Alright, its on my car but I figure there's some decent engine knowledgful people here (as you may notice from my awesome speak abilities, I'm a bit worn out and discouraged.)

I recently replaced the clutch in my car, but I'm having some engine problems now.

First off it's a 302 with an Edlebrock 4v, manual choke. 4speed toploader.

I replaced a piece of fuel line that had been crushed, and the engine had improved quite a bit when I was working on it under the hood. When I'm under the hood I don't notice any problems. However when I drive it... I have some MAJOR ones.

I'm not sure how to describe the problem, it's been one I've had since I bought it, but it's pretty bad right now (possibly because the clutch is working like it should and not so worn out). As best I can explain it it's like it dies out when I try to accelerate, like it's been put on mute. It feels like a rev, but it goes quit and even the feel of it is softened a lot, but it's not like it's idling.

Trying to move from a stand still, usually I can move it a few feet, then I have to put in the clutch and try again because it's dying. Today I was at a light and when I went to go, I couldn't get things to kick in so to speak, it was like it was muted but still trying to rev. It went about 5mph, for about 100 feet before I could get it to wake up and actually work.



The carb works perfectly when I am working with it under the hood, when I go to use the pedal it just mutes out when I get past 2500 rpms or so (4500 is my redline).


The fuel sender unit in the gas tank is off (meaning my gauge doesn't really work), but I hadn't noticed a problem when I was working the engine by hand, it seems to work fine then.

Needless to say this has really taken the joy out of driving, I haven't been this discouraged since I totalled my truck 13 days after I cherried it.

 

So, is what you are trying to tell us is that when you are driving the car it idles ok, but when you step on the gas, the engine like, dies or gets real quiet and almost dies?

J???

 

Sounds like the engine is too lean maybe the accelerator pump in the carb is not working. Low float level, insufficient fuel getting to carb ( bad fuel pump or dirty filter).
If you have breaker point ignition I would look for too little point opening. Or anything else that would inhibit the spark from doing its job. Perhaps bad secondary ignition wires or dirty, corroded connections on the secondary ignition wires.

 

I wonder if the crimped fuel line was trapping rust/dirt, and you let it go thru to the carb when you fixed it?

 

Right now I am leaning towards the fuel pump. We've had this problem long ago with another car but unfortunately forgot how to fix it! It just doesn't get the power it needs, it's spastic with it.

When I fixed the fuel like I cut the side closest to the engine first (things where bent bad enough I just bent the line back over to keep the still attached side from leaking!), and then cut the other side, so hopefully nothing managed to get through. But I was having this problem prior to fixing this...

Thanks for the help, keep it coming, lol

 

Make sure the exhaust system is not stopped up.

 

Isn't that frustrating!

I had the problem you are describing once on a car too. I know exactly what you are talking about. And for the life of me I can't remember what it was. But I agree with Ross, it really sounds like a fuel/carb problem. Fuel pumps are cheep. I'd replace it and rebuild th ecarb if it's not too hard just to get it cleaned out.

Julie!

 

Everyone has a different way to do things. Mine is the cheap way first. Replace block to frame to battery grounds with my jumper cables. Next use a ohm/volt meter check all engine voltages, coil input volts/condition, coil ohms, wires to dist. Condition of dist/shaft/points/advance/wiring. If sparkplug wires are shielded, check ohms for each wire between center and shield. Pull plugs ck or replace. Pull fuel pump,ck condition and lobe. Use lawn mower storage fuel tank and flex line to eliminate fuel lines, tank and in-tank filter. Check fuel filter between pump and carb. I have a spare elect fuel pump and gauge for proper fuel PSI to carb. I also have a old carb for trouble-shooting. A lot of thing change under load. I hope maybe something here will help.chuck

 

Something to check is to make sure your not sucking air into your newly repaired fuel line. Another thing to try is when your under the hood, rev the S#*T out of it and place your hand over half the carb and see if it reaches a higher r.p.m. if so chances are really good your carb needs attention, as for the fuel pump, the ones in the tank either work, or they don't.
Does it idle smooth? Or is it stumblin?
dats it, good luck!

 

Have you checked the timing? I know it sounds silly, but I had a distributor turn on a truck I used to have once (no one had touched it).

It would start and idle just fine. Step on the gas...and it basically said: "What..who..Me?" It would only rev up to around 2000 RPM with it on the floor. I almost did not make it out of my friends neighborhood with it. It is very steep coming up from the lake.

The trip home was like 10-15 MPH all the way.

 

Thanks for the advise, keep it coming.


It idles smooth, it revs perfectly fine under the hood... but when I put the power to use it simply goes on vacation and leaves me half way in the intersection, then comes back 5 minutes later with a burrito in it's hand and a sombrero on it's head, and goes "ah man, I just got back, do I really have to?"


lol such a huge problem and I know it's going to be something really stupid simple... like a dead mouse in my exhaust, lol.

 

Also, this just popped into my mind. Check all your vacuum lines and places in the manifold vacuum can leak. Be sure your vacuum advance to the Distributor is connected.

J!

 

Just thought of something, I use to own a 65 V.W. beetle. Did the same thing for me, I change points, fuel filter and did the exact same thing yours is doing. After a month of checking electrical, from coils, ect..... I took the fuel tank out and it was full of crap, cleaned the tank and when took the line off at the carb and blew air into the fuel line, there was enought crap and rust in that line to paint a barn. later......

 

Give us some vacuum readings on it. That will tell us a lot.

I was going to post a link to a good place for vacuum readings, but it must be on my parents PC.

As far as checking for vacuum leaks (as Julie suggested)...I just use a tiny bit of starting fluid sprayed around the intake and lines to see if there is one. If the engine revs when you spray...there is your leak.

If you do not have a timing light and a vacuum gauge...they rent them at the part stores (free).

 

It's much safer to use an unlit propane torch. You're right tho, the vac gauge would give some valuable info.