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I'm looking at a 3" downpipe on Ebay, (the picture has a "Tymar Performance" watermark on it,) and am wondering what I ought to do after I get them. I would like to install the downpipe myself but then what do I do? Should I go ahead and just gut the cat and reinstall that back to the exhaust? I would like to go with 4" or 5" exhaust straight back from the downpipe, but I would have to have that done at a muffler shop so they can make the appropriate bends. I don't think I should drive the truck with downpipe only so I guess really the only choices I have are
1. Have a muffler shop install the downpipe and then the straight pipe ($$)
2. Install the downpipe myself, reinstall the cat and exhaust and drive to the muffler shop for the straight pipe.
You can buy 4" exhaust kits that you can install yourself with just hand tools.
You will need a sawzall to get the old DP off and then you will need to cut and bend the seam in the fire wall down out of the way. Takes a little time but not too hard to do. Don't take it to a shop if you think you can DIY. Definately buy an exhaust kit and install yourself.
I just recieved my 3-4" dp and 4" exhaust system from Tymar on Wednesday, $389 delivered to the door. Just need to make the time to tackle replacing the down pipe, the rest should be easy.
Man, I got to looking at the prices... I think what I might do for now is get the downpipe (around $100) gut the cat and get one of those muffler delete pipes (around $60) and just run that with my remaining stock exhaust for a while. Then I can think about whether or not I want to put stacks on.
Thing is, if install a DP Tuner in the interim, then won't I have to retune when I change the exhaust again?
Thing is, if install a DP Tuner in the interim, then won't I have to retune when I change the exhaust again?
Give them a call....I'm thinking with the mods you have nope. Great idea you have in terms of least cost modding your exhaust. I ran mine stock straight piped for some time and it was too loud for me especially when towing. switched to 4" from D Pipe and built a resonator. By gutting the kitten you are in effect making a resonator which will soften the exhaust note.....
1. The only muffler delete pipes I've found are MBRP and they say, "Must add to system for Muffler Delete capability" on one site and "MBRP Aluminized Muffler Delete Pipe for all MBRP Ford & GM single exhaust systems" on another. These statements lead me to believe that these units are intended only to work with a complete MBRP exhaust system and may not fit up with my modified OEM exhaust.
2. If I go with a cat delete instead of gutting the cat, will that be significantly louder? I don't want it to bee too loud.
If you are going to do a muffler delete then just go to the store and pick up a piece of pipe that is the correct size, it will probably be much cheaper. The MBRP pipe is going to be for thier exhaust systems and will be either 4" or 5" so they will be too large. I ran my truck with just the DP for a while but it does get annoying after a while, not to mention the gasses can get in the cab in traffic which ain't so much fun.
Yeah, that's what I thought that it would be to large because I was thinking that it was 4". I'm no welder, if I just get a piece of 3" pipe to replace the muffler, are there compression connectors that I can get so I can use clamps? Like I said, this will be temporary while I save up and decide if I want to go with stacks or a 4" or greater exhaust.
I'm looking at a 3" downpipe on Ebay, (the picture has a "Tymar Performance" watermark on it,) and am wondering what I ought to do after I get them. I would like to install the downpipe myself but then what do I do? Should I go ahead and just gut the cat and reinstall that back to the exhaust? I would like to go with 4" or 5" exhaust straight back from the downpipe, but I would have to have that done at a muffler shop so they can make the appropriate bends. I don't think I should drive the truck with downpipe only so I guess really the only choices I have are
1. Have a muffler shop install the downpipe and then the straight pipe ($$)
2. Install the downpipe myself, reinstall the cat and exhaust and drive to the muffler shop for the straight pipe.
Any other ideas?
Had a muffler shop quote me $400 for everything that does diesel mods .. down pipe, cat delete, high flow muffler with 4" exhaust,, installation included. Me being the knucklehead I am I decided to do it myself. Did I save a few bucks, yep but looking back my truck was down for a week and I now wish I just spend the $400 then out the door in about two hours. Working on exhaust system are a PIA unless you have all the proper tools.
Jude, i would just do the 3" dp for now. if you are going to get a 4" or greater side exhaust or stacks at some point then i would put the 3" dp in there and maybe gut the cat and that's all. After all the exhaust modifying i have done on my truck i can tell you it's much more worth it to just get the system you want the first time than to modify your stock exhaust "until" you get good exhaust b/c then you end up doing it twice or if your like me you do it 4 or 5 times before you get the system you wanted. that's a lot of time spent that is no longer useful to me b/c i'm not using that stuff anymore.
i have run with stock exhaust, stock exhaust with gutted cat, stock exhaust with gutted cat and muffler, stock dp-gutted cat-4" cat back, stock dp-gutted cat- 5" stacks, 3" dp-gutted cat-5" stacks, and now 3" dp- cat delete- 5" stacks. now i can see that except for the last 3 things i listed were all basically a waste of time and gained me almost nothing.
With all this typing i would get the 3" dp for now and maybe gut the cat and wait til i could get the exhaust i wanted. thats just my .02 and sorry for the long post. LoL
You could get inducers and reducers that would take you from 3" to 4" back to 3.5" or what ever combination but that will add up to additional cost for material that you probably couldn't reuse on another system. As far as clamps, spend the extra and use the band clamps, the ones that have the two bolts and are made out of sheet steel. The pinch or crimp clamps will dent the pipe and make future disassembly impossible without cutting the pipe.