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How does the power window know when to stop going up?
My pass side window starting acting up this week. Goes up and instead of "stopping" it keeps trying to roll up and makes a noise like its slipping on its gears at the top of the stroke.
Usually there is a circuit breaker incorporated in the motor that heats up and trips if the switch is held in the up or down position for too long,forcing the motor and causing an increase in amperage draw, usually in excess of 5 amps.
Sounds like you might have a bad switch and the gears might be worn out enough that it skips instead of stopping.
The gears are not meshing any more, so the power source will continue to turn until you release the switch. The circuit breaker should not be called into play unless the motor gets REAL hot, as it is more of a thermal cutout than circuit breaker. Actually, it is an overtemp cutout to protect the motor.
I don't own your model year, but I think that most power windows these days are driven by a plastic 'tape' rather than regulator gears and the "X" shaped mechanism of old. You might need to replace the tape. If you can get one. If you have ever taken apart a power antenna you will see similar 'tape' used to move the antenna up and down.
tom
Its probably slipping on chewed up gears at the end of the regulator drive gear. The window itself is mounted to a guide and bracket which is separate from the regulator. The part should be inexpensive but you will need to remove the regulator and inspect all the components for an accurate analysis of the damage and which components need replacement.
The motor stops when motor current exceeds a pre-set, usually a ckt breaker of some type.
Gears are a problem with Fords. The gear housing is mounted on the end of the motor. The gears are white plastic, and start crumbling as they age. If this is your problem, you can purchase replacement gears at your local auto parts, or from Ford.
You can remove the motor/gear assy fairly easy. Three small screws holds it in. Two of the screws are exposed, and the third is behind the door panel. Look where it should be in relation to the other two, and you will see a dimple in the panel. Drill this dimple, and you will find the third screw behind it.jd
Well I got my door apart yesterday (see post about speaker wire colors). Turns out the last 2 gears on my swing arm, not the motor, are partially stripped. So I will have to replace the whole swing arm to do it. It does go up and stay up pretty well and I have those visor/wind deflector things on there that should both keep the rain and prying fingers out.
That swing arm is the drive gear I mentioned. Its not a real common fault. A replacement isnt real expensive and since the door is apart would be a good time to accomplish the task. I have seen a few of those drive gear arms snap completely off. Just ask for a regulator, the other section is called a guide and bracket. They are found on Ebay new for under 40 dollars without motor and around 70 with motor..
I think I was confused because I would have called the swing arm the "driven" gear! No matter, the door panel comes off easy and I will have to look at finding a replacement. How hard is it to replace? Last one I worked on was in my 67 ford..and that was a NIGHTMARE to get everything lined up right. It is like a Chinese puzzle or something. Also, is there a difference in the design of the parts that I need between the power window version and manual window version?
A manual regulator is different, as it uses a hand crank built into it. If you want it to be substantially easier get one with the motor installed. That way you dont have to deal with pretensioning the helper spring. Other than that you need a drill, rivet gun, hammer and punch, rivets. Might be better to pay the dealer if you dont have experience with these tools or own the tools and the correct hardware. Sorry if I confused you with drive gear rather than driven gear, but I did say at the end of the gear, which there is no end on a circular gear (which is why I recommended inspection to see what is actually worn. No way to predict over the internet)
the manual and electric regulators are the same. I installed electrics in my 94 and all that was required was to install the motors, I did not change the regulators or anything else. the elects were out of a 97 so unless there were big changes in design.........
A manual regulator is different, as it uses a hand crank built into it. If you want it to be substantially easier get one with the motor installed. That way you dont have to deal with pretensioning the helper spring. Other than that you need a drill, rivet gun, hammer and punch, rivets. Might be better to pay the dealer if you dont have experience with these tools or own the tools and the correct hardware. Sorry if I confused you with drive gear rather than driven gear, but I did say at the end of the gear, which there is no end on a circular gear (which is why I recommended inspection to see what is actually worn. No way to predict over the internet)
all good, its just semantics at that point. I got to where I needed to go with it. The advice to find a complete setup with the motor installed sounds like a good one. Will defiantly try that. I am good with tools and my hands, so that's not a problem....probably just as good as the rookies at my local ford dealer.
Usually there is a circuit breaker incorporated in the motor that heats up and trips if the switch is held in the up or down position for too long,forcing the motor and causing an increase in amperage draw, usually in excess of 5 amps.
Sounds like you might have a bad switch and the gears might be worn out enough that it skips instead of stopping.
Nearly all cars and trucks have this breaker, even if there are window pos. sensors are used (Merc use hall effect sensors on some models... but rarelly), but sensors are really rare and if there is auto open/close switch is used there is small timer inside for 10 sec. for example.....
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