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Brake issue!

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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 11:51 PM
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From: Toasty FLORIDA
Brake issue!

So today i went my friends house and I notice that my two front brakes we running hot, what would the cause be? Anti-lock or just worn down calipers?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 11:51 PM
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From: Toasty FLORIDA
Sorry little info on the truck 1988 F250 5.0 only see the "rear anti lock light come on when the truck starts!
 
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 12:31 AM
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neither could cause the brakes to run hot after just 3 stops from 45 mph to 0 mph could cause 3 degree burns. to test for draging brakes "whitch would cause hot(SMOKING)brakes" excelerate to 45 or 50 mph and put in neutral and as you slow down if stops as if brakes applyed then check push rod at pedal should have a small amount of free play before rod strikes master.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 05:23 AM
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There's a short rubber hose that is known to deteriorate w/age especially if exposed to excessive temps. Look ok visually, while the inner lining collapses on itself inside restricting inadequate pressure release for the calipers to retract completely. but usually doesn't occur simultaneously. poor maintenance w/excessive contaminant exposure but occurrence to both at the same time implies something more sys. oriented like a proportioning valve.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 09:02 AM
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the hoses are a good spot to check for the fronts-caliper may be hanging up-the rear light is a complete different animal-if your rear cylinders are frozen-it may put all the braking on the fronts-and may cause the light to come on!
 
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
There's a short rubber hose that is known to deteriorate w/age especially if exposed to excessive temps. Look ok visually, while the inner lining collapses on itself inside restricting inadequate pressure release for the calipers to retract completely. but usually doesn't occur simultaneously. poor maintenance w/excessive contaminant exposure but occurrence to both at the same time implies something more sys. oriented like a proportioning valve.
Then again re: Maint & contamin. mutual buildup inside the calapers along piston seals, or binding caliper slide joints/pins release inner pads but drag the outer. Return spring resilliency aint what they used to be. jack both and check for drag. If prop.valve ok I rebuild or rebuild all 4 actuators, replace those short rubber hoses. Flush system w/reg brake fluid until cristal clear, then replace that w/ synthetic. Far superior/less problematic.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 09:15 AM
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From: southern md
Originally Posted by ymeski56
Then again re: Maint & contamin. mutual buildup inside the calapers along piston seals, or binding caliper slide joints/pins release inner pads but drag the outer. Return spring resilliency aint what they used to be. jack both and check for drag. If prop.valve ok I rebuild or rebuild all 4 actuators, replace those short rubber hoses. Flush system w/reg brake fluid until cristal clear, then replace that w/ synthetic. Far superior/less problematic.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 03:51 PM
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From: Toasty FLORIDA
Hey, guys i had the fluid replaced a few weeks ago bleed the system could it just be that I have a 20 years old caliper in the truck?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 04:14 PM
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From: southern md
see above post-on that year truck it's rear anti lock only-as posted above-jack up truck front and spin wheel see if it spins free your good-to check rears-jack up both sides-make sure truck is secure-crank her up and drop in gear-hit brakes-if the tires keep turning as brakes applied the rears are toast-apply parking brake -wait for tires to stop and place it in park-replace the rear wheel cylinders-and check the rest of brakes out while your in there!
been there done the same thing!
 
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