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neither could cause the brakes to run hot after just 3 stops from 45 mph to 0 mph could cause 3 degree burns. to test for draging brakes "whitch would cause hot(SMOKING)brakes" excelerate to 45 or 50 mph and put in neutral and as you slow down if stops as if brakes applyed then check push rod at pedal should have a small amount of free play before rod strikes master.
There's a short rubber hose that is known to deteriorate w/age especially if exposed to excessive temps. Look ok visually, while the inner lining collapses on itself inside restricting inadequate pressure release for the calipers to retract completely. but usually doesn't occur simultaneously. poor maintenance w/excessive contaminant exposure but occurrence to both at the same time implies something more sys. oriented like a proportioning valve.
the hoses are a good spot to check for the fronts-caliper may be hanging up-the rear light is a complete different animal-if your rear cylinders are frozen-it may put all the braking on the fronts-and may cause the light to come on!
There's a short rubber hose that is known to deteriorate w/age especially if exposed to excessive temps. Look ok visually, while the inner lining collapses on itself inside restricting inadequate pressure release for the calipers to retract completely. but usually doesn't occur simultaneously. poor maintenance w/excessive contaminant exposure but occurrence to both at the same time implies something more sys. oriented like a proportioning valve.
Then again re: Maint & contamin. mutual buildup inside the calapers along piston seals, or binding caliper slide joints/pins release inner pads but drag the outer. Return spring resilliency aint what they used to be. jack both and check for drag. If prop.valve ok I rebuild or rebuild all 4 actuators, replace those short rubber hoses. Flush system w/reg brake fluid until cristal clear, then replace that w/ synthetic. Far superior/less problematic.
Then again re: Maint & contamin. mutual buildup inside the calapers along piston seals, or binding caliper slide joints/pins release inner pads but drag the outer. Return spring resilliency aint what they used to be. jack both and check for drag. If prop.valve ok I rebuild or rebuild all 4 actuators, replace those short rubber hoses. Flush system w/reg brake fluid until cristal clear, then replace that w/ synthetic. Far superior/less problematic.
see above post-on that year truck it's rear anti lock only-as posted above-jack up truck front and spin wheel see if it spins free your good-to check rears-jack up both sides-make sure truck is secure-crank her up and drop in gear-hit brakes-if the tires keep turning as brakes applied the rears are toast-apply parking brake -wait for tires to stop and place it in park-replace the rear wheel cylinders-and check the rest of brakes out while your in there!
been there done the same thing!