MikeHM,

thank you for the comments. I press on

 

Did you change oil yourself or oil change shop?


what oil weight you put or oil change shop put?


Wow I can't believe but our 2001 F250 have 255,000 miles on original motor and transmission


New engine are under 3,600 dollars Ford 6.8L V10 Rebuilt Engine and Transmission Remanufactured, Rebuilt Engines And Rebuilt Transmissions For Your Cars, Trucks Engine, Diesels Engines, Boats Engines

That dealer is rip off $5,000 for new block

 

Hello Milwaukee1979150,
thank you for your comments.
all oil changes and all repairs done by dealer. so sorry do not know weight,
not much mechanically sound, just a user, never bothered to ask,
thanks for the link, will look it up,
estimate is not just for block, but block and installation, does this change your opinion, told, block rather inexpensive, heavy labor to exchange existing parts over, thanks once again

 

Hey Milwaukee1979150,
link me to Rhino engines, very coincidental as i did find them previously and called them, i cant find my notes, but my recollection was they quoted me a price at just about $4000.00, cant recall conditions of shipping, and core charge either,

thank you

 

ok but that you say it have oil change at dealer make me suspect but can't say that.

For me I don't feel comfy bring my trucks or cars to some place because they would put wrong oil so that how it destroy.


68,000 miles on that V10 it should able last 200,000 miles but it must be something wrong.


Try this one JASPER Engines & Transmissions:: remanufactured engine: diesel, marine, import I can't find price so you could try call them and ask about price and installer. Please post how much cost because I am curious if it good price then I be consider buy from them for my Uncle's astro van


But try krewat's advice find another dealer or mechanic who will replace that thrust bearing for you.

 

Lets not forget the possibility of a miss diagnoses from the dealer, my experience with service depts is, that they make there share of mistakes plus, by accident or deliberately. Times are tough and money is short.
You might want to get an second opinion. It could be something simple.

 

VERY good point - the only way the thrust bearing would cause a check engine light is if the crank sensor couldn't sense the tone wheel turning - and then it would stall.

If it's not running weird, stalling, missing, whatever, that check engine light is NOT caused by crank endplay.

Find out what the code was and post back.

 

Hello Krewat,

Sorry for delay.

BUT I HAVE FOUND THE CODE. P0315

Now Brief history of repairs per the Information on the Repair Orders.

1. Check engine light comes, you know the one that looks like an engine with the tranny attached, bottom left side of dash, Take it to dealer, they state the above code and replace the Cam shaft position sensor.

2. 6 days later, light had come on again, Took it back, Code back, Perform pin point tests, no faults, check KAM, If cel returns with same code may need crank tone ring. I remember them saying to me they took it for a roadtest if tone ring was damaged, you would know right away, stalling not running, no such situation, For me if not for light never knew if any problem, but once back I thought truck seemed to run smoother, not sure if just perception.

3. Week later light back on, to me truck sleems sluggish, downshifts alot, dealer says truck is shutting down to preserve itself, light goes out after a week beening on, They removed the crank shaft sensor for borascope access, inspect tone ring, ring is not broken or missing teeth, but is wobbling, remove oil pan (another oil change) found thrust washer and bearing with over spec of play. Recommend replacement of short block and overhaul or LKQ engine.

Hope this all helps. I did best to quote repair orders here.

Thanks
Nauset V-10

 

The tone ring wobbling has nothing to do with the thrust bearing.

When you say they changed the "cam shaft position sensor" does that mean they never actually changed the CRANK shaft sensor?

Do me a favor. Disconnect the battery for an hour or so with the headlights on.

Reconnect the battery, and drive it around for an hour. During this drive, go onto the highway, get it up past 60 MPH, drive for a few minutes, and then whereever you can do it, let off the gas, and let it coast down to less than 40 mph. This is the process where the PCM learns the spacing on the tone ring. Do this a few times, AND, do some wide-open-throttle acceleration up past 60MPH a few time.

See if the light comes back on, especially when doing the coasting thing.

 

Krewat, thank you, as not a mechanic and not mechanically sound, so if tone ring and thrust bearing independent of each other then do i have 2 problems?
Per the repair order: replaced Cam shaft position sensor, if i misspoke before I apologize, by the way part #: 1w7z-6c315-Ab, Sensor 706127.

Lastly, I should have some time next weekend to try the battery, coasting, accelerating test drive and will report back.

A big thank you once again.

 

OK, that part number is the CRANK shaft sensor.

Now, two things.

The wobbling tone ring has nothing to do with the crankshaft endplay nor the thrust bearing. The thrust bearings keep the crankshaft located front-to-back in the engine block.

The tone ring is held in place by the damper (basically the pulley), and sits in front of the timing chain gear. When the damper is installed, it butts up against the tone ring and holds it to the crankshaft.

If the crankshaft is moving too far forward and back because of the thrust bearings, the tone ring can get too far away from the sensor and the PCM won't know where the crankshaft is.

Now, I do NOT think, if that were the case, you would get that error code you got - the error means that the times it was trying to calibrate itself during a long coast, it couldn't, or that it never could do the test to begin with because you didn't drive it the right way for it to do it in the first place.

I'd say, that if the tone ring is wobbling, it has NOTHING to do with the thrust bearings. The tone ring might move forward or back, and get out of range of the sensor, BUT - it wouldn't "wobble".

Something don't sound right.

If you can't do the measurement yourself, pay a mechanic or machinist to setup a dial indicator on the front damper and see what the crankshaft end-play really is, and report back. Or, if you can find the tools, get a dial-indicator with a magnetic base, set it up with the pointer on the damper and then push and pull on the damper and see how far it moves.

I still think something doesn't sound right.

 

Krewat,

Thank you for the information. Very Interesting.

Without going crazy hear but could they mean the "wobble" of the tone ring is the tone ring moving out and in?

I will first try the disconnect the battery and drive, accelerate and coast thing and let you know. As far as the dial in on my own, sorry just not in my talents would have to have a mechanic do that.

Also thinking here is some additional information, the light will come on when I hard accelerate. by hard mean step on gas quick and hard enough to get truck to downshift causing that push back in the seat feeling. Driving around regularly will not cause light to come on. By the way this has happened all the time while the truck is 'empty' ie not towing, carrying pulling etc,

 

Yeah, I guess they could mean "wobble" to be the tone ring moving back and forth.

And if the tone ring IS wobbling, maybe with excess crankshaft endplay it's moving enough now that it'll throw a code.

Dunno what to do in this case. With the cost of an engine replacement looming, I think going to a machinist/mechanic to check the crank endplay would be a reasonable thing to spend some money on. Should take WAY less than an hour's worth of labor to find out.

 

Thank you for all your help and suggestions, will let you know what i decide to do.

 

OH! And also, I think I mentioned this before, they do make a .005" oversize thrust bearing for the V10.

There are THREE thrust bearings in the V10, they are half-circles. Two go on one side of a main bearing, the other goes on the other side. If you replaced all three with .005" oversize, you'd get .010" less crankshaft end-play.

So if the spec is less than .010" out, the oversize bearings would bring you back to "nominal".

That is, as long as the crankshaft thrust surface is still good.

You know what I'd do? Bring it to an engine rebuilder, tell him(her) exactly what you've found so far, and ask them what do they suggest? Mention the oversize thrust bearing, and the "wobble" of the tone ring.

I'm sure an engine rebuilder might LIKE to rebuild the entire engine, but if you find an honest one, they might be willing to drop the oil pan and try the thrust bearings (if the endplay is too much in the first place). Or, put a screwdriver in the crank sensor hole and try to straight out that wobble.

I dunno... but a machinist might be my first contact...