Both the Vol-ta-drop and the samll individual gauge units are straight resistors.

Vol-ta drop is the biggest at about 3 1/2 inches square with two resistors cast into a porcelien block. It will provide about 10 amps at 6 volts. The smaller individual resistors that go on each gauge are less than 0.5 amp. I'm not to familiar withthe unit that bolts to teh gauge package and converts for all the gauges in the cluster - but I've heard of them.

J!

 

Why not isolate the problem by measuring voltage and curent draw from the ICVR "thing" , should be in and around 6 VDC, current based on fuse of circuit if loaded up. If it is it would seem this device is doing its job. Next isolate the fuel sender from circuit, check voltage , still 6 volts ? If not maybe the circuit is shorted to another one. I don't remember if you checked for voltage at fuel gauge with key off, but if it is "hot" when key off, that would need to change as Julie said. It really would be worth the time to put all your gauges and accessories on a keyed, fused circuit. It's only time, right ? LOL

Keep looking, and good luck.

Tom

 

Yes it could be the ICVR. It matters which way it's hooked up. One side of it is grounded thru a resistor to heat the element inside. The terminals aren't marked on mine, but the connectors are set up different (one male, one female) so on a stock setup in a late 50's/early 60's Ford you can't install it backwards.

PS the ICVR I got from NAPA was only $20, and if I were to do it over I'd go to the boneyard and pluck one out of a car. The new ones are chinese, you know that tune...

 

First thanks for everyone taking the time to read and respond to my mystery.

The problem was simple as they always are. It wasn't the ICVR, apparently it is suppose to "blink". It wasn't the fuel guage, sending unit or a frayed wire.
It was the IGNITION SWITCH!

Center position is off, turn left for aux. power, turn right to power the start button. There was short between the center and left position. The wire going to the guages was hot with the ignition off. I accidentally brushed against the key and the test light went out! I could actually tamp the ignition switch and the light would go on and then off. I don't know where it came from but I had an extra ignition switch. I'll watch it but there is no short with the ignition switch off.

Special thanks to Julies Cool F1 who pointed me in the right direction with the comment about the guage wire needing to be switched. I knew it once was! BTW; even with power to the guages the fuel guage does not work until the key is in the start position, another clue from Julies.

My 1950 Green Hornet is ready for Christmas display and the parades.

I've been using and supporting this forum for 10 years and the talent still amazes me.

A big thanks again to everyone.

Best,
Mark Hendricks
1950 F-1

 

YEAH! Glad you found that. Isn't it funny how we find these things some times.

Glad I was able to provide the points...it's tough over cyberspace sometimes!

J!

 

PS. That's a good idea Tom...Only problem is those ICVRs and Vol-ta-drop type reducers only work when there is an actual draw on them to a load.

So you would have to load it and hook up a meter in Parallel somehow then cause it to work.

J!

 

Way cool! I'm glad it was something simple

Bobby

 

Glad you were able to find the problem, one less thing to fix.

Tom