gauges install question...
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Iowa
gauges install question...
When installing the boost gauge did you drill and tap a port in the intake or did you do the plastic T in the MAP line?
I assume the puprose of drilling the individual holes in the factory a-pillar is to keep the gauge mount cover tighter to the factory part for improved support.
Diesel manor dies not really say, but I assume the pyro gets drilled into the drivers side exhaust manifold?
I got the MBRP exhaust on the F350 late last night, have gauges and a DP tuner F6 to install today. Tomorrow the F350 and the goose goes out to pick up some equipment.
I assume the puprose of drilling the individual holes in the factory a-pillar is to keep the gauge mount cover tighter to the factory part for improved support.
Diesel manor dies not really say, but I assume the pyro gets drilled into the drivers side exhaust manifold?
I got the MBRP exhaust on the F350 late last night, have gauges and a DP tuner F6 to install today. Tomorrow the F350 and the goose goes out to pick up some equipment.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,708
Likes: 5
From: Kiowa CO
When installing the boost gauge did you drill and tap a port in the intake or did you do the plastic T in the MAP line?
You can do either. Mine is teed into the MAP line but you can also do the AIH delete and tap the plug for your boost line.
I assume the puprose of drilling the individual holes in the factory a-pillar is to keep the gauge mount cover tighter to the factory part for improved support. Yes.
Diesel manor dies not really say, but I assume the pyro gets drilled into the drivers side exhaust manifold? Yes, Driver's side is pre turbo.
I got the MBRP exhaust on the F350 late last night, have gauges and a DP tuner F6 to install today. Tomorrow the F350 and the goose goes out to pick up some equipment.
You can do either. Mine is teed into the MAP line but you can also do the AIH delete and tap the plug for your boost line.
I assume the puprose of drilling the individual holes in the factory a-pillar is to keep the gauge mount cover tighter to the factory part for improved support. Yes.
Diesel manor dies not really say, but I assume the pyro gets drilled into the drivers side exhaust manifold? Yes, Driver's side is pre turbo.
I got the MBRP exhaust on the F350 late last night, have gauges and a DP tuner F6 to install today. Tomorrow the F350 and the goose goes out to pick up some equipment.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Chris covered it, but to save some stress & time, you can tap the up-pipe instead. It's much easier to put it in the up-pipe and there's no chance of cracking the manifold (something that can happen if you rush it). Here's what mine looks like in the up-pipe.
Are you talking about the little holes up by the top? Then, yes you'll need those. I tried using double-stick tape to keep from drilling it, but it kept coming loose and the little push pegs hold it in place perfectly.
EDIT: One more thing... DO NOT run the tap all the way in!! The tap I used was about 3 threads out for a perfectly snug fit for the port adapter. What I did was run it in & out and kept test fitting the port until it was nice & snug against the pipe. If you don't go in far enough with the tap, the threads won't snug up against the pipe all the way. Go in too far, and it will be loose.
Oh, and I used the tee in the MAP line. No problems so far, but I do want to eventually delete the AIH and us it for the boost gauge tube.
Are you talking about the little holes up by the top? Then, yes you'll need those. I tried using double-stick tape to keep from drilling it, but it kept coming loose and the little push pegs hold it in place perfectly.
EDIT: One more thing... DO NOT run the tap all the way in!! The tap I used was about 3 threads out for a perfectly snug fit for the port adapter. What I did was run it in & out and kept test fitting the port until it was nice & snug against the pipe. If you don't go in far enough with the tap, the threads won't snug up against the pipe all the way. Go in too far, and it will be loose.
Oh, and I used the tee in the MAP line. No problems so far, but I do want to eventually delete the AIH and us it for the boost gauge tube.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Iowa
the crew is busy adding about 900 square feet onto the shop.... we'll have a service bay again. I have gauges and a MBRP 4 inch for the excursion for when I get the new part of the building closed up. I get to do it twice... only doing the DP on the F350 for the goose for now.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
the crew is busy adding about 900 square feet onto the shop.... we'll have a service bay again. I have gauges and a MBRP 4 inch for the excursion for when I get the new part of the building closed up. I get to do it twice... only doing the DP on the F350 for the goose for now.
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From: Iowa
Its a 30' gooseneck dual tandem... 22,500 GVWR. In the next few weeks there are 13 lots to be picked up at a location about 70 miles away....heaviest single item weighs 12,000 lbs. Its an OD grinding machine...the rest of the lots get lighter, but the od grinder is a load by itself. I figure the trailer with that on it will be pushing 20K.
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From: San Jose, CA
Chris covered it, but to save some stress & time, you can tap the up-pipe instead. It's much easier to put it in the up-pipe and there's no chance of cracking the manifold (something that can happen if you rush it). Here's what mine looks like in the up-pipe.
Are you talking about the little holes up by the top? Then, yes you'll need those. I tried using double-stick tape to keep from drilling it, but it kept coming loose and the little push pegs hold it in place perfectly.
EDIT: One more thing... DO NOT run the tap all the way in!! The tap I used was about 3 threads out for a perfectly snug fit for the port adapter. What I did was run it in & out and kept test fitting the port until it was nice & snug against the pipe. If you don't go in far enough with the tap, the threads won't snug up against the pipe all the way. Go in too far, and it will be loose.
Oh, and I used the tee in the MAP line. No problems so far, but I do want to eventually delete the AIH and us it for the boost gauge tube.
Are you talking about the little holes up by the top? Then, yes you'll need those. I tried using double-stick tape to keep from drilling it, but it kept coming loose and the little push pegs hold it in place perfectly.
EDIT: One more thing... DO NOT run the tap all the way in!! The tap I used was about 3 threads out for a perfectly snug fit for the port adapter. What I did was run it in & out and kept test fitting the port until it was nice & snug against the pipe. If you don't go in far enough with the tap, the threads won't snug up against the pipe all the way. Go in too far, and it will be loose.
Oh, and I used the tee in the MAP line. No problems so far, but I do want to eventually delete the AIH and us it for the boost gauge tube.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Agreed. You'll want to watch the tranny temps also. I'd highly suggest a bigger/aux cooler and aftermarket VB or shift kit if you pull like that regularly, too.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 179
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From: San Jose, CA
Nice. I really wasn't looking forward to drilling through the thick exhaust manifold when i install the gauges this weekend
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
I do suggest you use a nice sharp bit. I went right through it, then tapped it using just some WD40 for lube. I was worried about that part, and it was probably one of the easier steps of installing the gauges. 