I agree! Get a billet oil filter cap, they work great for the sender unit. When you change the oil just unplugged the wires and take off the cap... no hassle at all.

 

Sounds like you are referring to Joe aka CSIPSD.

Has a bunch of Isspros and a Term. Scan Gauge.

 

I remember his truck with all the gauges. Pretty wild! Can't wait till you find them!

 

Thanks for the member name DCSpecial!!! Found it. Scroll down near the bottom: He now has 18 gauges!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...uge-pod-2.html

 

You sure about that? Every info I have on that particular subject shows that there is about a ~25 degree difference between the two.

 

Both my Oil Temp and Water Temp gauges do stay the same after the truck is up to normal operating temps while driving empty. Actually the oil takes longer to "warm" up than the water temp (it lags about 30 degrees behind the water temp). While towing our Travel Trailer the oil temp will increase over water temp going up hills by up to 15 degrees or so. I had heard the same as you Tex, but after installing the gauges I noticed they do stay the same (empty). I have the oil temp sender in the oil filter billet cap and the water temp sender in the block (usual spot). This is why I think Water AND Oil temp gauges are both important to have... not just one or the other... just my opinion plus I like gauges!!

 

Good enough for me. I don't have both so I don't know from first hand experiance, I don't know if the ones that said that had first hand experiance or not, but at the time I had no reason to question what the said. Thanks for squaring that away.

 

No problem Tex!! Hey... Christmas is coming, wouldn't a brand new shiny Oil Temp gauge look nice in your stocking??!?!!? I'm "hoping" for an egt gauge a fuel pressure gauge a volt meter, a Garmin, etc, etc!! Oh, the list keeps going!

 

I actually have to make sure I have money for everyone else on my christmas list unlike last year. Boy I won't be able to live that one down. Everyone's b-days were very expensive this year to make up for it.

 

Under cruising conditions, that will be the case; but if you start to hit it hard, the oil will wash with heat long before the H2O. It is, after all, the oils job to lubricate the moving parts and wash the heat from them. The H2O's job it to then wash the overall heat build-up from the engine block via the radiator. In really extreme situations, you may be too late once you notice that the H2O is @ 240*, because the oil has already reached 300* and is still climbing... Tic-Tic-Tic BOOM! Then your H2O and your oil is on the street, along with a bunch of twisted metal.

 

Yup, but my kid has more $$ in the bank than I do right now, but he still is asking for an X-Box 360 60GB + WIFI for Christmas... That's like $400! I think I can just get him part of the way there with a gift card

 

I have no idea what that is outside the fact that it's a video game system(maybe more then that I don't know). To me there is only the original nintendo system(Legend of Zelda, Mega Man, SMB; I'm starting to cry these memories are rushing back to me).

 

You will defuel long before you hit those temps (227 for Water and 254 for oil, been there done that, it wasn't fun especially pulling a trailer ). I see what you are saying. From my experience, if I drive with a lead foot empty the water temp will nudge a few degrees higher, maybe 3 to 5 degrees, but once you ease your foot and drive "normal" the temps go back to normal pretty quick. I have never had the oil temp go higher than the coolant while driving empty even when I put my foot in it (you can't drive around town with your foot constantly hammered to the floor... well at least I can't...lol). When you are actually pulling a load that is when the oil temp climbs higher. It seems when you constantly work the engine the oil temp will go higher than water. As I said this is just my experience with the way I drive my truck and I don't baby it....well on surface streets you kind of have to baby it a little.

 

I hadn't thought of getting a voltmeter but I do run alot of power between a plow, spreader, transfer pump and inverter. I use upfitter 4 for the BCP when running the inverter or pump.

So trans, pyro, fuel pressure, oil press. and temp, water temp and pressure, and voltmeter....although some systems can be monitored in a tuner, correct? I'd like to put in 8 gauges (pillar and overhead) but still have accurate boost, hpop, and axle temps and not duplicate any sensors. Since I primarily tow, is accurate boost my least concern? If I need to sacrifice a couple gauges for others is it better to monitor temperatures or pressures? I'm not sure what I mean by "better" even. Maybe which metric more quickly indicates a problem.

 

If you install an overhead pod you will need an Acryllic based adhesive backed velcro if you live where ambient temps hit 100 degrees or higher. The adhesive will become soft and the pod will detach with any other kind of adhesive. Boost is important if you are towing since overboosting will stretch head bolts. If you are going to put in 8 (me too someday) I would put:
1. EGT
2. Tranny
3. Oil Temp
4. Water Temp
5. Fuel Pressure
6. Oil Pressure
7. Boost
8. Volt Meter - Since it would probably benefit you

I didn't put the list in any specific order. This is what I would like to end up with when I'm finished adding gauges. According to my Wife I really didn't need any of them (waste of money).