Changing Ignition Switch - Advice please
Changing Ignition Switch - Advice please
I have an 85 F150 with a flakey ignition switch. Sometimes either the gauges, horn, radio or even the engine ignition cut out until I jiggle the ignition key (bump it slightly toward the start position, and then let it drop back to run). I assume it is the electrical switch that is connected to the ignition lock. I've never changed one. It looks like I can get one from LMC Truck. Any tricks? Special tools required?
I appreciate any advice.
Terry
I appreciate any advice.
Terry
I have an 85 F150 with a flakey ignition switch. Sometimes either the gauges, horn, radio or even the engine ignition cut out until I jiggle the ignition key (bump it slightly toward the start position, and then let it drop back to run). I assume it is the electrical switch that is connected to the ignition lock. I've never changed one. It looks like I can get one from LMC Truck. Any tricks? Special tools required? I appreciate any advice. Terry
As for replacing it...
A: Disconnect the negative battery Cable.
B: Remove the steering column cover. On an Automatic, remove the shift indicator cable from column, to prevent breakage.
C: Lower the steering Column, by removing the lower steering column dash cover, the retaining bolts from the support bracket, and the screws from the lower column floor support.
D: Disconnect the wiring connector at the switch, then remove the two nuts holding the switch to the top of the column. Lift vertically to remove.
E: Make sure both the new switch, and the lock tumbler is in the lock position. On new switches there is a locking pin.
F: engage the actuator rod in the switch, then position the switch on the column, and install the nuts. Do not tighten them.
G: Adjust the switch. You want the rod lash to be in the "middle". Then tighten the nuts, top one first to prevent binding.
H: Remove the lock pin on the new switch. Connect the battery cable and make sure the truck starts. Check to see if your accessories work, Radio etc with the truck in the run position. If not adjust switch slightly. Also check to see if the truck turns off, as well as your accessories.
I: Raise the column and put everything back together.
J: Once again confirm if everything works the way it should. Starts in start, and that your accessories work in Run, and in accessory, and make sure the accessories do not work in the off position.
Hope this helps you out.
Explorer,
Thanks a lot. This helps me quite a bit. Why do you recommend getting the switch from the dealer or NAPA? Are the LMC truck parts suspect? I already ordered from LMC, but if the parts aren't dependable, I'll bite the bullet and go to NAPA. One of my pet peaves is to have to do a job twice....
Terry
Thanks a lot. This helps me quite a bit. Why do you recommend getting the switch from the dealer or NAPA? Are the LMC truck parts suspect? I already ordered from LMC, but if the parts aren't dependable, I'll bite the bullet and go to NAPA. One of my pet peaves is to have to do a job twice....
Terry
Explorer, Thanks a lot. This helps me quite a bit. Why do you recommend getting the switch from the dealer or NAPA? Are the LMC truck parts suspect? I already ordered from LMC, but if the parts aren't dependable, I'll bite the bullet and go to NAPA. One of my pet peaves is to have to do a job twice.... Terry
Also the Dealer parts are usually better quality, and I buy all my electronic components from Ford if I can. And stores like Napa usually have the stuff in stock so you don't have to wait for it to show up in the mail.
Just my opinion.
I think highly of LMC. Any negative comments could be from their competitors who are forum supporters, while LMC is not. I also tend to buy electrical parts elsewhere, only because I don't know where the aftermarket gets their parts.
Thanks again for the help guys. Since I already ordered a switch from LMC, I'll take a look at it and compare it to the stock switch in the truck. If it looks suspect, I'm off to NAPA.
Terry
Terry
$2-3 from the junkyard and it takes about 15-20 minutes to change.
I would also stick with OEM for electrical stuff, just not new because I'm too cheap.
I would also stick with OEM for electrical stuff, just not new because I'm too cheap.
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