I'VE BEEN WANDERING IVE DONE ARP STUDS DUE TO HEAD GASKET .DOES THOSE FIX THE PROBLEM WITH THE 6.0 AND MAKE IT AS RELIABLE AS THE 7.3 . I WANT TO PROGRAM IT BUT DON'T KNOW??? DON'T WANT ANYMORE PROBLEMS!!

 

ARP studs, EGR delete, Coolant filter, and you're good to go. Big exhaust not a must, but a good thing, regulated fuel return, or FASS system , but it's not a must for reliability.... Do a CCV reroute also for your turbo.

 

arp studs should keep the heads nice and tight no streching those bolts, they should be good for at least 400hp, i second dcaddi2 recommendation if you are doing any heavy programmer stuff install a sneaky pipe or delete the egr completely, get a coolant filter, get the best regulated fuel sys you can buy install the fass fuel system that will meet the demands of your programmer, do the ccv reroute (its cheap to do this) maybe even do a propane injection also, i believe propane acts as a catalist to make the diesel fuel burn near 95-100 percent, would keep smoke to a min while making good power.

 

Well, I'm not 100% sure about the propane. A little while ago I asked a question about water / methanol vs. propane injection, and I started to study about them. I'm planning to write about what I found really soon, but I'm not ready jet. Anyways, the propane has it's dark side , so ... I'm not sure...

 

Arp's didn't cure mine. Still pisses fluid, and overheats. It's getting traded soon....

 

Did you check/replace your EGR cooler? ARP is the cure for blowing the head gasket, but it won't help if the root of your problem is something else...
Puking caused by blown head gasket OR EGR cooler failure, oil cooler failure, or it could be overfilled coolant system. Don't blame ARP for others...
I installed mine, did the EGR cooler delete, and have no problem floor it on the highest level.... not a drop of coolant loss.
By the way head gasket failure never will came with overheating problem, so I'm sure that you're looking for something else...

 

what exactly is the egr delete??

 

Sounds like the Mechanic didn't check the heads for flatness.

 

I have the same question

 

I actually would say that the RR kit is a must for reliability especially in order to deal with the dead-heading of the injectors that are known to happen on these engines. FASS system isn't a must unless your going to be doing bigger injectors, but good to have.

 

Whats a ccv reroute?
Whats a fass system?
What coolant filter are you guys recommending?
Any links to these things plus some explanations would be greatly appreciated.

I've got an 05. I'm not going to do any programmers but I am thinking of doing the egr delete and 4" exhaust. This truck has been extremely problematic and I'm up in the air as the whether or not I want to trade or spend some cash and hopefully make it a reliable vehicle.

So far I've been scared to spend the money because I don't know of anyone who's done these things and had the results of a problem free 6.0 If I'd found the V10 I want the 6.0 would already be gone.

 

CCV reroute (written by Spartan):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...rerouting.html

FASS system :
hit search, you'll find write up on it....

Coolant filter from dieselsite :
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=324

EGR delete :
You can almost do the EGR delete for free if you do it yourself. take out the EGR cooler and put a block off plate on both ends of the egr cooler but let the coolant still flow through it. its fail proof and it doesn't cost much, its cheaper than a $700 delete kit. make the block off plates yourself, you'll see how to do it when you get it off. You can look up on ebay, I'm sure you'll find the plate/kit.

My truck was a problematic child too. You can see in my signature the mods I have, and I did almost everything in the same time to it. Since that no problem at all - knock on wood, and I'm happy to say, since that I'm thinking of the new mods ( regulated fuel return ) instead of the repairs.....

 

All this and MUCH, MUCH more in my spreadsheets that I am emailing out to folks.

Also - there are many reasons to overheat and puke coolant (not just leaking head gaskets):

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=624 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 468pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 22820" width=624><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 39.75pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=53><TD class=xl27 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 39.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=53>Common Causes</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=17>

• EGR Cooler leaking

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=17>

• Oil Cooler plugged or leaking (which elevates oil temps AND prevents coolant flow to EGR cooler

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=17>

• Blown Head Gaskets from stretched TTY bolts, most likely from excessive CP (cylinder pressure)

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=17>

• Bad degas bottle cap (if you are puking coolant, you should replace the degas bottle cap after fixing the root problem).

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=17>

• Clogged Radiator (air side)

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=17>

• Thermostat

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=17>

• Some suspect a collapsed radiator hose

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=17>

• Coolant Temperature Sensor

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=17>

• Injector cup

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=17>

• Glow plug cup

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=17>

• Warped or cracked head

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=17>

• Water pump fins are split where they go around the shaft:

</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 38.25pt" height=51><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 468pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 38.25pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=624 height=51>Problem: When the water pump fins fail, they only spin for a while and when they get hot the spinning will slow down. An easy way to check for this problem is pull the hose off the degas bottle from the intake it should pump the same amount out hot or cold. This can make your engine puke if it is your problem.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Is it too late to realize any real benefits from a coolant filter instalation after 45,000 miles on the clock? Exactly what are the reasons for doing it?

 

Head gaskets, EGR cooler, oil cooler, all injectors, coolant bottle, EVERYTHING was replaced. $8900 without the ARP's. I supplied those. It still pushes coolant out the bottle until it overheats. This started again within 3K miles. If I pull anything on the highway over 5000# it over heats. It's not an overfilled coolant system, it is low every day. I am so done with this POS 6.0. I am tired of taking it to the dealer, and ordered it's V10 replacement. I lose a little power, but gain a lot of reliability!