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400 block dimensions ?

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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 02:43 PM
  #16  
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fox swap is another option for me but the 1 " taller deck is the problem for headers swap but have to try it. I have a set off full lenght header with 3" collectors but was for 302.

I know is not the same mesurment but i can make the plate with hole to fit on my head and then cut the 302 plate and weld my home made plate to the 302 headers. I just don't know how big the pipe is required on a 400. I have the header right here, i can take in/out mesure. maby too small ???
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 12:58 PM
  #17  
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Back from the dead. The 351C slip tube headers I tried wouldn't fit. Got a set of manifolds from a '71 Mustang w/351C, wouldn't fit. Otherwise the engine and C4 tranny were in and done. (I made the mounts using truck 302 mounts flipped upside down, a 1/4" spacer plate to the block, and the lower half of Chuck W type 6 mounts) Parked it out back, and moved on to other projects. Then in an effort to make sense of it all, and get some progress going, I decided to pull the 400 and drop a 351C in. I don't have a 351C yet. Everything I have for the Tbird is set up for a 351C so it makes sense to go that route, plus I'll be able to use the AOD that fits the car better. I'll get back on that project later on. Moral of the story is that 1 inch makes a huge difference. Bigger moral of the story is the recession has been survived....hopefully it has been for everyone else, too.

What am I going to do now? Well, not that anybody probably cares, but the 400 (eventual 434) will go into my '62 Fairlane. This car was going to be an all out gasser replica of sorts, and so it makes sense to put the 400 in there instead of locating an FE that will work. (I do have a 391FT and 360 FE, but neither run) I hope to make the engine look original by painting the block, intake, and heads black, the VC's and air cleaner cover light blue ('62 221cid color) hide the pvc behind the intake, or go road draft tube, and use the block's plug on the P side for a home-made filler neck. Just ideas for now. I did get a set of old FE valve covers, and intend to make VC adapters for them. Engine bay will be cut out, using the crites kit for tbolt clones., and I plan to box in my own subframe part, and use perches similar to the '73-79 F150 4x4. That way, I can install a 302, 351, 400, or an FE with a 1" adapter if I so choose. Starting with the 400, though.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 01:24 PM
  #18  
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FE block brackets

Havi--
This one keeps on tickin! Still have my 70 Mach, waiting on roundtoits. Have you looked at the block adapters for the FE's in the Mustang apps ? I doubt the block bolts are the same as the 400, but I wonder if they could be drilled into that FE adapter. With that block adapter, the ~69/70 mustang motor mounts look to be the same as the W small blocks. Also wonder how close the mustang motor mounts are to being able to mount on the 45 angle of the earlier birds. Did any of your FE's have those block adapters on them for you to try on the 400? I would buy a set of FE block adapters---but----they "aint' cheep!!

On the weather----we have another blistering cold front coming in tomorrow--. May get in the low/mid forties!!
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 01:41 PM
  #19  
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I looked at my FE engines thinking about it, but the spacing on the 400 is too far apart. I can't say 100% though, as I never actually tried them. I'm doing a quick cleaning of the garage, and getting ready to pull the Fairlane in this afternoon. It's a balmy 32F and still no snow on the ground, making it possible.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 02:16 PM
  #20  
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sun screen

Why dont you engineer a tool to measure the distance between the Fe mounting holes and those on the 400. There is a picture of the mustang style mounts for the 69-70 stangs in the NPD catalog if you havnt seen what I am talking about. That would open up another possibility, particularly for my Mach---when I get to it May work for you also.

Be careful, on those balmy days, if you use sunscreen, it may rust some parts--car parts that is--
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 03:01 PM
  #21  
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the "box" under the inner fenders needs patching anyway due to rust. My thoughts are to put new "box" in with a bit thicker metal, and prevent twisting when I tromp on the gas. I'll definitely look further at the '69-70 Mach's too.

EDIT: Did I mention the PO welded in mounts onto the perches besides? lol. I just want to re-engineer the whole thing to make it easier for parts availability.
 
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