You do get what you pay for. I have a Speedglas helmet and I love it. Also don't even think of using anything that doesn't completely cover your head and ears.

I was using my Speedglas helmet with a plasma cutter one day and was looking sideways at the cut. a tiny piece of hot slag went right in my ear!! I got it out fast...... (it didn't happen) but visualize a piece of hot slag making it all the way to your eardrum!!

I'll wear ear plugs next time too!!

It's funny how a piece of hot slag always either makes it into your open shirt or in a shoe(with your foot in it!!)


Regards,



Rick,

 

Love my miller big window auto darkening, had all the cheap ones and I had a problem with welding flash getting through, shoulda bought the miller from the get go!!!! Wasted my money on the cheap ones!!! Just my $.02

 

I had a spark or two hit the side of my face laying on my side to weld the bottom of my frames boxing plates. I always wear a welding hat to keep my hair from burning but now I turn it so the soft brim covers the up side of my head when I am laying down to weld.

The Miller Performance Series also has an adjustable head band that places the hood closer or further from your face.

 

I'll second the idea of purchasing the best unit you can afford,..
I personally like the Miller and Speedglass units...they're your eyes, take care of them. Another thing to think about, if you wear glasses, make sure you can wear them under your new helmet, the better you can see that weld pool, the less chance of a poor weld.

 

bacagrizz got it right!! don't go cheap on your eyes!!!!!!!!! you WILL regret it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

A friend of mine got one from HF or TSC(I don't remember which) and also took the insurance with it. I think he said it was about $10.00 extra. He's normally not clumsy and takes care of his tools, but he did manage to run over his new helmet within a few weeks of having it. They replaced it with no questions asked.

 

IMHO checking for the right features is more important than the brand.
In order of importance to me:
battery powered or battery/solar powered with readily available batteries. Check battery # then call your local Radio Shack (they carry a lot of odd batteries and are open on the weekends) and see if they stock that battery. Nothing worse than go to weld on the weekend and the batteries are dead and the only place that carries them is not open or they need to be ordered. BTDT.

Adjustable max darkening. Tig needs a 12 plate, but Mig only needs 9-10. If you never plan to use a tig welder, then one that is non adjustable but goes to a 10 max will be the next best option. Non adjustable to 12 will be too dark except for tig only.

Harness that fits your head. I curse the harness in my 300.00 Miller every time I use it. I cannot get it adjusted correctly to stay on my head while the helmet is lifted up or if I tilt my head so the face plate is looking straight down it falls off. The cheap non auto helmet I got with my Hobart (Miller) welder stays on just fine. It's just a matter of time before it is damaged hitting the floor.

Nice to have: adjustable response time.

Agravating: auto off-manual on. My Miller turns itself off after about 10 min. without any indication it has done so. The button to turn it on is inside the helmet above the face plate. You have to take the helmet off, a glove off, push the button and watch thru the face plate to see it flash dark then light indicating it's on. A small LED at the bottom of the face plate indicating "on" would be a MAJOR improvement. It's supposed to be auto on, but you still get flashed like a camera flash in the eyes before it turns on. I have to be sure to turn it on before each weld in case it has gone off, a real agravation!

 

Wow .... lots of great comments and info ... thanks!! After trying out a friend's HF unit, and another "el cheapo" of unknown make, I went and tried a 3M, and a Miller Elite. The price the shop could give me on the Elite was good ... very good when compared to the 3M .... so I went with the Elite from Miller. It works great! Yeah not really cheap .... but given that I'm battling with eyes that aren't so young anymore ... this one really does the job.

The adjustability really does make a difference. Kind of amazing what you can see when working with the right setup? (grin)

Thanks again to all that stepped up with their info. That is what makes this forum so great.

RG

PS: Frank Cowan ... .how's the COE coming along?? I still have one of those to do too. Ping me off the forum ... I have some photos that would help with what you are doing. Just finished a rehab of my F1 cab, and have done a lot of what you are doing.

 

I've got a couple speedglass helmets. Both are auto-darkening. The welding shop I got them from has all the parts I need when replacing the shields on the front, as well as cheater lenses. I can no longer see close up. I use a 1.75 magnifier lense in both helmets. I also have a Jackson helmet with the big window. It's not an auto helmet, but I really liked it when I could see without the cheater lenses.
The speedglass helmets will run from about $150.00 to $300.00, depending on what you want. I use the cheaper ones. The more expensive ones have bigger windows. I also believe what you do with them may determine what you will spend on one. If welding is your profession, you'll probably go with a better quality one. If it's a hobby, or just for occasional use, a cheaper unit would do just fine, in my opinion.

 

To add to Stephens comments: I had a hand held welding mask that was probably 7" square (2x4 lens) and had a handle on the bottom. It looked like a theatrical mask. Worked well in real tight areas.

I have even taped a lens to a piece of cardboard. Cardboard is really not that flammable!

 

Another tip:

***OLD MAN ALERT***
If your past forty years old like myself, you may want to get a "reading glass" lens attachment. They snap onto the inside of the lens. I was having a hard time laying down decent welds when a buddy let me borrow his helment with the magnifier attached. WOW! I could actually see what I was welding!

 

I make sure I have a strong light trained on the place that I will be welding, Usually a clip on light fixture with a 95W spot bulb. The less difference in light intensity between no arc and arc, the easier and quicker your eyes will adjust to the change. It will also be easier to see where the stinger and wire is before you press the trigger.

 

I'm currently looking for a new helmet and this thread has been most helpful. I have one of the cheaper models from Lowes and I find that it doesn't always kick in as quickly as it should. Most of the issues I have with it are when I am watching someone else weld and might be anywhere from 3-4 feet away. It doesn't want to kick over to autodarkening. If I am right up on top of something it seems to work fine but there is a zone where it seems to be confused and flips back and forth. There is not a way to adjust the autodarkening feature. I'm almost considering going to a fixed filter. I also know they get dropped and banged around a little so I'm reluctant to put $300 into something that might break.

 

The more expensive helmets are meant for pro welders who use their helmet at least 40 hrs/week. With that type use and abuse IMHO they have to be built tough and durable. A pro can't afford to have his helmet quit every time it falls to the ground or he bumps into something with it. A cheaper hobbiest grade helmet is much more likely to fail. A major manufacturer is much more likely to stand behind his product as well.
I think that if you now go to a fixed lens helmet, you'll be reaching for that self darkening one after a couple welds even if it acts up. If you are just using it for observing, nevermind the above and just get one of the 10.00 masks on a steeeeck like are included with cheap welders.

 

I have a speedglass automatic darkening helmet with a magnifier lense. But I have a cheap Jackson on my truck for backup.