Due to the inexpensiveness of the 99 & newer super duty aluminum wheels, I wonder if it's possible to convert a Dana 60 to the metric pattern and also a Sterling 10.25 (donor truck a 95 F250) by swapping out the drums/rotors? I guess the question comes down to whether a newer rotor/drum will fit on the older axles. Maybe NumberDummy or another parts guy would know? I realize if the rotors/drums are not worn out, you would be lucky to break even switching them out, but let's assume they are worn out and have to be replaced anyway. The vehicle in question is a 79 F350 4x4, Dana 60 front, Sterling 10.25 rear. I know I might offend some purists by tinkering with a stock truck, but I think I have avoided the monsterism syndrome, i.e. the truck doesn't have an 8" lift kit or a dually setup using an 80s era bed or something. Thanks.

 

it would probably be cheaper to get the wheels re-drilled to the old lug pattern. Any compitant rim shop can do it for $25-$40 per wheel. And like you said - with the cheap cost of these wheels you can buy the wheels, have them all drilled, and still have a great looking wheel for cheap.

I've got a set of the 5 spoke wheels off an excursion that were already drilled and sleeved for sale. I don't really care for them on my turck - even though everybody else says they look good. If you want I can post pics so you can see what it would look like.

 

Chase,
I am curious! post pics!!

 

image is in the gallery. It's not a great pic, but it's the only one I had before I sent the setup to my buddy to take the tires off the wheels.

 

Chase is the man when it comes to this modification. Still have to remind him to get rid of his "gazillion" sets of wheels that he has aquired for his sweet crew cab in the last few months.
But all kidding aside, I wanted to mention that while later model wheels can be used, the offset was changed considerably after 05, and even though they can be modified to fit (without adapters) they will rub the front springs (4x4) at full lock.
Bearings like the positive offset, but later model wheels could present a little problem with slightly larger diameter tires.

 

Those look GREAT on there, wish I was nearby, I would take them off your hands.

 

75F350, and many others liked um too and told me to just run them, but I am more partial to the 8 hole alcoa design.

If you like the look - the start searching the classifieds. I have found sets of 4 for $100 or less, and I'm sure you can too if you are a little patient (check the local paper, craigslist.com ,etc.). If you get s set for under $100 and spend $25-30 on each wheel for drilling you can have a nice looking STRONG set of wheels for $250 or so...

 

No one has chimed in on the possibility I mentioned, only to re-drill the wheels which I understand is an easier and probably less costly option. Not understanding this process, do they simply drill out the hole and press in a sleeve and then re-drill it? The bolt patterns must be pretty close then. Does this weaken the wheel much? If it is possible to swap out the rotors/drums/etc. to newer and if they are in need of replacement anyway, wouldn't that work as well?

 

I have no clue on the swapping of rotors etc. so I just ignored that part. 75F350 might know, so we'll see if he chimes in again.

As far as the wheel drilling goes - our trucks are 8 x 6.5" lug pattern which is 8x165mm. The new trucks are 8x170mm - therefore there is only 5mm (half a cm) or about 0.2" difference in the bolt circle. 0.2 is not much over a 6.5" spread.

What the rim shop will do is slightly drill out the existing holes and press in a steel sleeve. The steel sleeves have a tapered/conical seat for the use of the older style lug nuts our truck use (non hubcentric wheels).

I'm sure this might wheaken the wheel a little bit, but I'd run the stock wheels done like this WAAAAAY before I would run a cast wheel that came with the correct pattern from the manufacturer. The stock wheels in question are forged and therefore much stronger than a cast wheel.
For 99% of the people this is no big deal, but with the abuse my truck see (or will see in muttly's case) I need the assurance of a strong wheel. I've seen more than 1 case of a cast wheel shattering on a hard impact in the dirt, leaving a mess of a roll to deal with afterwards. A forged wheel will bend whereas a cast wheel will break/shatter...

 

Considering the wheel studs are attached to the axle, I would say that you should have the wheels re-drilled or go with the whole SD axle. The rotors and drums just slip over the axle and studs.

 

I thought the studs were part of the hubs on free-floating axles? If so, then you would have to replace the hubs from a super-duty onto the older axles along with the rotors/drums. This would mean a fair bit of labor, so it is doubtfully worth it unless you are rebuilding the axles anyway, but it seemed an intriguing possibility since the Dana 60 and Sterling carried over into the 99 and newer trucks. If the hubs are different, then I guess you couldn't make the switch. I use my trucks for snow plowing and I feel a little uneasy about drilling and sleaving the wheels. I don't use cast wheels, either go with the stock steel or forged aluminum. Alcoa does make some nice wheels that will fit, they are just harder to find and pricier, but that's probably what I'll do. Thanks for the input on this question and not making me feel too stupid for asking it

 

Just to add a little, and at least answer your question with regards to the swap of just the hubs.
It will not work at all. The front hubs on the SD axles do not even use a serviceable Timken bearing(s), instead they use a sealed "unit bearing" that has a completely different spindle, and hub.
Now Dynatrac does make a standard pattern hub for the later model trucks, but not the opposite. Guess there is not a demand for this. Not that your idea is a bad one, probably due to optional ways to get these wheels on VS demand and considering cost, it does not make the swap a justufiable one.
The same is true for the rear axle, as the 10.5" FF Sterling is a diferent animal than the Dana axle, and the hubs do not interchange here either.
Now there still is another option, and while it may not seem quite right, chevy, and dodge wheels still have the 8 x 6.5" pattern. They will require a little work to the center (very little) but they will bolt up.
Probably catch some heat for mentioning anything from the other manufacturers, but I have seen plenty of early trucks with late model chebby wheels, and some have pulled it off with success.
Good luck, and maybe try a little more research on the steel insert option. Still keeps the wheel very strong. I would not hesitate to run a set.

 

75F350, that was going to be my next post...


Its a heck of a lot easier to just buy the right wheels to begin with... trying to save a penny costs you a dollar. You can get nice steel wheels from $40 on up and aluminum from $90 on up. The factory wheels are a lot sturdier than any aftermarket wheel, and the factory does have some nice designs, redrilling does not weaken the wheel in any way, as long as it is done correctly.

 

I forgot about the unit bearings on the newer axles. It's funny - I hear nothing but bad things about them for the big trucks, but some guys are re-drilling the hubs and using them to make full floaters out of 9" for the back of their rangers. I guess the rangers are small enough that the strength isn't an issue like it is on the big dogs!

 

Anyone have a picture of a redrilled superduty wheel to fit the earlier trucks? A picture would be worth a thousand words. ;-) I have been offered a couple sets of super duty wheels for free if I want them... I have a drill press, maybe I can drill them myself since I can't find a local shop that wants to....... Just trying to get an idea what really happens and I'm still a bit confused. Thanks!