past few years.
Did you buy it brand-new, or was it used? Oil changes seem to be a BIG problem with this sort of thing. Everyone who reported having the problem was NOT the original owner and had no idea how it was maintained before that.
Is it a manual or auto tranny?
You need to see if it's the crankshaft, or the thrust washers.
I've heard of a handful of these so far - maybe 3 people who've reported that issue on this site over the past few years.
Did you buy it brand-new, or was it used? Oil changes seem to be a BIG problem with this sort of thing. Everyone who reported having the problem was NOT the original owner and had no idea how it was maintained before that.
Is it a manual or auto tranny?
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Weird! What codes do you get for that? Crankshaft position sensor? Also curious which tranny. If it is just the thrust surface of the bearing that is knocked out, and the thrust surface of the crank looks okay, it might be worth it to try the o-sized bearings like Art said.
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If this is more common in standard transmission, is excessive clutch pressure a possible cause, by pushing harder on the crank. Something that's not a problem with auto trannies?
Miking the thrust bearing should tell the tale, as to what needs to be replaced. And the bearing surface is a lot softer than the crank.
I would be vary surprised if the engine were toast.
Miking the thrust bearing should tell the tale, as to what needs to be replaced. And the bearing surface is a lot softer than the crank.
I would be vary surprised if the engine were toast.
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Actually, the two (or three?) other people I read that had thrust-bearing issues with the modulars (at least one V10 and I think the other was a 5.4) were AUTOMATIC trannies.
Which defies logic.
WHich is also why I said it sounds like the oil wasn't changed enough.
Which defies logic.
WHich is also why I said it sounds like the oil wasn't changed enough.
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Well think again, when you push down on the clutch, it applies forward pressure on the pressure plate, and its transferred forward to the crank. And the only thing that stops the crank shaft from moving forward, is its thrust bearing. And none of this takes place with auto transmission's.
I might add, that dirty oil will accelerate this and other ware, as mentioned above, and can compound the problem.
I might add, that dirty oil will accelerate this and other ware, as mentioned above, and can compound the problem.
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Correct on the clutch putting pressure on the crank, it does.
Chev had some issues in the '90s with the TH400 and high line pressure. (sorry about using that 4 letter word in this forum)
The line pressure was so high that it was forcing the converter out and wiping out the thrust bearings and crank. The trucks would come in with a complaint of engine knock, which was from the crank counterweights hitting the block!
GM swept this under the rug of course.
Chev had some issues in the '90s with the TH400 and high line pressure. (sorry about using that 4 letter word in this forum)
The line pressure was so high that it was forcing the converter out and wiping out the thrust bearings and crank. The trucks would come in with a complaint of engine knock, which was from the crank counterweights hitting the block!
GM swept this under the rug of course.
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Denny
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Just a tad off topic, but in a trade magazine I get, every year they do an article on service trucks, comparing the big three. And make recommendation, and Ford has always come out on top.
But they also recomend buying trucks of 1 ton and less with automatic transmissions, as the lack of clutch maintenance and repair over the life of the service truck, will out cost the optional cost of buying autos including there added fuel consumption.
I have no proof of this, I just read it.
But they also recomend buying trucks of 1 ton and less with automatic transmissions, as the lack of clutch maintenance and repair over the life of the service truck, will out cost the optional cost of buying autos including there added fuel consumption.
I have no proof of this, I just read it.
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From: Maple Ridge, Canada
Since most people can't chew gum and walk at the same time its a good idea to put them in an auto. No one but myself and my trained [substitute Tired of hearing me bitch] wife drives my truck because I get tired of watching and then having to explain the what not to do's in regards to standard trans equipt vehicles.
Never depress the clutch longer than it takes to shift or get the rig moving.
And in my truck you never rest your hand on the shifter.
Never, never, never... OK I'll drive.
Never depress the clutch longer than it takes to shift or get the rig moving.
And in my truck you never rest your hand on the shifter.
Never, never, never... OK I'll drive.
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Your right, when your talking about service trucks, the driver is seldom the owner, and on one cares about a truck like the guy that's paying for it. But that's life, and another reason to buy auto's with there simple Driving Instruction "Put in D to go - Step on big pedal to stop".
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From: Birnamwood
Since most people can't chew gum and walk at the same time its a good idea to put them in an auto. No one but myself and my trained [substitute Tired of hearing me bitch] wife drives my truck because I get tired of watching and then having to explain the what not to do's in regards to standard trans equipt vehicles.
Never depress the clutch longer than it takes to shift or get the rig moving.
And in my truck you never rest your hand on the shifter.
Never, never, never... OK I'll drive.
Never depress the clutch longer than it takes to shift or get the rig moving.
And in my truck you never rest your hand on the shifter.
Never, never, never... OK I'll drive.
Ever drive an 18 speed in a KW or Pete? You know how many times/time span you would be putting your hand back and forth? lol
The one KW I drive had over 600,000 on it befor it needed clutch work. This is a milk hauling truck, over 15 stops per day. Granted it is a real work truck! lol
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Original person who started thread and have problem, sorry for not responding earlier to some questions, first thank you all for your input. second forgot i posted her, so emotional about all this that i forgot about it.
-Truck is an auto.
-thrust washer is problem
-code was for crankshaft position sensor
-I am the one and only owner,
-checked my reciepts, done 10 oil changes, apprx 5-7500 miles intervals, i dont suspect this should have been a problem,
Thank you all for your responses
-Truck is an auto.
-thrust washer is problem
-code was for crankshaft position sensor
-I am the one and only owner,
-checked my reciepts, done 10 oil changes, apprx 5-7500 miles intervals, i dont suspect this should have been a problem,
Thank you all for your responses
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OK, with this info, were now talking about the end movement of a cam, not the crank, and with oil changes like you mentioned, it should not have happened in that low a mileage engine. Some go 200K+ with out this problem. It sound to me like its a Ford problem, but not a common one, and it can be fixed. No need to replace the engine, worst case is a head I would think.