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I'm looking into getting one of their free spin kits for my 2000 F-250.I know it's a big dollar item but I would rather be safe than sorry.Does anybody have any experience with these?Thanks for any replies.
Hands down the best money you can spend on a SD. Getting rid of the unit bearings and the ESOF lockouts (if equiped, or even if it is not) is worth its weight in gold.
First maintenance when you can service the bearings really puts a smile on your face.
Seems like a bunch of money at first, but is really worth it in the end.
Great investment.
Does this kit widen the stance of the front end? I only ask because I used to have a jeep cherokee and the kit similar to this kicked each side out 3/4 of an inch?
Does this kit widen the stance of the front end? I only ask because I used to have a jeep cherokee and the kit similar to this kicked each side out 3/4 of an inch?
In all the research
I've done nobody ever mentioned that it widened the front end.
The only part that is wider is the hubs. They will stick out approx. 2". If you have aftermarket wheel that are 9-10" wide no problem. I have run the Dynatrac freespin kit with my stock wheels for the last 20,000 miles. The wheels and tires are in the same place in the wheel well as the stock set-up.
Due to a right front wheel bearing failure in October '08, I faced a similar decision. I went with the Dynatrac Free Spin System. I went all out and got their DynaLoc hubs, changed out my upper & lower ball joints since I was in there, and replaced my rotors & brakes with Powerslot Cyro Rotors & Hawk LTS pads.
I really believe I can tell the difference in the ride; the original bearing was so bad I had metal shavings everywhere on the inside of the hub unit. The left side was smooth and "felt solid", the right side was loose and sloppy and made a nice metal grinding sound.
Just like it's been said on FTE previous, when the bearing went bad, it went fast. Probably was going out for a couple weeks before it got bad enough for me to hear it over my 7.3
If you can afford it, go for the Free Spin; I got mine directly from Dynatrac. The OEM bearings are sealed and cost approximately $375 a piece. V/r Les
Due to a right front wheel bearing failure in October '08, I faced a similar decision. I went with the Dynatrac Free Spin System. I went all out and got their DynaLoc hubs, changed out my upper & lower ball joints since I was in there, and replaced my rotors & brakes with Powerslot Cyro Rotors & Hawk LTS pads.
I really believe I can tell the difference in the ride; the original bearing was so bad I had metal shavings everywhere on the inside of the hub unit. The left side was smooth and "felt solid", the right side was loose and sloppy and made a nice metal grinding sound.
Just like it's been said on FTE previous, when the bearing went bad, it went fast. Probably was going out for a couple weeks before it got bad enough for me to hear it over my 7.3
If you can afford it, go for the Free Spin; I got mine directly from Dynatrac. The OEM bearings are sealed and cost approximately $375 a piece. V/r Les
What all came with the kit? I am going to do ball joints as well.Is there anything else I should change while it's apart? Thanks.
I would opt for the u-joints that connect the outer and inner shafts as well has the studs that hold the spindle to the knuckle.
Also, be sure to specify which year truck you have so that you get sent the correct wheel studs.
YEP, I Agree! I changed everything, including the axle u-joints (I couldn't believe the difference in feel between the old OEM u-joints and the new Spicers. I was torn between the Moogs and Dana Spicers from NAPA ( I chose NAPA's because of the lifetime guarantee and a NAPA parts store is local and I like to support it. I even changed the seals that go on the new 35mm output axles (they don't come with the Free Spin Kit).
P.S. Wheel studs come with the kit, but I got new hub assembly studs instead of removing the old and reuses them. Les
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