Curious, and hopefully stupid question....

Because I use the Excursion (04 limited diesel w/ factory tow package) almost exclusively for towing a small enclosed trailer fairly long distances (200 to 1800 miles a weekend), when I have it aligned, should I place the equivilent of the trailer tongue weight in the back?

I'm not very familiar with how camber and toe change with front suspension compression (and lift) on the Ford. The trailer compresses the stock rear suspension about .75 inches sitting still, probably a couple inches in the highway bumps.

It's important to weight the race cars as they will be on the track (driver, fuel load, ballast, etc) when aligning and corner weighting them, which is what brings the question up in my mind now that new tires are going on the Ex.

The drivers front tire is showing a little more wear on the outside edge than the other tires (implying slight or dynamic positive camber), not horrible, but as long as the work is being done, I'd prefer to do it right....

Thanks,
Dale

 

If your Rig is a 4X4, then read below...

Ford Super-duty suspensions pre-IFS are not adjustable
for alignment. (except toe-in) Excursions never., they
didn't get IFS.

That is, without bending something.

Lucky you, one less thing to worry about.

IF you do have IFS....2WD? then read Monsta's post


2005 EXCURSION LIMITED-options (everything) equipped Eddie Bauer edition 4X4 PSD
4" FabTech lift/level, Bilstein $$ mono-gas shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer
Silverstar 9005 fog and H13ST headlights + wiring mod to run high beam and fogs together,
BFG 315/75/16 AT KO's on Factory Mags, 22" front and 18" rear rain-x wipers, Auto
-zone aftermarket voltage gauge, LANDYOT Generation II Radius Rods, EBC green brake pads,
Custom 140 amp surge-proof low RPM alternator, matched Duralast 1K CCA batteries
Ford factory hood insulator, Mojave Pin-Striping

 

2WD's have IFS.

What do you have? 2WD or 4WD?

If 2WD, I'd put the trailer on it. Although some racks won't be able to accommodate a vehicle that long (w/trailer I mean)

If 4WD, don't worry about it. Caster/camber don't change with suspension movement. Benefit of the solid axle.

 

I tow a trailer with an 1100-1200# tongue.

When I had my 4x4 aligned I did not worry about the family load or tongue load...so the truck was basically empty.

If you have 2WD you may have to worry...don't know enough about 2WD's...sorry...

My alignment is spot on when towing my 9000# 35' hitch to bumper trailer thru some pretty challenging roads and weather. I've only logged about 12,000 miles towing in two summers since I had her aligned in 2007...but I can tell you she tracks very straight.

Now what did I do different?

Well when I took her to the shop and they put her on the rack and find that the front camber is -1/4 and -1/8. Camber SPEC is +1/4 +/-3/4 or could be a range of +1° to -1/2°. So I was IN spec from the factory but on the LOW end. For a vehicle to track straight"er" a slightly positive camber is better...or so I have been lead to believe...

So I had my shop order a set of concentric ADJUSTABLE bushings that allows camber and caster adjustment...Ford does NOT allow much adjustment in the stock bushing...

After he installed the bushings he set me to the high end on both driver and passenger side as well as adjusted the alignment to get the wheel centered again...

Also the CASTER spec is HUGE...something like 5° or something or more...can't remember. Some on here have maxed out their caster while staying in camber specs with these bushings and it has reportedly really improved overall handling.

But you specifically asked about loading up your Ex for the alignment...in my case...I did not and have no ill effects but I do use a WD hitch and have a Roadmaster Active Suspension on the rear of my Ex which helps limit squat between both of those pieces of hardware.

Good luck...hope that helped some...
Joe.

 

Excellent points Monsta and Quiet_Man, I forget that the world sometimes needs 4wd....

I've got a 2wd, I suppose today will be a good day to create the sig file so I don't have to remember to say that again .

Thanks for the responses, I'll drop a five or 6 hundred pounds of ballast in the back before heading over to the shop in a couple minutes. I suspect camber goes positive as the rear sags/ front lifts dynamically. I could instead use the load distributing hitch, but it hardly seems worth it for such a small trailer.

Thanks again for the quick response, it world suck to tear up a couple tires on the first trip to Miami Homestead just for being lazy....

Regards,
Dale

 

There are shims on the top ball joint that can be changed and adjusted to set alignment. Most shops only want to set toe it but alignment can be set properly if the shims are adjusted/changed.

 

hmm... somewhat of a moot point so far, the Ex was a little bigger than this shop was equipped for...

The truck was longer than the alignment rack.... It was also pretty close to being too heavy for the two post lifts...

This shop supports our racing efforts and is geared toward the small car market, so we went ahead with the tire install and I'll be heading over to Sears later.

Thanks again for all the help and advice,
Dale

 

hey guys........as a side note and not to hi-jack, our trucks-at least mine seem to hold an alignment pretty well. I've got 50k on the truck and its never been aligned.........not that I haven't tried but the few times I've been in to do it it has always been on spec from the day it was new...........maybe I'm lucky?

about 15k of the 50k are towing

as far as the trailer & alignment.....what Monsta, X Hemi & quiet said

 

If you have one that is in alignment,, don't do any more alignments unless you wear out (tie rods, ball joints etc) a part or impact an object (broke something). These trucks will hold alignment. Most front end shops only set toe in and this is a "minor" tie rod end adjustment from a labor point. In most cases they don't set the caster or camber. If your caster/camber is set correct you don't need toe in alignments unless the tie rods wear out. (spring shackles included). If you have one that "needs" alignment and they don't set the caster (by shim change or adjustment) they are not doing a full alignment. So if you go to sears make sure you aren't just getting a "toe in" setting and drive out alignment.